I'm new to actually do my own mechanic work and enjoy doing it. No good at diagnosing the problem
When I start my car I ensure the car is in neutral. I then press the clutch pedal and turn key car starts right up. When I release the clutch pedal with the car still in neutral the car stalls out. I recently changed the clutch and the bearing that came with the clutch kit. I can sit in the car for an hour and the car will run as long as I dont release the clutch pedal.
Releasing the clutch pedal I feel the engine engage the clutch. When I try leaving it in gear and applying the gas it acts as if it wants to drive im concerned that I can't get neutral engaged and don't know any solutions

 

@Aaron Averett this is my own thread I don't want high jack another's post

 

As you said, it means the cluch is engaged. Thickness of items might be too much, clutch pedal might be a possible adjustment you can make if it's not too much.

If possible, mark it before messing with it.

Loosen the clutch pushrod locknut, and turn the pushrod in or out to get the specified height, stroke, free play, and disengagement height at the clutch pedal.

Being as simple as possible (using someone else's description here which is better I think):
Get under your dash and look at the clutch pedal. Follow the hydraulic-type mechanism that connects to the firewall towards the steering wheel until you see a gold nut threaded on a long threaded piece. Unscrew until it's loose. By now you can notice how much or how little slack you can give the pedal. Along that hydraulic assembly at the end closest to the steering wheel, you will see a long plastic mechanism that you can twist. The end of that mechanism will support a finger and a thumb (best way I can describe it) so imagine a giant slotted screw with the "slot" protruded out about an inch. Twist that piece of plastic clockwise for less slack and counter-clockwise for more slack. Once you get your settings right, retighten the gold nut to a snug fit. Test out your pedal and you're done. There is also a similar adjustment you can do located higher up the pedal, but the lower one will correct simple pedal slack. Good luck.

Optimally it should be around here for the settings.

Clutch Pedal Stroke: 130-140 mm (5.12-5.51 in.)
Clutch Pedal Free Play: 10-18 mm (0.39-0.71 in.)
Clutch Pedal Height: 191 mm (7.52 in.)
Clutch Pedal Disengagement Height:95 mm (3.74 in.)

 

That might be a bit beyond my understanding lol . I'm going to give it a try thou

 

if it's not the rod, then the clutch itself is too thick and either there are adjustments to make that fit, or it needs to be shaved down or replaced with a thinner setup.

 

should it be too big if bought from autozone

 

The problem with any aftermarket item purchased is there is always more room for error when it comes to things like this. They could have stuck a little extra clutch material on, the plate could be a hair thicker, etc, which unforunately could have added up to an issue. It could also be the rod had already been adjusted before because the old clutch was getting thin, so now that you are back to a new one, it's just needing some adjustment.

 

This doesn't sound like a clutch issue to me. the car is trying to move in neutral... not the clutch.

something between your shift **** and the forks/syncros inside the transmission is not operating (releasing) as it should or the input shaft is not free to spin on it's bearings.

look for damage or heavy wear on the shift cables in the console and under the hood. drain the transmission oil into a clean pan so you can check for debris or "glitter." this would suggest internal damage or high wear. could be bad bearings, broken or bent shift fork... maybe a damaged syncro. complete diagnosis will probably require the trans to come out.

 

True, maybe the whole thing is aligned crooked in some manner, sounds like it's time to take it back apart before you do anything further and see if anything looks off.

 

thank you going to take it apart tomorrow