Just purchased this ek coupe and it has a short somewhere. So i have been trying to trace this short down but can’t find it at all. The fuses keep blowing when car is turned to on position however whenever I unplug connection c101. Fuse 44 and 23 related or different shorts?

 

Two separate shorts.

Fuse 23 protects the SRS computer. Has the car been in an accident?

What year Civic? Are saying that unplugging C101 prevents fuse 44 from blowing?

 

1997 honda civic dx sohc non vtec d16y7

I just purchased the car so i'm not sure, it is clean title though, however i do see dent on passenger side front clip. Will the srs system prevent the car from starting after i fix the fuse 44 short?

Also unplugging c101 the fuse does not pop.
I then plug that back in a unplug injectors and iac. fuse pops
i plug those all back in unplug connector c130 and fuse does not pop
im trying to unplug c116 right now but cant seem to get it off, it is the grey connector that is next to the blue correct?

 

No

For fuse 44 issue, test whether unplugging only ECU connector A prevents fuse 44 from blowing.

 

I unplugged connection A on ecu with everything else plugged in and the fuse does not pop.

 

Buy a replacement ECU.

Unplug the SRS unit connector. Does this prevent fuse 23 from blowing?

 

I'll go to a junkyard tomorrow and see what i can find

 

If no luck at the junk yard, eBay is a good place to shop for ECUs.

 

which year honda civics will i be able to get the exact ecu from? 96-2000?

 

What transmission and Civic trim (hatch, coupe, sedan)?

 

manual civic dx coupe

 

To avoid evaporative emissions system trouble codes, a P2E ECU from the following donor Civics should work:

• Any stock 96 Civic CX, DX, or LX w/ M/T
• Any stock 97 Civic DX w/ M/T
• Any stock 98 Civic CX w/ M/T

 

will do, ill keep an eye out for those tomorrow!

 

Couldn’t find any, buddy gave me an auto ecu will it work? Plugged it in and the fuse doesn’t pop however the fuel pump isn’t priming. Main relay clicks and is working though

 

Also where is the srs unit located? If I leave it in and the fuse keeps popping. Will the car still be able to run?

 

What specific ECU did your buddy give you?

Try this test:
See ECU connector A diagram in post #4.
Unplug ECU connector A.
Use a wire to ground pin A16 (Grn/Yel wire) to the metal frame under the dash.
Turn key to ON(II).
Does the fuel pump run?

 

See diagram below.
Yes

 

Buddy gave me a 1999 civic sedan automatic ecu
it has the same p2e code but a90 last three digits. Also a lot smaller than my original ecu.

ground that ecu wire on my original or buddy’s ecu

 

Ground a16 fuel pump doesn’t work. Tried on both ecu

 

Your car has an OBD2a ECU, whereas a 99 Civic has an OBD2b ECU. Obd2a and OBD2b ECUs are not interchangeable.

 

The test bypasses the ECU for priming the fuel pump.
Start by checking whether fuse 44 or dash fuse 13 is blown. Also check the important G101 ground on the thermostat housing.

 

Replaced fuses just to make sure tried again and still doesn’t work. Pump only works when jumping 6/7 on main relay. However I’m pretty sure this main relay is good I feel it click once when turning key to on. Had multiple Duralast ones before and didn’t feel or hear the click. Got this main relay today from junkyard and felt / heard the single click

 

The main relay connector pin jumps to make the fuel pump run are 7-4 (Key OFF) and 5-4 (Key ON[II]).

7-4 = Wht/Blk wire to Yel/Grn (pump)
5-4 = Yel/Grn (Fuse 13) to Yel/Grn (pump)

Which jump test does not run the pump?

 

With ecu connector a off and key turned to on 5/4 did not work.

 

Fuse 13 is still good, did not pop as well.
also got a lead on a p2e-426 he said was pulled from a running 96-98 hatch his buddy went b20. This ecu should work right?