I’ve got a 1994 Accord LX and I’m trying to add OEM Honda keyless entry with a CRV’s power lock/keyless entry module. I already have all the Honda fob and I repinned the connectors and everything works power lock-wise.

However, I’m having trouble wiring up the Programming Side of the module. I have all the pins to reinsert, I just need help figuring out how to connect them to powers and grounds. I do not plan on using the hatch glass command and other wires, I just want to know how I can wire it to force it into programming mode. I have a wiring diagram, but I just have no idea what it needs to get forced into Programming Mode.

 

I’m hoping you guys can help me with wiring.
I’ve got a 1994 Accord LX and I’m trying to add OEM Honda keyless entry with a CRV’s power lock/keyless entry module. I already have all the Honda fob and I repinned the connectors and everything works power lock-wise.

However, I’m having trouble wiring up the Programming Side of the module. I have all the pins to reinsert, I just need help figuring out how to connect them to powers and grounds. I do not plan on using the hatch glass command and other wires, I just want to know how I can wire it to force it into programming mode.

 

To my best guess based upon the programming guide (And hoping you have a matching correct fob) Leave Pin 14 LtGRN/Red disconnected (Unless you've actually got it pinned to the door open buttons as properly wired) Pin 13 Blue/Red will your ignition switch function. As per the directions below you will need to ground it as it is what triggers the programming cycle. I would highly recommend hooking up the dome light and the door switches (Its 2 wires you will either need to pin into the door connector or pass into the cabin loam.Step-by-Step How To Programming Instructions:

1. ENTER the vehicle and CLOSE all doors. (Each of the following steps must be completed within five seconds of one another. If you take longer than five seconds between steps or make a mistake, you must start the entire procedure over.)
2. INSERT the key into the Ignition, HOLD one remote in your left hand with additional remotes close by.
3. PERFORM each of the next three (3) steps in order, then repeat all three (3) steps two (2) more times for a total of three (3) times each.
4. TURN the Ignition to the ON position, marked “II” on the Ignition.
5. PRESS the LOCK button on the remote for approximately 1 second. (Say “Mississippi”)
6. TURN the Ignition to the OFF position, marked “I” on the Ignition. (REPEAT Steps 4-6 three (3) times)
7. TURN the Ignition switch to the ON position, marked “II” on the Ignition.
8. PRESS the LOCK button on the same remote. The door locks should cycle indicating the vehicle has ENTERED Programming Mode.
9. PRESS the LOCK button again on the same remote. The door locks should cycle again indicating the vehicle has successfully PROGRAMMED that remote.
10. For programming additional remotes to your vehicle, REPEAT Step 9 with each additional remote one after another. Step 9 must be completed within ten (10) seconds for each additional remote. You may program up to three (3) remotes to your vehicle.
11. TURN the ignition to OFF.
12. Test all remotes. Programming is now complete.

 

Do I need to connect the Ignition+ or is it unnecessary?

 

You will need to find a feed in the door that is hot when in run/start. I want to say the GRN/WHT wire from the power windows may offer that, but I havent checked fully if its only hot while in run/start

 

But do I need it for programming, or just the switched ground?

 

I would recommend finding a Helm manual for a CRV and follow the wiring diagram. I've never retrofit this before, but do have a crv. To put it into program it is connected to the ignition "on" wire.

 

The electrical circuit requires power and ground.

In general, the ignition needs to be in the ON position to initiate programming for keyless entry.

Just hook up the required power wires (there is one that is always hot (terminal no. 8 on the module), and one that is hot when the ignition is in the ON or START position (terminal no. 16 on the module) and ground. Whether programming or not, they are required for the normal operation after programming anyway.

 

Your separate threads on the same topic have been merged.

 

I’ve got a wiring diagram and it shows all the wires and what goes to what, but I was unsure if I had to connect the door switches and dome light wires.


This is how I managed to repin all the Accord pins to the CRV module.

 

I think I need to find another fob to eliminate that out of the equation. It was in my grandmother’s house, unused for years before I found it a few weeks back. I’d have to try on her CRV to see if the fob works or not. The light turns on and everything, but it’s also from the late 90’s.

 

Just curious if you ever got this to work? I’m looking to do something similar, using the crv module for my 96 hatch because I want to add a trunk release as well.

Also, is there a reason why you opted to use the crv keyless entry module and not one out of a 99-00 civic?

Thanks

 

no, sadly. I ended up giving up on that idea. I’m sure it was possible, but I couldn’t get it to pair the remote.
Looking back, I had the wrong remote FCC ID, I was using an Accord when I should’ve used a CR-V remote.
I used a CR-V one because, at the time, they were abundant in my local junkyard.
Like I said, it’s possible, but I would’ve had to add a ton of wires and it was feasible at the time. Now, with the experience I gained, I feel I could have done it.

 

Ah that’s unfortunate. I’ll probably give it a shot and if it works, great, and if not, at least I gave it a shot haha.

 

Hey so If anyone was having trouble getting this to work, I solved the problem. I was putting a CRV keyless entry module in a Honda Integra Type R (imported from Japan to the US). I was taking off the door and noticed it had a keyless entry door module for Japan. I had no luck getting a new key FOB so I figured out the connectors from the Integra JDM and CRV are the same.

Now, where it gets tricky is that like you guys I had no switched power to the door. So instead of running a wire to the door, I just jumped the battery power that goes to the door lock module into the spot that the CRV module is expecting switched power. I jumped the wire, pressed the lock button then pulled the jumper out and repeated the process 4 times until the door lock cycle happened. After that the key fob worked and now the doors lock and unlock like factory.

You don't need the switched power there all the time as far as I can tell. It seems to only be needed for putting the car into programming mode. After the key is programmed you can pull the jumper and programming will stay.

Of course it depends on the car you have but if you look at the wiring diagrams and match the pins out to the CRV module connector.