When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I request help to check the wiring harness for oxygen sensors B1S1 (pre-cat) and B1S2 (post-cat) on a 2006 CRV K24Z1. Continuity testing was done using information from YouTube and other forums. Testing was done by using a test light and connecting to the battery positive or battery negative, key off/key on/engine on, and touching the pin for the wire being tested. A light shows the continuity of the wire from battery to the sensor wire connector at the sensor. No light shows a short or break in the harness wiring.
I cannot find information on wiring harness testing on this forum for a 2006 CRV or the wire colors for a 2006 CRV from the battery to the sensor wiring harness at the sensor connector. Attached below is the wiring harness and sensor connector near the catalytic converter. A wiring diagram would help. I will not meet the 5 days requirement until April 19th so can't buy a wiring diagram from this forum yet, if available. I request the heater +, heater -, signal + and signal - be reviewed and corrections provided; or a page from the wiring diagram including from the ECM to the sensors and from the sensors to the battery.
If the ECM harness is removed and reconnected, will the VIN, immobilizer code and CKP pattern clear/CKP pattern learn steps 14 to 20 be necessary? I assume no since the page references the replacement of the ECM/PCM. Thanks for your time.
Your assumption would be correct. That's for a whole new PCM. Disconnecting your battery would be similar to disconnecting it anyways - and we don't need the VIN/immobilizer key every time we do that thankfully.
I actually put a new A/F sensor in my 2002 CRV a month or so ago. A pretty cool $180. Fixed my engine light and fuel mileage though.
Thanks again Smackin. Will be testing the wiring harnesses today.
I did notice the A/F sensor may have been replaced on my 06 CRV. The A/F sensor signal ground is blue and not light green as in the wiring diagram. And looks much newer than the post cat sensor. The dealership most likely replaced the Honda sensor with a Denso sensor. The OEM sensor may have been damaged when replacing a torque converter. I think this called mechanic's error. And may have caused the wiring harness problem I am diagnosing. The warranty is long past the six month warranty. Long way to say thanks.
Well a full day of identifying wire colors and pin locations was a bust. I thought this would be easy. Match up wire colors to the pin location from the PGM/FI wiring diagram.
I did find a pin-out for what someone says is for a 2006 Honda CRV. The connectors A and E from this pin-out do not match the colors and pin locations from my CRV and the PGM/FI wiring diagram . And connectors A and E from this pin-out are not the same shape, blank spaces and empty pins as my CRV.
I request a pin-out for the 2006 CRV EX AWD and a picture showing the location of connectors A and E. I will continue to look for the pin-out and picture but not not confident in obtaining correct info. I appreciate your help.
Honda's pin numbering depends on whether they are the female or male: Female cavity terminal is from the wire side, Male is from the terminal pin side.
For the harness connectors to the ECM/PCM, those are female connectors, so, the numbering is from the wire side.
Thanks tech8. I was looking at the wrong connector. The info you provided is thorough and what I need to complete ECM/PCM wiring diagnostics.
I appreciate your time to respond to my request. I have learned several things about sensors and wiring conventions since joining HondaTech and my trial period expires today. Great forums and knowledgeable members.
I finished the wiring testing today. The wires from the A/F and oxygen sensors to the ECM/PCM, and wires from the A/F and oxygen sensors to A/F fuel relay show a resistance in the range of 0.3 to 1.4 ohms. So no problem with these wires.
The resistance value for the wire (brown/yellow) going to the sensor ground (LG3) is OL on my Fluke 115 which means open circuit. The brown/yellow wire originates (?) with the symbol of a cylinder with a wire through it. What does this represent? This may be why I was not able to properly test this wire. I have attached the PGM/FI System wiring diagram with these symbols shown in red. How can this wire be properly tested?
I also found a third fuse/relay box. This Auxiliary Fuse/Relay box is located next to the underhood fuse/relay box and contains three fuses and two relays. I have attached a diagram of the auxiliary box. The A/F sensor fuse and relay are contained here. The underdash fuse #6 powers the power windows and not the A/F relay. FYI
Thanks again tech8 and Smackin. I couldn't have got this done without your help.
Those represents RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) shielding around a wire. Some wires are braided to shield the signal going to the ECM/PCM from interference from noise created by other systems such as an ignition system. The shielding is grounded.
I finished the wiring testing today. The wires from the A/F and oxygen sensors to the ECM/PCM, and wires from the A/F and oxygen sensors to A/F fuel relay show a resistance in the range of 0.3 to 1.4 ohms. So no problem with these wires.
The resistance value for the wire (brown/yellow) going to the sensor ground (LG3) is OL on my Fluke 115 which means open circuit. The brown/yellow wire originates (?) with the symbol of a cylinder with a wire through it. What does this represent? This may be why I was not able to properly test this wire. I have attached the PGM/FI System wiring diagram with these symbols shown in red. How can this wire be properly tested?
I also found a third fuse/relay box. This Auxiliary Fuse/Relay box is located next to the underhood fuse/relay box and contains three fuses and two relays. I have attached a diagram of the auxiliary box. The A/F sensor fuse and relay are contained here. The underdash fuse #6 powers the power windows and not the A/F relay. FYI
Thanks again tech8 and Smackin. I couldn't have got this done without your help.
First of all, I wish you all the best for your efforts. I want your help with a Honda CR-V 2005 2.4 letter. I want to know how to verify the voltage value coming from the battery to the upper oxygen sensor connection, which is 12 volts, and how to test it with a voltmeter from the category that goes to the sensor under the car. Is it tested by placing the ignition key in the second position?
Thanks for All