I have a really bad problem with my current car ( 1998 Honda civic lx) it was running fine for a while but all of a sudden it now has a random misfire. It's really bad whenever I accelerate fast or go from standstill to trying to flow with traffic (yes it's hard to get to 30) I've already changed my oil and my spark plug, spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, and I've added a new intake filter. I've also listened to the fuel injectors with a flat head and they are all making that clicking noise. Anyone got any ideas to what it could be? For anyone who could possibly help in person I live in Jonesboro Arkansas.

 

Get yourself an HE spark plug tester and check to see your spark is a bright white/blue not a yellow/orange color.

Also do a compression test.

 

I can't do the tests rn sadly, I just called 3 different autozones and a couple oriellys and none of them allowed me to borrow a spark plug tester or a compression tester, I'm gonna run down to Walmart and buy one and return it here in a little though

 

Scanned my engine :/

 

IMO the one that stands (based on your symptoms) out to start with is the Fuel Tank pressure system circuit. I would put a fuel pressure gauge on it especially one that has a bleed button with line, Check pressure to see if in specs at idle and then when you throttle up(gun the throttle) it should not drop no more than 5 psi. After this I would get a container (not styrofoam) and place it on the side not near any hot components-especially exhaust place the bleed line in it press the button and keep it pressed and with the car idling and then gunning it the car should not die--if it dies then your fuel pump is bad, Or just get another fuel pump.
Oh by the way you should check that you have a good power (enough to light a headlight bulb) on the power going to the fuel pump and a good ground--ideally less than .1V or in other words 100 mv

 

Do you think a bad fuel pump would be not giving the car enough gas therefore it misfiring? Is that a possibility?

 

Yes by all means or the injectors not spraying enough fuel i.e clogged oh forgot the fuel filter can also limit amount of fuel going to injectors be an issue.The fuel pressure gauge would be a good quide

 

Where did you buy the parts you replaced?

 

Autozone?

 

Ok chances are good that the parts are ok

 

If you can get a scanner with live data on it check to see if the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor to see if it reads properly when engine is cold as in reading close to outside temperature. And if it changes as it heats up when engine is running or has been running for a while just something to look at--yeah it can cause misfires

 

If you do get a scanner with live data on it monitor the Oxygen Sensor sensor 1 and make sure it cycles above and below .4v and not fixed while the S2 should be not fluctuating that much more of a steady voltage although this one will not impact driveablilty like the S1 does

 

I've went to a couple of good mechanics and got quotes and tests done, they all mentioned something called back pressure and they all said my catalytic converter is causing back pressure and that's whats causing my random misfire problem with the no acceleration or power, anyways I'm thinking of buying this. Is it smart?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/STAINLESS-R...Cclp%3A2334524

 

I don't have a scanner rn but whenever I get extra money I'll plan on buying one

 

hold up here, slow down and stop throwing money at the car. look at how many systems are affected at the moment, you have 5 separate systems all throwing codes. Out of that 5 systems, what system is throwing the most codes? Ignition is. PO3$$ is ignition, 3followed by the messed up cylinder number, PO300 means that all cylinders are having a problem PO1399 is a honda code that just means something is screwed up with all the spark plugs. You did a new distributor cap/rotor/wires and plugs and no change. So you know that the igntion is good. Did the car run ok before all this began? I bet it did., if it ran fine before, then Im willing to bet that the fuel pump is ok. So that leaves us with Air (we have 2 out of the three needed for an engine to run, gas and spark) Lets look for AIR, Inside the IAC valve (Idle AIR Control) there is a little valve that moves as the engine runs, It just spins back and forth as the engine revs up and down. If that valve gets just the most minute piece of gunk on it, it jams or becomes notchy when it moves, it HAS to move smoothly. Take off the IAC and check it. Even it it does move freely, clean it with carb cleaner and a wire brush, OOORRRR clean it with a wire wheel. Im talking scrub the damn thing like you hate it, put it back on DONT reset the codes and take it for a drive. If the car still drives like crap then start checking other stuff.
How do I know this, Because I did the same thing your going thru. Spent way too much money chasing my tail.
Good luck, let us know how it goes