Can you do the EF AWD Swap on an ED Civic of the same year so long as you also swap the tranny, knuckles/spindle and axles? The only difference I know of is that one is JDM and the other is Canadian.



I want to know because I have an ED Civic that I'm swapping in EF axles, transmission, knuckles, half-shaft, and a D16Y5 that I'm putting a built Y8 head on with a tuned P28 ECU. I hope to turbo it by putting in a spacer and increasing the combustion chamber through machining. That or do a vitara build which is simpler, and after I'm done driving it into the ground I want to know if I can convert it to AWD and run big power on the street or not. Like a K or B swapped AWD EF Civic can.

 

the short answer is yes you can do all of these things
because both cars are pretty much the same thing parts wise

now what im a little gray on is the spacer you want to use to increase the chamber space
do you mean a thicker head gasket?
like a 3 layer steel one for example?

 

Yes exactly. Then possibly machine the head for larger valves with larger seats, and with a port an polish. Most of which very slightly increases the size of the combustion chamber. I could also use low compression pistons or ones with valve reliefs cut into them which also reduces compression and allows for a bigger cam with longer duration. Then again I could just dremel a little of the combustion chamber away and measure to make sure the same amount is removed from all four chambers. That and/or I could do it in a box and weight the metal flakes with a palm scale to make sure the same amount is removed. I personally favor the spacer and low compression pistons because it's more exact and valve reliefs will allow me the run a larger cam for more power at very low RPM. Since I plan to compound turbo it, low-mid to high RPM will not need larger valves, higher lift, port and polish, or longer duration valve timing. That's why some would favor machining the chamber, a spacer, or low compression pistons for this build. That or the before mentioned vitara kit which is a tried and true method for a successful D-series turbo build.

Thank you for your response. I've been asking everywhere and you're the first to respond. It's important to me because I really want to convert this car to AWD some day since before stripping, tubbing it out and doing other weight reductions it already only weighs 1,800 lbs. Making it the perfect potential sleeper car. Meaning that with moderate power gains it can become very fast and no one would suspect a 30 year old hatch made in Canada. The AWD will also help a lot because it'll weight so little once it undergoes weight reductions that it'll be hard to stick the power to the ground. Making AWD necessary and the added drivetrain will put weight in the rear. Effectively balancing it out again for turning it.
This is also the first Honda and the oldest that I have collected. So there's a nostalgia factor.

 

your going to have alot fun with this
and ill be honest with you
what you wonna do to your engine sounds nice but its not nessesary
you replace the pistons with ones with beafy rods only
and then you add boost about 9-12 pounds and youll have something like this

this is an old friend of mine
this is danas red crx that he keeps breaking
because he has too much power , a good balance would be about 40 hp less than what he has
but dont tell him that ^_-

 

That's a B20b. Mines a D16y8. I don't know of a way to hit 480hp out of a D16y8 reliably (though race engines are not always reliable). Not without a ton of money poured into it. Which is the complete opposite reason to build a D16 or a B20b. The reason to build a D-series is that they're cheap. I'm aiming for 300hp (maybe) and even that is a lot for a D16y8. The reason I don't want to do the Vitara build is that unlike a z6, a y8 spins the rod bearing at 400-450 horsepower. This is because a y8 head has a smaller combustion chamber than a z6 and requires even shorter rods to bring the compression down below 8:1 and not doing so still spins the bearing by having cylinder pressures too high. See the smaller rod changes the angle of attack. That means that the rod is at more of an angle when peak piston speed occurs as well as when peak pressure occurs which is much earlier. That creates lateral pressures on the rod bearing that causes it to spin. Typically a longer rod and bigger combustion chamber is better for high cylinder pressure setups (old Hot Rod knowledge) to last longer than 10-20 runs. That's why I'd rather run a thicker metal gasket, grind away part of the quench and space between the exhaust valves of the Y8 head and run a dish piston. A z6 would just be better, but that's not what I have. I have a y-block.
However, when I build it again to be AWD I will very likely use a B20b like your friend because they are cheap (about $700-$1300 used). Though I'd rather have a turbo K24 with a K20 head. they are much more to buy and much much more expensive to build.
Even though your friend is about 20-40hp over (imho as well) he really has his act together. I hope to be as knowledgeable as him when I go AWD.

 

I think only ZC motors and d16a6 had the holes drilled and tapped for the intermediate shaft.

http://www.civicwagon.com/discussion...n-and-keep-4wd
D16A6=YES
D16A1= NO
D16Z6=YES IF IT HAS THE MOUNTING FOR THE INTERMEDIATE SHAFT
SOHC ZC=YES
ZC/D16A8/9=YES
D16Y8=NOT SURE
D15's=NO

 

Are you swapping from an AWD wagon to a FWD wagon? parts wont 'swap' into any other ED.