I'm trying to replace my VTC actuator and part of this job requires me to use the auto tensioner to loosen up the timing chain, so that it can be removed. I'm also going to be replacing the chain, as I think it's stretched by at least one or two cam teeth but maybe more.

The problem here is that my auto tensioner really isn't moving that much. It was previously sort of over the hole, but then while trying to get it centered, it moved off. Now it's not moving at all. It's just sitting there, over blank metal. It needs to move downwards a bit but I've turned and turned the crankshaft pulley and it's just not moving.

I may have broken it somehow or I may be missing something.

BTW, the Honda shop manual actually says to just remove the pulley, take the cover off and then once it's apart, put the pulley back on lightly and use it to compress the auto tensioner and then to actually unbolt the tensioner itself. I don't see why this would actually produce a different result, but it might allow me to better see what I'm doing. Still, I don't really want to get that committed quite yet.

 

Did you ever figure this out -- I've run into the same problem and posted on here but I've gotten no replies? No love for the chain tensioner crowd eh?

 

Hey, sorry! I totally forgot about this post. Keep in mind that this was the biggest car-repair job I ever took on and I tend to bite off more than I can chew on virtually every project I start. I was in no way qualified to do any of this aside from watching a bunch of YouTube videos and reading the service manuals.

The solution was ridiculously easy...when getting it apart, I finally just said screw it and took the bolt out, removing the tensioner. Everything then just came apart without any drama. Getting it back together and lined up is a different story and admittedly for that part, I had help from a very experienced, professional mechanic. However I did get it back together and it ran fine. When you get a new tensioner, you can compare the two (you'll notice the new one is stiffer). Getting it back together is a bit tight but it does work.

In an unrelated curveball that the car decided to throw, after about 2000 miles or so, the radiator completely lost all the coolant and the cylinder head warped. I got my new radiator from 1-800-Radiators and had to get the head machined, but that meant all my hard work of getting everything back together had to come back apart. By this point I couldn't have the car in pieces any longer so I just paid a very well-referred mobile mechanic to handle it while I went to work. He only charged $800 for the labor and I paid for the parts and I took the head to be machined at a place the mechanic referred me to. Everything works fine again, *and* I'm much more confident in the work!

Generally speaking, for this I'd recommend the following:
- Use all Honda parts, Made in Japan where you can. You'd think it's kind of all the same thing, but there's always a real difference. Just because it says "Dorman" doesn't mean anything. Make sure it's Made in Japan.

- The crankshaft pulley is a horrible bitch to get off. You need a blowtorch to heat it up to soften the locktite and the biggest, baddest impact you can find with a big-*** socket. I think they sell them on Amazon. Use a 3/4 impact if you can borrow one...I did and it made my whole life easier. I tried using a 6 foot long cheater bar and it wouldn't budge.

- When you put it back together, use a new crankshaft pulley because the old one is probably worn out. Use an original Honda crankshaft pulley. It's expensive but it's worth it. The cheap Chinese knockoffs (Dorman brand, but cheaper versions) from Amazon wobble noticeably when the engine is turned on. The Honda one is much more round and doesn't wobble. I'm not sure what kind of difference this makes for your engine, but it seems bad. I had originally gotten a Chinese Dorman and put it on, but when the mobile mechanic replaced the head, I also swapped out the pulley with an OEM. This didn't cost me any extra labor and it was well worth the cost of the parts.

- Everything that you take off associated with the VTEC system, just go ahead and replace them - the actuator, the timing chain, other components of the VTEC - replace all that with OEM Honda, because they all have O-rings and whatever that can go bad, and you don't want to go through all of this disassembly again later.