1994 Civic EX coupe

I removed the old engine and transmission.

Old S20 transmission ready to be moved.

Old D16Z6 ready to be given to a friend.

This is the start of what will be a long project that I estimate will take a year or two to finish, But the car should be driving with the b18b swap in the next month or so. I plan on ordering the B18B complete swap from HondaMotorsOnline in the next week or two. I haven't found one locally. However if anyone has something similar, a B series swap, feel free to chime in, as I might be interested. I contemplated just getting the D16z6 rebuilt, but for various reasons including the cost of rebuilding is the same as rebuilding a b series, but the d series has less potential, I have chosen to do the B series swap. Only unless someone already has a good condition built d series for a low price would I consider it.
The next part, in the summer, will be to add a custom turbo kit with either a T3/T4 or T3/60-1 turbo, ramhorn exhaust manifold, and all the rest of the turbo parts.
After that I'll redo the fuel system and most likely go with Hondata or equivalent.
Once its up and driving with the turbo system on low boost, I'll add a clutch, flywheel, maybe a limited slip differential( or maybe add this later).
Then about a year from now I'm planning on rebuilding the engine with forged internals, and possibly sleeves. Then I'll retune using 116 octane or other high octane race gas and try to get to 500whp.

I'm going to do the engine swap in the next few weeks here, and if anyone has good quality swap for a reasonable price I might be interested. The turbo will be later on, probably this summer, so I'm not in the market to purchase any turbo pars.
I'll update this thread as I go to show the progress of the build. And I'm sure I'll have some questions along the way. Any feedback or advice is appreciated. This will be my 3rd turbocharged Civic, and I've owned bunches of other Hondas over the years.

 

Sounds like a plan! Funny, I just traded my built Z6 for a stock GSR. Lol! Looking forward to the progress here as well. This will also be my first boosted B so, we'll see how it goes.
What other boosted setups you run before? D-series?

 

I’ve done a B18B Garrett T3/TO4E before on a stock engine. I miss that car, that’s why I want to do a similar set up, but eventually build the engine this time.
I’ve also done a H22 with a Precision SC61 which was a lot of fun. I made 300whp with Hondata. That car had lots of wheel hop though and was front heavy, so I’m staying away from the H series, although it had lots of power in a strait line.
So this will be my second B18B turbo set up.
And this is a second car. I have something else as a daily driver, so I don’t have to worry about using it to get around daily. It will just be a fun project car...

 

Well, I called Hmotorsonline to order the swap, and they are out of both the OBD-1 B18B and OBD-1 B16... They only have OBD-2 swaps right now, and told me to call back in 3-4 weeks, however these OBD-1 engine swaps are rare, and might not be available.
So now I'm thinking of just building the D16Z6 for boost with forged internals, valve train, and Golden Eagle (or other brand) sleeves. The goal would be the same: 500hp on race gas.

I've read and searched about the D series having head gasket issues above 400hp, but then, I also see lots of high horsepower D series.
I know the B series are more durable, but if the D is sleeved and built/machined correctly, then it should hold the power, right? Plus, stock the B18B only has 13 more horsepower than the D16Z6, so I think I might be wasting my time waiting weeks and spending $2,400 on a swap when I already have the D16Z6.
Are there any reasons why I shouldn't just go ahead and build the D16Z6 to achieve this goal?
I'm about to start getting the D16Z6 built unless there is a reason it wouldn't produce the 500hp.

 

Where's your thread?

 

Txdragon's thread is:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced...-side-3354164/

 

What have you done with the Z6 already? 500whp can be achieved, although not cheap.. I was about 6k into the build total and just knocking on the door of 400whp. Head lift over 400 is hit or miss, I had no issues or signs. I don't have the GSR done yet so I can't say how it is going to be with what I already have. Should be ordering the turbo mani in a couple days and hopefully have all that here in about a month.

 

You can get close to 400HP on a B18B turbo setup with rods, pistons and a reputable turbo. My old LS-t made about 380 and it was fun running against bikes and V8s on the highway. This was 16yrs ago...... haha

 

Right now there aren't any modifications to the Z6 already. I think it should cost around $6k realistically by the time I include machine work, labor, new valves/valvesprings, pistons/rods, and sleeves, not including turbo parts. Which is a lot of money, but I think the car will hold its value and should last for a long time. So I would start by building it, then try not to take the engine out after that, instead of doing it little by little.
That's good you think 500hp is doable. Headlift is the only issue I've heard of, but with a good deck on the block, good multi-layer head gasket, decreased ignition timing, and good headstuds, hopefully it can be avoided. I'm thinking I'll go ahead and do the build. If I don't reach 500hp, I'll still be satisfied with less.

NVturbo- I wanted the b18b, but there isn't much available in the OBD-1 swaps. And I don't want to do OBD-2 in a '94 civic.

 

Sleeves won't be necessary so, that'll save you about 12-1400 bucks. I BEAT THE **** out of mine on 76mm bore, stock sleeves and it's doing well still. JEProseal headgasket is recommended. Kinda wonky at the dowel holes but will go on with a little... Encouragement... ID1050X injectors, Walbro 450 or 525 pump (I run the 525), GOOD fpr, Aeromotive is recommended, fuel rail; AEM or golden eagle recommended, rods and pistons I ran CP and skunk2. Lots of good options for these here just DO NOT go vitara. Intake manifold and larger tb.. Cam was comp 59300 with their recommended springs. Valves are not really needed but a worthy addition. Look to Ferrea 6000 here, don't get the 5000 (flat faced), those have a history of breaking. Good turbo.. I went with Garrett GTW3476 and was teetering on that 400whp mark at 26psi. Had my clutch been rated for better power , (only had an Action stage 3), I'd have seen it no problem. Go with comp clutch stage 4, ACT HC5-XTG6, or clutch master FX400.

 

My Z6 would easily be a 500 whp car if I would ditch the AC and change manifolds and turbos. But it's a street car, so I'm good.

I agree with the JE Proseal head gasket, good surfaces, and being somewhat conservative on timing to prevent head lift. You can run the MazdaSpeed L19 head studs (they are 10mm, just like the Z6), though I think you may have to have the head machined to fit the larger diameter nut. Or, you can have your block and head modified to take the SRT4 studs, which are 11mm (this is what I did).

You *can* make 500 whp on stock sleeves, but I'd be wanting CSS or sleeves by that point. If you are already at 75.5mm on stock sleeves, I'd probably go with sleeves, as you'll have to bump up to 76mm with CSS and you're starting to get thin at that point. You'd probably be OK, but that's just my personal opinion/preference.

^ Txdragon has lots of good suggestions above.

 

Thanks DaX and Txdragon for your feedback and advice!
Sleeves- I'm planning on spending the money on sleeves with a 75mm bore, although I may be able to obtain the power on stock sleeves or CSS, I think it will give peace of mind knowing that it will be fully built. Plus it will be closed deck. I won't have to worry about rebuilding it later on, and it will last for a while with sleeves. I'm thinking of Golden Eagle since they are good quality and do the sleeves there at Golden Eagle. Darton makes good sleeves, but a machine shop has to install them, which is why I'm leaning towards Golden Eagle. I think it's worth the money, although it will be about $1,200...
Machine work- block decked (the builder says the machine shop does this with the bore, filing piston rings, polishing the crankshaft, and checks the clearances for $450). The valves will require machining in, so I was quoted $450-600 for the valve job.
Headstuds- I think I'll start off with ARP unless there is a reason not to.
Pistons- probably CP pistons because the Wiseco are a little less expensive, but they are "rated" to 500hp for their wrist pins, so I don't want to be at the limit. Definitely not Vitara pistons.
Rods- Skunk2 rods are a good choice also, since they are rated to 900hp and are around $400. Honda bearings, unless ACL are better, but I've heard Honda are more reliable for bearings. (Notch the stock main girdle). What about main studs- is it worth going with ARP or are stock good enough? I don't see any ARP main studs listed for the D series. https://arp-bolts.com/kits/make.php?...EngModelID=106
Cam/IM/TB- I'll probably stay with the stock cam, intake manifold, and throttle body at least at first, until after I turbo the car for cost savings and for the simplicity of it. After I turbo it, if I really need more top end power, I can install these parts later with the engine still in the car, and the engine built already.
Fuel system- I'll stay with stock until after the car is rebuilt, just to get the car started and drive it for a little while before turbo, then go with most of what Txdragon recommended prior to turbo installation.
Clutch- I've used Action Clutches before and had good luck with them, so I'm thinking a Stage 4, or if that won't hold the power, then stage 5. Stage 4 says it's for racing and not advised for daily driving. I'll want to use this car on the street sometimes, but not daily driving, so I think Stage 4. Stage 5 says basically track only...

List:
Golden Eagle 75mm bore sleeves
CP 9:1 pistons
Skunk2 connecting rods
JE Proseal headgasket
Skun2 or Ferrea 6000 valves
Supertech valve hardware (guides, locks, bases/locators)
Skunk2 or Supertech Valvesprings and Retainers
Honda oil pump, timing belt, water pump, bearings
Action Stage 4 clutch/resurfaced stock flywheel

Turbo- will be later on, but probably will be a Garrett T3/T04E or T3/60-1 or possibly Precision, but I'd like to spend around $700 or so, and not do a ball bearing or water cooled Turbo, so it looks like the Precision ones are out of my price range and are mostly or all ball bearing...
Limited slip differential and (maybe) axels- will be after the engine build and turbo are in, so not for a while. I don't plan on launching the car too much, mostly just a occasional street car and drag race it here and there, but not be competitive really. I don't plan on ever using drag slicks, but maybe drag radials.

 

I loved my action clutch, no doubt but you're gonna want to go another route. Before I chose my ACT, I emailed Action to see what their advice/offering was for what I needed and here os a screenshot of the email they sent me..

 

Thanks for letting me know. The Stage 4 seems just a little stronger than stage 3.
So a stage 5 should be plenty. Although it says for racing only, so I'll have to look into those other brands also.
I wonder if stage 5 would be alright for an occasional street car, non-daily driver?

 

All I can speak for regarding driveability is the stage 3. We all know that puck clutches are rough when compared to their full-faced counterparts but, that one was the smoothest I've ever driven. Now that may or may not be the case for the 5 but I don't think they'd have recommended it for me otherwise, I did let them know I street my car as well.

 

single disc clutches rated for high torque make streetability difficult.
i would recc a twin disc but its 3 times the cost.

my old y8 turbo setup starting lifting head @ 237hp on new stock bolts.
i switched to ARP studs and didnt have an issue.
my previous y7 turbo setup was @ 304hp on arp studs with not headlift issues.

If i was to do it again, I would use L19 studs.

Good luck and keep us posted

 

I'll start with the Action Stage 5 clutch. If it's not street drivable for me, then I can look at other options later on.

For headstuds, at this point, I think I'll just use ARP headstuds, then do testing and tuning later. Worst scenario is that I blow the head gasket- the block and head should remain fine in the worst scenario, I think right...? Then I would remove the engine from the car, and have a machine shop upgrade to the SRT-4 headstuds later on.
Thanks for the input, as I might have to upgrade the headstuds at some point.

 

I used regular ARP but I'll throw it out there: no matter WHAT you use, they will only hold as long as the block threads allow. I had great success with my second block. Lol! Held 26-28psi and she took a spike of 45 without batting an eye.
As for the clutch, if that's the route you go, keep us posted. I loved the clutch I had but, I went another route due to pricing and availability.

 

Updates:
I just took off the stock clutch and the long block D16Z6 is ready to move to the engine builder's shop - Precision R here in San Antonio. They have build "countless" engines and are working on a 2JZGTE rebuild right now. They seem like they know their stuff, and have been in business 20 years.
I will be buying an engine hoist this week to load the D16Z6 onto a trailer so the engine should be in the shop by later next week, or the week after!

 

Which is why I'd like to start out with standard sized ARP studs, then if anything happens, remachine the block and head to accept the larger SRT-4 studs. It seems like Dax had the headlift issue and was able to switch to the larger 11mm SRT-4 studs later on, and now has no problems with it.
I'll also tell the engine builder to do the deck as good as they can, and make sure they do the ARP headstuds as good as they can .

 

San Antonio, my home town, bruh! Lived out by USAA for a few years before moving out of state. Grew up on the south side mostly. Great-grandmother lived on the East side until she passed. My cousin bought the house. My brother lives out off of Southton rd now. Next time we come into town to visit, I'll have to look ya up!

 

Awesome man, I hope to have the car progressed in the next month or so, so you could check it out if you are in town. I live close to USAA also.

 

I'm sure you'll have it done by the time we get out that way. Probably won't be til June/July time-frame. When I was by USAA, lived in Garden Oaks apartments. Ugh.. Hated that place then. Lol

 

There's honestly nothing wrong with getting an OBD2 B-series engine. The only difference is part of the wiring harness which simply needs a jumper harness adapter. I never understood the fear of getting a slightly newer OBD2 engine when there are simply subtle changes in wiring harness, that still allow the car to make the goal you plan to achieve. Yes, I am a B-series fanatic and don't see the need to do the D-Series, when in actuality, you spend more money to get the same goal.

Get the OBD2 B-series engine and get going. There's nothing to be afraid of,here.

 

With the OBD-2 B series, I'd have to spend $2,400 for the swap, plus the wiring harness, and the new power steering pump from a DOHC del sol to retain power steering. I don't understand the wiring-would I leave the OBD-2 engine harness (which Hmotors says is cut. It's not a complete wiring harness since it's from a Right hand drive JDM integra. So then I might have to buy a new OBD-2 wiring harness from Rywire or something like them.) I have a 94 civic, so it has a OBD-1 body harness. Would that need a jumper harness between the engine and under the hood harnesses on the fenders, or just replace the fender/body/chassis harness with an OBD-2 harness? And do a complete OBD-2 conversion?
Or could I simply keep the OBD-2 engine harness, OBD-1 body harness, and run a conversion harness near the ECU in the passenger compartment. It seems like a mess to me and plus these Hmotors online engines mostly have cut wiring harnesses to start, from what I was told by them recently. It seems like it could cost me over 3 grand, then I'd have an OBD2 computer in the car. Hondata and many others work on OBD-1....
I'm confused how a OBD2 engine works in an OBD-1 car with just one jumper harness, plus the Hmotors online engine harnesses are cut, so I'd have to crimp new connections on it at least.
With the D series, I could put all of the money I would spend on the swap into forged internals and rebuilding the engine for boost. Then if I don't have enough power, I can just increase the boost. It seems to me the D series is less total expense for the same power.
Now if I was going for over 500hp (which I'm not,- I'm only seeking 500 max, and I might only reach 450 or so...) then I think the B series would be better since it is more durable and has more potential.