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After having my windshield replaced last week, my ABS light came on, when I got in my 96 Civic EX sedan and started driving. I’m assuming the windshield has nothing to do with this and is just a coincidence.
That said, the light continues to come on about 5-10 seconds after I start driving. How do I start to figure out what the issue is exactly with ABS?
Have you succeeded in locating the service connector? The arrow is pointing to the green or blue rubber boot that protects the 2-pin service connector. The connector is free (not plugged into anything). Bridge the two connector pins with a paper clip.
Thanks!
No, I haven’t located the service connector, yet; because I wasn’t exactly sure what I was looking for. That diagram pic should help, I appreciate it!
FWIW: I mentioned an unplugged blue connector’s female end, because I saw it on this video, but wasn’t sure if it applied to my 96 Civic...
Have you succeeded in locating the service connector? The arrow is pointing to the green or blue rubber boot that protects the 2-pin service connector. The connector is free (not plugged into anything). Bridge the two connector pins with a paper clip.
Great, thanks!
I removed the kick panel and found my green rubber boot that protects the blue 2-pin service connector, which I unplugged and put a paper clip into the 2 female ends of.
When I turned the ignition to ON(II), I received the following sequences of long flashes followed by short flashes from the ABS light, which appeared to repeat over & over. Seems like a lot; how do I find out what these codes mean?
1-2
1-4
1-6
1-8
5-2
5-4
6-1
Originally Posted by tech8
No, that is the junction connector (20-Brown). Look more to the right, for a small blue connector.
Originally Posted by muellersfan
Remove the kick panel.
Last edited by g4384063; Oct 12, 2020 at 11:23 AM.
Thanks!
I tried this technique, but the ABS light initially came on, when it went off, I took foot off the brake, but the ABS light never came back on, so I wasn’t able to complete the steps. Any other suggestions?
Thanks!
I tried this technique, but the ABS light initially came on, when it went off, I took foot off the brake, but the ABS light never came back on, so I wasn’t able to complete the steps. Any other suggestions? https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1S4O1AqIihM
If the ABS light does not return, then you are good to go.
As for DTC Erasure diagram, those were the steps I was attempting to complete, as per the video I posted.
That said, the very first step in video, which I attempted was to use a wire to connect pin 4 to pin 9 on the OBD2 connector. I’m not if that is the same as your diagram’s step 1, but it wasn’t inside passenger side kick panel.
Originally Posted by muellersfan
Pull the ABS code(s) again. You may now pull only one code, which would greatly focus your troubleshooting.
In your picture, pin 1 is jumped to pin 12 in the DLC connector. This would do nothing. In addition, DLC pins 4 and 9 are unused. Jump the service connector to clear the ABS codes.
Last edited by muellersfan; Oct 14, 2020 at 05:19 AM.
Thanks!
Just to clarify, that pic I posted was a screenshot from the video saying he was jumping pin 4 to pin 9; but I did attempt to jump the same pins.
That said...
1) Where is the DLC fuse location, so I can check to see if it’s blown?
2) Didn’t I already jump the service connector with the paper clip to get the sequence of codes listed above; and are you suggesting to just do the same, but this time as step 1 from the diagram you posted, then complete the rest of the steps, instead of just letting it pump out codes?
Originally Posted by muellersfan
You jumped pin 8 to pin 13, which would blow the DLC fuse. And pins 4 and 9 in the data link connector are unused. Jump the service connector to clear the ABS codes.
Last edited by g4384063; Oct 14, 2020 at 05:49 AM.
What I am saying is that you start over and follow the instructions in the diagram I posted to clear the ABS codes. I think you are saying the same thing below.
Didn’t I already jump the service connector with the paper clip to get the sequence of codes listed above; and you’re suggesting to just do the same, as step 1, but then complete the rest of the steps from the diagram you posted, instead of just letting it pump out codes?
Regarding the DLC fuse, I edited my post:
In your picture, pin 1 is jumped to pin 12 in the DLC connector. This would do nothing.