hi all, thanks in advance for the help.

so my 2012 CRV (AWD model) was making some weird noise in the rear while i was driving. thought it was the wheel bearing. bought it to the mechanic and they said the rear is fine; nothing is wrong...

however; your Right Front CV axle is making noise when. they had it up on the hoist and ran it.

anyway, they listed parts:

44500-T0A-A00 shaft assy., half (AT)
44500-T0A-A00 CV intermediate shaft-front.

this is the first major-ish fix i am attempting. i have air tools, impact gun, etc... i am within walking distance from work, so if i screw this up, it's not big deal.

where is a DYi / How to? what else do i need? any tips, advice, etc... appreciate it.

 

A noise from the rear end is usually contaminated fluid... change it and problem solved. The noise can sound like a failed bearing or diff. when corner at low speed. It can be very loud.


For front axles , I always use jobber ones from Rock Auto. No issues and they are warranted. Honda axles are spendy and needlessly so.
A failed CV joint will be noisey when the axle is in a turned for cornering . A failed tripod joint will be noisey under load of accell.

 

On you tube there's allot of how to vids on this. Its not difficult but you should buy a ball joint separator to make it easier. You can hammer the control arm but its not going to come easy that way. Basically need to jack up the vehicle, remove the wheel, disconnect the sway bar link if you can just to make it easier but you don't have to if you have a long pry bar you can force the control arm down once the ball joint is removed. I have also just removed the stabilizer bar mounts and let the bar hang to give more ease of movement to the control arm.
when you're using a ball joint separator to press the ball joint up through the control arm be careful not to squish the threaded end of the ball joint where the holes are drilled for the cotter pin. It takes some Force to pop this ball joint out of the control arm and it's entirely possible to ruin that threaded end of the ball joint. If you do do that you'll have to replace the ball joint. What I usually do is I take the nut off the ball joint and then turn it around so that the castle end is going up and thread the nut back on to the ball joint just enough so that it is flush with the end of the threads. And then when I use the ball joint separator the nut will hold the threads together and keep the threaded end from getting crushed. You just need to pop it loose and using the ball joint separator it will pop loose and then you might have to just pry a bit afterwards because the tension in the control arm bushings will kind of pull it together slightly but once you have the ball joint separated it'll make a large pop noise and you'll know that it's done.
There's vids on YouTube on using these separators. Don't try a pickle fork separator on it . You will rip the grease boot and need to replace the ball joint.
You will need a 36mm socket and an impact gun or a long bar to take the axle nut off. .

 

Also get a rubber bungie cord to hold the strut and caliper out of your way when you separate the ball joint and then push the axle stub out the hub.. it will make it less frustrating.

 

In some youtube vids, they will remove the whole knuckle, rotor and all, by disconnecting the ball joint and unbolting the strut from the knuckle. You can if you want but again its not neccessary to unbolt the strut. If you do this, those are big nuts and bolts and they will need to be torqued down after. You could find your alignment out ( camber) a tiny but but its not likely much as the camber is not adjusted by these bolts as they are set in place ( non adjustable).
Be careful not to pull hard or damage the ABS lead. It will be a B to replace as yhe sensor usually is stuck in the knuckle for life from the tiniest amount of corrosion.

If I have to remove the knuckle, say to replace the ball joint for example, I will simply unplug the ABS sensor harness at the frame by removing the 10 millimetre bolt that holds the bracket in place and disconnecting the connector and removing the knuckle with the wire intact being careful not to put it under any stress

 

Also, you don't replace the intermediate shaft on the RH side. You only need to replace the actual constant velocity joint axle or the half shaft with the tripod joint inner and the CV joint outer. The intermediate shaft is just a stub that extends from the differential to keep the LH and RH shafts at sort of an equal length.. It's not necessary to replace the intermediate shaft unless it's damaged or the bearing is worn out.




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