replaced a top end on a d16y7 back to a d16y8 vtec idk what happened to it originally but y8 is the right engine b4 it was poping up vtec failure bcus non vtec engine still had the y8 ecu in it so i swapped one in and now it doesnt start at all
i have fuel spark and all the timing marks lined up tdc number 1 ...tried checking compression and the battery died ...the number one piston only hit like 50 the other ones slowly went down as i went down the line but idk if thats bcus the battery was dieing ...and im getting what smells like gas in my oil under the valve cover turning it into the milk shake please help this cars my baby and idk what to do ..

 

98 civix ex coupe automatic ...new headgasket now it wont start at all and i smell gas and see gas vapor coming out of the oil cap when i take it off, oil in valve cover is getting milky
all timing marks lined up i have fuel, spark need to check compression again it was low please help

 

compression is in ...its not good it was from right to left 60 60 60 30...wtf is wrong

 

Did you disable the fuel injectors before doing the compression tests?

Was the throttle pedal held wide open during the test?

Was engine cranked for 25-30 seconds for each cylinder?

 

Bad compression across the board and milky oil inside the engine... sounds to me like the OP has a "faulty installer valve".

 

98 civic ex automatic
i have fuel to the injectors
i have spark to the the plugs
i have 120 compression on all four
all the timing marks line up at tdc
all the grounds are good
battery is good and connecters are tight and free of corrosion


please help i dont know what else to check this is my only car

 

well i just noticed that when i crank it fuel vapor fills the valve cover and when i blow in the valve cover the vapors come out under the back side of the valve cover like under the intake manifold ..could that be why my compression is low

 

120 compression should run fine. With all that fuel vapour are the plugs fouled? I would check/dry the plugs and try again. With spark fuel and compression, not much left, maybe it's firing at the wrong time.

Did you do any other work on the car? Is it all stock?

 

i changed the headgasket

 

i reused the head bolt also...have arp studs coming tomorrow

originally it was really low compression like 60 all cylinders so i added a cap full of new oil to each and it got it to 120
idk if it was bcus i cranked it soo much that the gas washed the oil off the cylinder walls or what

 

after i get the new studs in ill recheck the compression .how do u check ignition timing ...do i use a timing light match it up too the 3 marks ....like rotate the dizzy untill the all line up

 

Please post in your existing thread on this topic instead of creating multiple new threads. Thank you: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...start-3352245/

 

I merged your threads. Please do not create multiple threads for your issue. This will prevent locking and/or bans from occurring.

 

ok so far ive placed the original head back in it replaced the head gasket installed new arp studs to 60 in the right order and torgue 15 30 60 but im still low compression aroud 60 in all 4 the timing marks on the cam and crank line up at tdc for number one ... not sure what ive done wrong the car ran before trying to switch the heads...please help

 

i need help here

 

Please stopping making new threads about your issue on this car. Use this thread for your challenges with this car.

failure to follow this simple direction may result in a ban.

 

Okay, lets start from the top. But before we do, lets make this as painless as possible. Please avoid run on sentences and take the time to format your posts into paragraphs and used correct grammar when at all possible. This will make it easier to read, digest and will likely get more experience responses.

So you've ripped the head off and slapped another head on, then went back to the original head. I did not see mention of how you cleaned the head or block, nor if you checked either for flatness. Nor did you mention using a brand new head gasket each time. Nor did you provide pictures of the block and cylinders with the head off.

Simply, there is extreme amount of detail missing to be able to isolate possible causes for the poor compression.

So, take some time and detail how you did your head job(s) and everything you have done. Omit nothing. This will help immensely. And I realize it's a lot to write up and is why I mentioned formatting your post into digestible pieces known as paragraphs etc.

Pictures help too.

 

ive got a 1992 d15b7...when i was having this problem..i tried everything else and nothing worked...eventually i bought a new ECU from a wrecker for about 100 and that did the trick

 

ECU isn't going to affect compression. There is something mechanically wrong here.

 

ok well i had the head resurfaced .then i checked the head with my valve lash kit and straight edge its within spec. didnt check the deck .probably should have . cleaned both mating surfaces with degreaser and then a dry rag. i copper sprayed the new multi layer head gasket both sides from fel pro its the blue one. installed it the right way [looked it up] with all the holes lining up and the dowels in to hold it in place.

then i installed the arp headstuds with the allen key until they were all at the bottom and level with each other. then wiped down the head surface intill it was clean and dry. placed the head in the studs and tightened then in order 15 to 30 to 60 .
then reinstalled all the lines and sensors and wires put the cam gear back on . crank was at tdc line and gear was positioned with the up facing up and the lines level with the head placed belt back on where i had it marked . cranked it around counterclockwise a few times to check timing marks still lined up ... they did

installed valve cover and distributor ..pulled off cap to make sure dizz wasnt 180 out ...it was good facing number 1, checked all 4 sparkplugs ..they all sparked .

installed plugs and wires in proper firing order ....

checked oil it was between the dots on the dipstick . topped off coolant ...

battery died jumped it nd tried to start it... nothing .... did dry comp test of 1st cyl ...60 peak and it slowly falls lower ...

got my leakdown tester put it tdc 1 hoooked it up and it was in the green but i cld hear the air coming out of somewhere ... it was the dipstick.... now im lost

 

hope this helps tomcat

 

i forgot to check the actual valve lashes omg i just checked the flatness of the head could this be the culprit

 

It's always possible. Valve lash is easy to fix.

Is 60 ft-lbs what is recommended for ARP studs?

Copper spray is not recommended for coated mls gaskets like the fel-pro one but many people do anyway without issue, doubt that has anything to do with it.

Sounds to me like you did everything you are supposed to. If your leak down stays in the green it's fine, it will still have a little air escape naturally, it's not hermetically sealed so air should be able to slowly weasel past the rings naturally. It's just so little it's considered good. aka 10% or less leak down.

By your leakdown results you have good compression. Which then means it's something other than mechanical failing to start. Previous user with ECU comment may very well be applicable.

 

New head gasket?

@b20sedan you got some feedback?

 

Confusing