Hope everyone doing good and safe I had a few ? I have a b20v motor fully rebuild block I did at a machine shop hone and bored to 84:5 with type r piston with stock rods acl bearing stock crank with arp rod bolts brand new head gasket and oil and water pump good brand now head is a gsr rebuild with super tech spring and stock retailer with a Victor x Intake with a 74 mm tb stock injector with after market fuel rail and lines and fuel pump Walbro .now ecu I’m running a s300v3 now car it’s running perfect and hard went to the track and ran super good and hard so now my ? Is I want to go with nos what should I get wet or dry I seen dry easy and cheap to install and wet onlt diff it’s a fuel line from fuel rail which one better and easy to install without damages my motor. And what eles do I neee beside nos kit a retune or etc I seen wet I don’t need diff injector but dry I need to get wires from my ecu to get more fuel and etc . If anyone know please lmk and thankx

 

I think you should do the wet kit.
The dry kits are easier to instal, but they are meant for mostly stock engines to add only 50-70 hp max. I don't know how they add more fuel though, so they can be dangerous, because you would have to tune your ECU to add fuel when you are spraying NOS, however, what about when you are at full throttle and not spraying NOS, then, wouldn't you have to have the ECU tuned to send extra fuel for the NOS? The dry kits are more risky from what I've heard, and inconsistent.
Since you already have a built engine be careful because you are already on an 84.5 MM bore which is risky, maybe not risky for all motor, but for forced induction, its very thin cylinder walls.
With the wet kit, it is a little more time consuming to install, but more effective, and safer than the dry kit. You'll have to T into your fuel line, which isn't that difficult. But at least you know there will be enough fuel for when the NOS is spraying. With the dry kit, it's just a guessing game trying to get the ECU to randomly compensate. The wet kit should provide the amount of fuel needed for the NOS being sprayed, using different sized jets!
When tuning, start off with a low amount of NOS (the smallest jet size) then increase jet size from there if it has a good air/fuel ratio.
I wouldn't mess with the dry kit if I were you.

 

Thanks man everything you said make super sense and you diff rite about all the stuff you said thankx man for the information and taking time to reply with the rite stuff and the answer I was looking for Thankx again

 

Personally, I'd much rather do a dry kit and set up the Nitrous tab in Hondata to control the fuel, but if you're going to do that I'd recommend getting bigger injectors than stock.

 

I was doing some research and I got a s300v3 and I got 550 Injector but haven’t put them yet onto I get it tune but yeah

 

how so how do I get thr ecu to throw more fuel what
item do I need

 

Other than a dry kit, you don't need any other hardware...just some tuning. In SManager you can set up an arming signal (or not use one), choose which ECU output you want to control your nitrous solenoid, set the conditions when nitrous is activated (throttle, RPM, load, etc.), and set up the fuel and ignition changes based on RPM when nitrous is on. You'll need to tune to dial it in. I like this way better than a wet kit because you can adjust fuel AND timing, where with a wet kit, you're just throwing fuel at it and doing nothing for the timing (unless you tune for it). Open SManager and look through the Nitrous/AUX1 tab, and read the help file.

 

I dunno, 84.5mm b20 block on the bottle doesn't leave a lot of room for error. I would do the wet kit if you're going to do it.

How big of a nitrous shot were you thinking? B20vtec in an 6th gen HB? What's it weigh? How did it do at the track? Just wondering if there are any other mods you could do before nitrous.

 

Yes, this is the correct path.

A wet kit, as stated above, can deliver the fuel needed... but cannot address the ignition retard required to run nitrous safely. So the alternatives to deal with the ignition problem is to use an electronic retard device or keep the distributor timing retarded for nitrous at all times.

Ideally, I would recommend using a direct port kit with the fuel side plugged and deliver the fuel into each cylinder using a larger fuel injector controlled by a Hondata s300. This allows a more homogeneous delivery of N20 per cylinder, proper fuel for safe combustion, and the ability to retard timing electronically.

 

I guess we’ll disagree.

With the wet kit you jet the fuel for the nitrous. You’d still activate the solenoids with hondata, still have the ability to fine tune fuel with the injectors, can still mess with timing. You just don’t need to buy the big injectors and retune the whole map.

I set up my manifold for a wet direct port kit, wet just seems way safer to me. Especially during initial tuning.

 

HD a dry kit in the past on a mustang 5.0, worked well. Went through 1 bottle then sold it later on just didn't want to keep filling it. The dry kit had a T into the fuel pressure regulator with a jet sized for it if I recall, when nitrous was activated the pressure regulator would spike the fuel pressure and that is how it would compensate. Never tuned it, just installed the kit with a manual button by the shifter and went for it.