p0336 a few hundred miles after timing belt
p0336 popped up today as I shut off my car. I did the timing belt a few hundred miles ago and definitely disconnected the crank position sensor.
I saw several mentions of the CPS not being disconnected after I had it unhooked. I also noticed some forum posts saying bad wiring is the most likely cause. The car has been running great, and I adjusted the valves - maybe 3 or 4 were getting tight.
Since I just did the belt, I'm worried i put it off 1 tooth or it slipped. I did everything as perfectly as I could though. Should I park it until I can check the timing belt and tensioner, or is it almost definitely the wiring?
If the CPS wiring is bad... how is it running? Is there another engine speed input?
D17A2 engine, I think. It's the 1.7L with single-stage vtec.
I saw several mentions of the CPS not being disconnected after I had it unhooked. I also noticed some forum posts saying bad wiring is the most likely cause. The car has been running great, and I adjusted the valves - maybe 3 or 4 were getting tight.
Since I just did the belt, I'm worried i put it off 1 tooth or it slipped. I did everything as perfectly as I could though. Should I park it until I can check the timing belt and tensioner, or is it almost definitely the wiring?
If the CPS wiring is bad... how is it running? Is there another engine speed input?
D17A2 engine, I think. It's the 1.7L with single-stage vtec.
If you got coolant in the harness or crankshaft sensor (assuming you changed the water pump) that has caused corrosion or contamination of the circuit. I believe the advice is to unbolt the sensor and not unplug the harness when doing the timing belt service.
You didn't change the CKS with a non-Honda sensor did you?
Check your timing again.
Check the tensioner is OK.
You didn't change the CKS with a non-Honda sensor did you?
Check your timing again.
Check the tensioner is OK.
If you got coolant in the harness or crankshaft sensor (assuming you changed the water pump) that has caused corrosion or contamination of the circuit. I believe the advice is to unbolt the sensor and not unplug the harness when doing the timing belt service.
You didn't change the CKS with a non-Honda sensor did you?
Check your timing again.
Check the tensioner is OK.
You didn't change the CKS with a non-Honda sensor did you?
Check your timing again.
Check the tensioner is OK.
I didn't change or move the sensor at all, but I definitely moved the harness, and I might have gotten coolant on it. It was pretty messy.
I hate to have to pull the valve cover again. Is there another way to check the timing? And the tensioner ... I'll have to pull the engine mount to check it. I can't fit my arms in there or see anything. I had a borescope, but am not sure where it is. Is there another way to check it?
Does this fault code come up for slipped/wrong timing, or is it a connection/voltage/signal quality fault?
This thread has a reply on checking ECM connector C for continuity. Can you tell me where that connector is? thread: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/honda-accord-2002-dx-limp-mode-3116377/
I would suggest concentrating on cleaning and drying out that connector and the sensor to see if that solves it. Judging by your posts, that may be what is happening.
I'll clean it up today. Yesterday, the CEL went off, then came back on after it got nice and warm. I ordered a new connector too, in case that doesn't work.
I'm glad I ordered a new connector. The existing one doesn't "click" and latch into place anymore. Luckily, it can be pulled to the top of the engine bay to replace the wiring. There was a little bit of clear/bluish gunk that looked like dielectric grease with a blue (coolant?) tint to it.
Best guess is the connector is backing out just slightly when it's warm.
Best guess is the connector is backing out just slightly when it's warm.
Wellllllll. New connector did nothing to help. I need to pull the sensor and see if the tip is filthy or the ring has something in it. Something is going on. Anybody else seen this?
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Final answer: New Crankshaft position sensor and all is good. Something must break internally when it's old and the plug hasn't been removed for a long time.
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