So, for about 2 weeks now my car won't keep a charge. I'll try to go over everything I know to paint a clear picture. Not sure how much of it is related.

Weekend before labor day I went for a trip. Realize my tail lights are out, my radio kept blowing the fuse, so I disconnected all of that.

Either way,a few weeks later, now my car won't keep a charge. Changed the alternator. Drove it around, turned on the lights and something weird happened so I turned them off real quick. Either way, got back turned it off and was still doing the same thing. Except, when I turned it off there was a clicking sound coming from one of these small, what I assume is a relay? Not sure.

No idea what is causing this. Anybody have any idea what I might need to look at?

 

What year and model vehicle?

 

Sorry, forgot to add that. It's a 01 Honda Accord EX V6

 

Check that Driver's side dash Fuse No. 6 (15A) is not blown. If that fuse is blown, the alternator will not charge. It feeds the Blk/Yel (IG) wire, which supplies the ignition input that turns on the alternator/regulator assembly.

That photo posted looks like the passenger side under-dash fuse box, in the circled areas, those are for diodes. They shouldn't make any clicking noise.

 

I checked it and it was still good. Not sure where to go from there.

 

I re-read your original post. You mentioned radio kept blowing the fuse. Passenger side under-dash Fuse No. 9 (20A) protects and provides power for both the Audio Unit and the Accessory Power Socket. There is an Accessory Power Socket Relay in the circuit. The clicking sound you're hearing is probably from the power socket relay in the passenger side fuse box.

Do have something plugged into the power socket? If you do, it may partly have something to do with it.

Either:
1. The relay may be shorted.

If the relay contacts are stuck, it would constantly supply power to the radio and power socket even when the car is turned off. -- Which could drain your car battery.

Normally, power only goes through the relay when you turn the ignition to the ACC or ON positions.

2. If the relay is not shorted. The Yel/Blk wire coming from Driver side under-dash Fuse No. 8 (7.5A) to the relay may be shorted to another power wire that is always hot. Normally, Fuse No. 8 is only hot in the ACC or ON positions. This would feed power to the relay coil and allow power through the relay contacts from passenger Fuse No. 9.

Try this: Pull driver side Fuse No. 8 out. If the radio can turn on or there is power to the accessory power socket, then there is probably a short in the Yel/Blk wire or the relay is shorted.

Next try this: With driver side Fuse No. 8 put back in; either pull passenger side Fuse No. 9 or the power socket. Does the car battery still drain with the car off?

 

So, I finally got around to checking this out. Haven't started it jumped the car in probably a good 2 weeks, but I pulled that passenger 9 fuse and the car started right up. Don't know if that seems normal, but either way, what do I need to do to correct the issue from having that in. Replace the relay?

 

Make sure the battery is fully charged, drive it around for at least 20 minutes or more to allow the alternator to charge up the battery.

Do these tests first before just pulling out passenger Fuse No. 9.

1. Did you pull driver side Fuse No. 8 out and see if the radio can turn on or if there is power to the accessory power socket even without the fuse?

2. If the radio can still turn on or there is power to the accessory power with driver fuse No. 8 out, then it indicates a short. Afterwards, replace driver fuse no. 8.

3. After step 1 and 2, with ignition off, pull passenger fuse no. 9. or the power socket relay.

Let the car sit till the next day with the fully charged battery. If the battery no longer has excessive drain and can start the car the next day, it may be due to the relay.