First post so here goes nothing.

I got a 1994 Accord LX sedan and it’s been good so far. Sat for a few years and I’ve been restoring it, fixed the power locks, fixed the power antenna, generally just making it a good daily driver.

I’m more of an EG Civic guy so I don’t know much. I’ve done a ton of research and I ended up grabbing the keyless entry module from an EM2 Civic because the EX’s came with keyless entry, but you can add it to an LX by connecting switched power, constant power, and tap it into a plug behind the radio. I also know the ‘97 Special Editions came with KE, but those are rare to come by and I don’t really want to pull the whole wiring harness for 100% OEM KE.

My question is: can I add the EM2 module into my CD5, or is it a waste of time and just get an aftermarket alarm from eBay?

 

Long as you have the pigtails and the instructions, it should work. Make the appropriate connections.

 

Anything is possible depending on the vehicle and the work you want to go through with. I added a 98 CRV's keyless entry to my 93 civic and all that involved was repinning the door lock connector to the CRV's and adding a few extra wires that didnt exist for dome lights and stuff. I know on the EX wagons and such, there is already keyless entry (Honda installed) and that module resides under the driver seat. There is also the Honda optional Security module under the seat too if your Sedan/Coupe/Wagon came with it. My 94 Wagon had the keyless, my 95 had the security module, and the standard keyless entry, but the normal Keyless remote didnt work and I ahd to find the "special" remote that worked for the security module.

 

Are you saying that I can install a first gen CRV power lock module and it’ll have keyless entry? I googled it right now and diagrams say that the module in the driver’s door has keyless entry in it as well.

 

If its like the 93 civic all I did was match the input/output wires on the door harness to the crv's connector. I got my information from Auto Repair thing available at most libraries. They were different connector sizes but the same type pins in each, so I depinned the wires from the civic one and put them into the CRV's connector. (I mocked all this stuff up on a spare door harness I grabbed from the junkyard, so I wouldnt be destroying the one in the door in case my plans had not worked out). I think I had to borrow an always hot wire from like the window circuit and run a wire to the dome llight circuit (This told the CRV module the door was open, otherwise the module would just relock the doors automatically after like 3 minutes or whatever the factory default is because the module thought no one opened the doors). Civics of that vintage didnt have the electric trunk popper, so I never ran that wire.

 

Overall it really depends on the amount of research/work you're willing to engage in.

 

It doesn’t seem too difficult. I already have a spare Accord lock module, so I plan on making an adapter by soldering the CRV’s pigtail to the Accord’s female just so that I don’t have to “permanently” tamper with the plug. Plus, if anything happens, I can always switch it back to the Accord’s OEM one. I found all the wiring colors and such online so it’s just finding the CRV parts and soldering.

 

I de pinned and repinned the CRV’s module into the Accord. It works just like before, except there’s extra ports. The wires I don’t have connected are ceiling light, horn relay, key switch input, door switch input, and ignition input. Now, what wires do I need to connect to program the remote? The wiring diagram says that there’s a key switch input and an ignition input. Which should I most concern myself with? Should I connect a door input wire as well since most programming instructions say to close all doors?

 

Im going back on memory here since I want to say I did this mod about 5 years ago. I programmed the remotes when I had it mocked up out of the car and had access to all the wires and wasnt looking for the non-connected ones. I had basically mocked up the entire door harness complete with power lock mechanism on the work bench and a 12V supply. I believe I used a standard light switch to mock up the ignition.

If I recall the CRV correctly and Im using the proper diagram

98 CRV
Pin 17 on the CRV Module is GND
Pin 11 is Door Switch Unlock wire.
Pin 12 is Door Switch Lock wire.
Pin 16 is any feed that is hot in ON or START
Pin 8 is a wire hot at all times.
Pin 3 is some sort of horn wire (Schematic says Not used)
Pin 9 comes from the Driver actuator wiring Unlock Input feed
Pin 10 comes from the Driver actuator wiring Lock Input feed
Pin 7 comes from the Driver actuator wiring Motor
Pin 18 comes from the actuator unlock feeds.
Pin 6 comes from the actuator lock feeds.
Pin 2 comes from the Dome light (This is part of what tells the module a door has opened)*
Pin 14 comes from the door switches (This is part of what tells the module a door has opened)*
Pin 13 comes from the ignition switch (Its just a switched ground, for programming purposes only, I dont remember hooking it up for anything afterwards)
Pin 5 is the glass popper on the CRV, if you have electric trunk pop, you can run the wire for this.

*The CRV will automatically relock all the doors if it senses a door has not been opened within a certain time frame as part of its security setup with the RKE

94 Accord LX Lock module
Pin 14 is a wire hot at all times.
Pin 7 is Door Switch Unlock wire.
Pin 8 is Door Switch Unlock wire.
Pin 12 comes from the drivers Key cylinder, indicating a key has unlocked/locked it.
Pin 2 comes from the Driver actuator wiring Unlock Input feed
Pin 1 comes from the Driver actuator wiring Lock Input feed
Pin 6 comes from the actuator unlock feeds.
Pin 4 comes from the actuator lock feeds.
Pin 5 on the Accord Module is GND

You should be able to marry into the wire that is "Hot in ON" from the mirror circuit.
Also it appears on the CRV the drivers door is able to be unlocked first and then the rest of the locks to follow depending if the wires are seperated. Judging from the 94 LX's diagram all the locks open at the same time

 

So I should ground the ignition wire, rather than power it? In the car, I connected all the locking wires, but I connected the Yellow ignition switch wire to one of the fuse box options, hoping I could do it through that, then disconnect it when I’m done. I’m not trying to have full functionality, I just want the fob to lock and unlock the car.

 

The one marked ignition cylinder according to the diagram is given a ground when the ignition cylinder is on.

 

I’ll have to try that with a relay then. Thanks