My 2002 Honda Accord Cranks But Doesn’t Turn Over
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 4
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From: Stockton, CA
My 2002 Honda Accord Cranks But Doesn’t Turn Over
I purchased a 2002 Honda Accord EX 4-cylinder V-TECH with a 2.4L engine from a private owner that I had to smog prior to registering under my name. I procrastinated as the car was running fine and the CEL was off-despite the smell of fuel.
Within a few days of the tags expiring, the CEL came on. I purchased a simple code reader from Amazon to determine the issue. A code popped up indicating an O2 sensor issue. I replaced one, then had to replace the other, and finally re-replaced the first O2 sensor before another code came up; this time advising of an issue with the EGR valve. I had this replaced and drove it for about an hour on the freeway before driving home- no CEL. The next morning, I started the car- it came on again.
By this time, the tags have expired and I was in a race to get it fixed so I can legally drive it again. I took my code reader and this time it displayed a code I was dreading- an issue with the catalytic converter. Being in California, I had to purchase one with a CARB number or it will fail the visual inspection of the smog test. Luckily, I found a mechanic who not only had the part in stock, but installed it within 20 minutes and only set me back a few hundred dollars. I was told to drive it about 50-100 miles from a family member before taking it to smog. Instead, I drove about ten miles home, mostly freeway, and the CEL light was still off. I quickly logged onto my laptop to see if I can obtain an extension online so I can drive it legally, but it was taking too long; so I drove it on the freeway for about ten minutes before arriving at a “pass or don’t pay” smog center.
He called me into the lobby and explained I would’ve passed the test, but I had to drive the car, as previously mentioned to me, for about 50 miles on surface streets so the computer could read the EGR valve. I was told to come back once I’ve driven it as requested. So I drove around the streets with my expired tags for about an hour then it came on again- the CEL. Feeling defeated, I went home and used my code reader to fine the same code coming up.
After a day of research on this issue, my grandpa and I decided to get some throttle body cleaner and do just that. To keep the data stored on the car’s computer, we did not disconnect the battery. We took apart and cleaned the throttle body. As we put the part back together, I lied down a tool an area of the engine that caused a huge spark- cause by the battery being plugged in.
The moment of truth was here. I got in the car. Put my foot on the clutch and turned the ignition. It cranked but wouldn’t turn over. My car no longer wanted to start.
After more research, we tested all the fuses and found them to be okay. But the battery began to drain, so i had to connect to a charger. My grandpa and I were in awe. He mentioned since a lot has already been replaced, to get new ignition coils, spark plugs, and distributor. I did this and all was successfully installed- just to find my car still didn’t want to start.
Once again I pulled out my code reader, connected it, and it displayed “loading error.” This, too, has malfunctioned. Not only that, a green key light began to show on my dashboard. Again, after much research, I reset the anti-fraud by unlocking, locking and unlocking the driver side door; well at least I think I did. The green key button disappears when ignition is on the “on” position; but seems to reappear as I attempt to start the car, but all it does is crank and doesn’t turn over.
Now I’m reaching out for help as my stepdad thinks when I put the tool on the engine that caused that huge spark, I could’ve blown the PCM. Is this why the code reader can no longer show codes. Oh- and the CEL is still on. With this information, what should I do next. I need this car for work and it’s really eating away at my bank account.
Thank you!!!
Within a few days of the tags expiring, the CEL came on. I purchased a simple code reader from Amazon to determine the issue. A code popped up indicating an O2 sensor issue. I replaced one, then had to replace the other, and finally re-replaced the first O2 sensor before another code came up; this time advising of an issue with the EGR valve. I had this replaced and drove it for about an hour on the freeway before driving home- no CEL. The next morning, I started the car- it came on again.
By this time, the tags have expired and I was in a race to get it fixed so I can legally drive it again. I took my code reader and this time it displayed a code I was dreading- an issue with the catalytic converter. Being in California, I had to purchase one with a CARB number or it will fail the visual inspection of the smog test. Luckily, I found a mechanic who not only had the part in stock, but installed it within 20 minutes and only set me back a few hundred dollars. I was told to drive it about 50-100 miles from a family member before taking it to smog. Instead, I drove about ten miles home, mostly freeway, and the CEL light was still off. I quickly logged onto my laptop to see if I can obtain an extension online so I can drive it legally, but it was taking too long; so I drove it on the freeway for about ten minutes before arriving at a “pass or don’t pay” smog center.
He called me into the lobby and explained I would’ve passed the test, but I had to drive the car, as previously mentioned to me, for about 50 miles on surface streets so the computer could read the EGR valve. I was told to come back once I’ve driven it as requested. So I drove around the streets with my expired tags for about an hour then it came on again- the CEL. Feeling defeated, I went home and used my code reader to fine the same code coming up.
After a day of research on this issue, my grandpa and I decided to get some throttle body cleaner and do just that. To keep the data stored on the car’s computer, we did not disconnect the battery. We took apart and cleaned the throttle body. As we put the part back together, I lied down a tool an area of the engine that caused a huge spark- cause by the battery being plugged in.
The moment of truth was here. I got in the car. Put my foot on the clutch and turned the ignition. It cranked but wouldn’t turn over. My car no longer wanted to start.
After more research, we tested all the fuses and found them to be okay. But the battery began to drain, so i had to connect to a charger. My grandpa and I were in awe. He mentioned since a lot has already been replaced, to get new ignition coils, spark plugs, and distributor. I did this and all was successfully installed- just to find my car still didn’t want to start.
Once again I pulled out my code reader, connected it, and it displayed “loading error.” This, too, has malfunctioned. Not only that, a green key light began to show on my dashboard. Again, after much research, I reset the anti-fraud by unlocking, locking and unlocking the driver side door; well at least I think I did. The green key button disappears when ignition is on the “on” position; but seems to reappear as I attempt to start the car, but all it does is crank and doesn’t turn over.
Now I’m reaching out for help as my stepdad thinks when I put the tool on the engine that caused that huge spark, I could’ve blown the PCM. Is this why the code reader can no longer show codes. Oh- and the CEL is still on. With this information, what should I do next. I need this car for work and it’s really eating away at my bank account.
Thank you!!!
Last edited by JTKapule; Oct 18, 2020 at 10:36 PM. Reason: Deleted extra lines between paragraphs.
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Joined: May 2017
Posts: 314
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From: Chicagoland 708
Re: My 2002 Honda Accord Cranks But Doesn’t Turn Over
So the shop said the EGR came up bad, and you took it home declining the EGR repair..and fixed the throttle body for some reason? Now it doesn't start. That is a surprise huh.
How far was the throttle body disassembled?
There is an idle set screw underneath the throttle bell, was it altered? It will not idle with the screw backed out and cause a no run condition.
Was the air bypass screw changed on the top of the throttle body? If that is closed it will cause difficulty starting. It takes air from there when it needs some, for cold idle.
The car has 2 trip logic, you do not have to drive 50 miles.
How far was the throttle body disassembled?
There is an idle set screw underneath the throttle bell, was it altered? It will not idle with the screw backed out and cause a no run condition.
Was the air bypass screw changed on the top of the throttle body? If that is closed it will cause difficulty starting. It takes air from there when it needs some, for cold idle.
The car has 2 trip logic, you do not have to drive 50 miles.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Stockton, CA
Re: My 2002 Honda Accord Cranks But Doesn’t Turn Over
So the shop said the EGR came up bad, and you took it home declining the EGR repair..and fixed the throttle body for some reason? Now it doesn't start. That is a surprise huh.
>>>
(First off, thank you for your response!) I may have been unclear, I apologize. To sum it up, I used my simple code scanner to determine why the CEL came on and with the help of my grandpa, would correct the issue (pretty much installed all new parts) and the CEL would disappear. To ensure the issue was corrected, I would drive about 50 miles and each time the light wouldn’t come on. But every time either later in the day or the following morning, I’d start the car and there it is, the CEL. So I pull out my code reader and a new code would come up.
When the issue was now the catalytic converter, my grandpa told me to find a shop to have it done; I was lucky to find a spot that had the part, was affordable, and had it done in 30-45 minutes. Once installed, mechanic told me to drive surface streets, about 50 miles. Due to expired stickers and inability to get an extension- I didn’t drive around for too long and went to the smog shop. After test, the person there advised everything looked good and I would’ve passed but there wasn’t much data for the EGR so I was advised to drive it around for about a day or so and come back.
Lo and behold the CEL came on the next morning and the code advised it was the EGR. After researching forums- it advised the throttle body may have to be cleaned. So we did that...
How far was the throttle body disassembled?
>>>
If I remember correctly, we took apart several “wires” and about several bolts on either side and took off the top part. From there, we cleaned and put the cover back.
There is an idle set screw underneath the throttle bell, was it altered? It will not idle with the screw backed out and cause a no run condition.
>>>
I do not recall (THANK YOU!!!)... I will definitely bring this to my grandpa’s attention when he comes home from work about 6 PM (PST) and let you know if it works!
Was the air bypass screw changed on the top of the throttle body? If that is closed it will cause difficulty starting. It takes air from there when it needs some, for cold idle.
>>>
Thank you for this- I will have him check this too!!! And I will get back to you
The car has 2 trip logic, you do not have to drive 50 miles.
>>>
(First off, thank you for your response!) I may have been unclear, I apologize. To sum it up, I used my simple code scanner to determine why the CEL came on and with the help of my grandpa, would correct the issue (pretty much installed all new parts) and the CEL would disappear. To ensure the issue was corrected, I would drive about 50 miles and each time the light wouldn’t come on. But every time either later in the day or the following morning, I’d start the car and there it is, the CEL. So I pull out my code reader and a new code would come up.
When the issue was now the catalytic converter, my grandpa told me to find a shop to have it done; I was lucky to find a spot that had the part, was affordable, and had it done in 30-45 minutes. Once installed, mechanic told me to drive surface streets, about 50 miles. Due to expired stickers and inability to get an extension- I didn’t drive around for too long and went to the smog shop. After test, the person there advised everything looked good and I would’ve passed but there wasn’t much data for the EGR so I was advised to drive it around for about a day or so and come back.
Lo and behold the CEL came on the next morning and the code advised it was the EGR. After researching forums- it advised the throttle body may have to be cleaned. So we did that...
How far was the throttle body disassembled?
>>>
If I remember correctly, we took apart several “wires” and about several bolts on either side and took off the top part. From there, we cleaned and put the cover back.
There is an idle set screw underneath the throttle bell, was it altered? It will not idle with the screw backed out and cause a no run condition.
>>>
I do not recall (THANK YOU!!!)... I will definitely bring this to my grandpa’s attention when he comes home from work about 6 PM (PST) and let you know if it works!
Was the air bypass screw changed on the top of the throttle body? If that is closed it will cause difficulty starting. It takes air from there when it needs some, for cold idle.
>>>
Thank you for this- I will have him check this too!!! And I will get back to you
The car has 2 trip logic, you do not have to drive 50 miles.
That’s good to know. Okay now I have somewhere to start. Cause the CEL is on and my code reader now displays “loading error.” I will be back tonight!
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,834
Likes: 37
From: Looking for SloMofo....
Re: My 2002 Honda Accord Cranks But Doesn’t Turn Over
I purchased a 2002 Honda Accord EX 4-cylinder V-TECH with a 2.4L engine from a private owner that I had to smog prior to registering under my name. I procrastinated as the car was running fine and the CEL was off-despite the smell of fuel.
Within a few days of the tags expiring, the CEL came on. I purchased a simple code reader from Amazon to determine the issue. A code popped up indicating an O2 sensor issue. I replaced one, then had to replace the other, and finally re-replaced the first O2 sensor before another code came up; this time advising of an issue with the EGR valve. I had this replaced and drove it for about an hour on the freeway before driving home- no CEL. The next morning, I started the car- it came on again.
By this time, the tags have expired and I was in a race to get it fixed so I can legally drive it again. I took my code reader and this time it displayed a code I was dreading- an issue with the catalytic converter. Being in California, I had to purchase one with a CARB number or it will fail the visual inspection of the smog test. Luckily, I found a mechanic who not only had the part in stock, but installed it within 20 minutes and only set me back a few hundred dollars. I was told to drive it about 50-100 miles from a family member before taking it to smog. Instead, I drove about ten miles home, mostly freeway, and the CEL light was still off. I quickly logged onto my laptop to see if I can obtain an extension online so I can drive it legally, but it was taking too long; so I drove it on the freeway for about ten minutes before arriving at a “pass or don’t pay” smog center.
He called me into the lobby and explained I would’ve passed the test, but I had to drive the car, as previously mentioned to me, for about 50 miles on surface streets so the computer could read the EGR valve. I was told to come back once I’ve driven it as requested. So I drove around the streets with my expired tags for about an hour then it came on again- the CEL. Feeling defeated, I went home and used my code reader to fine the same code coming up.
After a day of research on this issue, my grandpa and I decided to get some throttle body cleaner and do just that. To keep the data stored on the car’s computer, we did not disconnect the battery. We took apart and cleaned the throttle body. As we put the part back together, I lied down a tool an area of the engine that caused a huge spark- cause by the battery being plugged in.
The moment of truth was here. I got in the car. Put my foot on the clutch and turned the ignition. It cranked but wouldn’t turn over. My car no longer wanted to start.
After more research, we tested all the fuses and found them to be okay. But the battery began to drain, so i had to connect to a charger. My grandpa and I were in awe. He mentioned since a lot has already been replaced, to get new ignition coils, spark plugs, and distributor. I did this and all was successfully installed- just to find my car still didn’t want to start.
Once again I pulled out my code reader, connected it, and it displayed “loading error.” This, too, has malfunctioned. Not only that, a green key light began to show on my dashboard. Again, after much research, I reset the anti-fraud by unlocking, locking and unlocking the driver side door; well at least I think I did. The green key button disappears when ignition is on the “on” position; but seems to reappear as I attempt to start the car, but all it does is crank and doesn’t turn over.
Now I’m reaching out for help as my stepdad thinks when I put the tool on the engine that caused that huge spark, I could’ve blown the PCM. Is this why the code reader can no longer show codes. Oh- and the CEL is still on. With this information, what should I do next. I need this car for work and it’s really eating away at my bank account.
Thank you!!!
Within a few days of the tags expiring, the CEL came on. I purchased a simple code reader from Amazon to determine the issue. A code popped up indicating an O2 sensor issue. I replaced one, then had to replace the other, and finally re-replaced the first O2 sensor before another code came up; this time advising of an issue with the EGR valve. I had this replaced and drove it for about an hour on the freeway before driving home- no CEL. The next morning, I started the car- it came on again.
By this time, the tags have expired and I was in a race to get it fixed so I can legally drive it again. I took my code reader and this time it displayed a code I was dreading- an issue with the catalytic converter. Being in California, I had to purchase one with a CARB number or it will fail the visual inspection of the smog test. Luckily, I found a mechanic who not only had the part in stock, but installed it within 20 minutes and only set me back a few hundred dollars. I was told to drive it about 50-100 miles from a family member before taking it to smog. Instead, I drove about ten miles home, mostly freeway, and the CEL light was still off. I quickly logged onto my laptop to see if I can obtain an extension online so I can drive it legally, but it was taking too long; so I drove it on the freeway for about ten minutes before arriving at a “pass or don’t pay” smog center.
He called me into the lobby and explained I would’ve passed the test, but I had to drive the car, as previously mentioned to me, for about 50 miles on surface streets so the computer could read the EGR valve. I was told to come back once I’ve driven it as requested. So I drove around the streets with my expired tags for about an hour then it came on again- the CEL. Feeling defeated, I went home and used my code reader to fine the same code coming up.
After a day of research on this issue, my grandpa and I decided to get some throttle body cleaner and do just that. To keep the data stored on the car’s computer, we did not disconnect the battery. We took apart and cleaned the throttle body. As we put the part back together, I lied down a tool an area of the engine that caused a huge spark- cause by the battery being plugged in.
The moment of truth was here. I got in the car. Put my foot on the clutch and turned the ignition. It cranked but wouldn’t turn over. My car no longer wanted to start.
After more research, we tested all the fuses and found them to be okay. But the battery began to drain, so i had to connect to a charger. My grandpa and I were in awe. He mentioned since a lot has already been replaced, to get new ignition coils, spark plugs, and distributor. I did this and all was successfully installed- just to find my car still didn’t want to start.
Once again I pulled out my code reader, connected it, and it displayed “loading error.” This, too, has malfunctioned. Not only that, a green key light began to show on my dashboard. Again, after much research, I reset the anti-fraud by unlocking, locking and unlocking the driver side door; well at least I think I did. The green key button disappears when ignition is on the “on” position; but seems to reappear as I attempt to start the car, but all it does is crank and doesn’t turn over.
Now I’m reaching out for help as my stepdad thinks when I put the tool on the engine that caused that huge spark, I could’ve blown the PCM. Is this why the code reader can no longer show codes. Oh- and the CEL is still on. With this information, what should I do next. I need this car for work and it’s really eating away at my bank account.
Thank you!!!
Certainly sounds like you fried the PCM. If you are absolutely certain all of the fuses are good,Id have it towed to a shop.
No offense to gramps,but it sounds like he is really out if his element.
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Joined: May 2018
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Likes: 173
Re: My 2002 Honda Accord Cranks But Doesn’t Turn Over
OK, it cranks, so the starter works, now you need to determine what is not, either spark or fuel. So, pull a spark plug out, leave it connected to the plug wire, have someone crank the car and someone else watch the plug to see if you see a spark. You may want to do this in the evening to see the spark clearly. No spark and at least you know which item is not working.
Then , if that works, you need to test the fuel and see if the injectors are firing. You might already have an answer, do you smell fuel after cranking and cranking it?
Then , if that works, you need to test the fuel and see if the injectors are firing. You might already have an answer, do you smell fuel after cranking and cranking it?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Stockton, CA
Re: My 2002 Honda Accord Cranks But Doesn’t Turn Over
OK, it cranks, so the starter works, now you need to determine what is not, either spark or fuel. So, pull a spark plug out, leave it connected to the plug wire, have someone crank the car and someone else watch the plug to see if you see a spark. You may want to do this in the evening to see the spark clearly. No spark and at least you know which item is not working.
Then , if that works, you need to test the fuel and see if the injectors are firing. You might already have an answer, do you smell fuel after cranking and cranking it?
Then , if that works, you need to test the fuel and see if the injectors are firing. You might already have an answer, do you smell fuel after cranking and cranking it?