Good Morning Everyone

I already started a thread on this issue but had posted in the wrong section.

Here is a link below with details of what has been done on the car so far.

Nothernlightz has been of great help.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/introd...oblem-3353646/

Was able to pull out the ECU & found out it’s a P5S-G31 & did some research that i might need a POA-A01.

I’m not sure if the EGR does anything serious, it dint come with the latest F22A1 installation, but we replaced the intake with the EGR from the F22A1 bad block.
Also, the replaced engine worked with this current ECU, & mileage was ok.
But this new engine has a silver cover compared to the replaced ones with black cylinder covers.

There is no CEL on after making sure the O2 sensors are all properly hooked.

I would like to know if the timing might also be an issue, sometime ago, the gasket had to be changed, if there is a chance it wasn’t timed correctly, maybe it could be the reason for the poor mileage, so i can get that checked, tested, before going for another ECU.

I’ll appreciate all the help i can get.

Thank you.

 

Any help please??

 

I think I would check the timing of the car just to be sure. Was the belt or anything replaced on the replacement engine? I would presume black smoke is too rich a mixture and timing needs to be adjustment.

If you can, check the timing marks on the crank as well as checking the timing with a gun if there are timing marks. I presume those are still there.

 

Thanks for the info.

On the replacement engine, the gasket was changed, & that’s it.

I looked around the crank pulley & discovered some marks, i’m guessing it’s for the timing.



Up close, i was able to mark them below.



How do i know if they are positioned correctly??

Anticipating your reply.

 

Follow how this person did it, you need to jumper an item, then hook up the timing light.

 

Also, you can check to make sure the starting point is good as well (meaning the belt was put back on correctly and not off by a tooth or has jumped) by turning number one cylinder to tdc on the power stroke. the mark on the crank should line up with the notch and the mark on the cam should line up to its notch. if u use something long (like a coat hanger) in #1 cyl to put on the piston (the crank mark IS going to b within the vicinity of its mark).

 

Ok.
Thanks.
Will give it a try.

 

96-97 are computer controlled. No jumper needed.

 

Thanks, I forgot that, I was thinking it was a 94/95 for some reason. It seems that people forget on the older ones, and I forgot it is not needed on the newer ones

 

I would try to keep this as short as possible.

Thanks to everyone for their contributions.

So i was convinced by a technical guy that ECU was bad and then replaced it. I drove around for a while and all the plugs came alive from black to brown. The next morning, car wouldn’t start and we’ve been swapping ECU since then (a month already).

2 days ago, someone made mention of the distributor, said it’s possible the distributor on the engine is not compatible with the ECUs.

So i decided to get the distributor from the previous engine, fixed it, and plugs were just a little brown. The technician convinced me i had to do a long drive for the carbon to clear out.

So i did a 120km trip yesterday. When i left city & did about 20km on the highway, i stopped to check 1 of the plugs on cylinder 4, it was already brown, i felt good (meanwhile, i realized the gold screw on the ignition to adjust the idle was loose so i tightened that up, shut it totally). When i got to the next city already about 115km, there was a bad traffic and the rest of the trip was like that.

When i got in and checked the plugs, they were all black again.

Is it the ignition i tightened that made the plugs black again?

Is the old distributor (P5S-G01) not compatible with the ECU (P45-G81) i picked up from the technical guy?

Should i try the default ECU (P5S-G31) with the old distributor(P5S-G01)?

I’ld appreciate all the replies i can get.
Thanks.

 

Please, I need help.

This is a car i used to do 500KM highway with full tank but now i struggle to do 300KM after a swap from F22Z2 to F22B1.

I have replaced MAP sensor, CAT, Plugs, Injectors, ECU, Throttle Body, IAC valve, checked the exhaust for leaks, still no difference.

About a month ago i was able to see a 1.8L type of the car and managed to sketch the purge canister valve to the solenoid control and valve, EGR valve and the hoses that go to the manifold.
Then i was able to do 200KM with a reasonable amount of gas.

Unfortunately as i speak, the situation is back to default again.
I’m guessing there’s something i’m missing at that solenoid control box on the firewall & how it’s connected to the PCV, EGR & intake manifold.

I’ld appreciate if i can get a video showing the connections. I have a feeling that’s where the issue is coming from.

Also there’s a single port on the intake manifold close to the cylinder, i dont know what goes into that too. I’ve marked in red in image below. I had it blocked.



All the help i get will be appreciated.

Thanks.