I have a unique no-start problem where I hear the fuel pump kick on when in the 2nd position (before crank) and stay on but don't hear the click from the main relay. I replaced the main relay and the problem persisted. It went from running and starting totally fine to just cranks and cranks. the CEL comes on and stays on but I hook my OBD2 scanner up and get "no link" which seems very odd. I also noticed that as I sat in the driver seat frustrated as to what the heck is going on, I set my hand on the gear shifter and right away I hear the fuel pump stop and relay click to which it started right up. So I shut it off and tried to start it again and back to just cranking with the fuel pump still on and relay did not click. It hasn't started since. One more observation was that I noticed there was a lot of play in the ignition lock cylinder which I partially blamed on the fact that it's my daughters car and she had everything but the kitchen sink dangling from these keys. I had a new key cut and still same problem. I'm not an electrician but I think it's something electrical. Any help I could receive would be greatly appreciated.

 

I believe you are correct and have an electrical issue. I would check out the grounds and power wires at the ecu and see if all there all required for proper function of ecu--other possibliltiy is a bad ecu. If It was an obd-1 I could provide info on ground pins(4) and power pins to the ecu but obd-2b or even obd-2a I have not had to check or know what pins. An helms(factory) electircal troubleshooting manual would be required or maybe someone else or the internet has the info you need

 

So I got around to having a new key cut and after hooking the battery up to another car (was worn down after trying to crank so much over the past few days) i put the new key in and it, turned to 2nd position, heard the fuel pump kick on and then back off, click from the relay and boom, it started right up. I let it run for 15 mins or so to charge the battery and it's been starting up on its own just fine. I guess my question at this point is: with having a new key cut and that's the only difference to the car at this point, does that really prove that it was the ignition lock cylinder? Like a bad tumbler in the mechanism and the new key manages to make it work but I feel that'll be temporary in the long run. I feel like it does prove it but I figured I'd update the post and see what y'all think. Thx in advance!