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Edit: I re-capped the board, my work turned out pretty clean and the pump primes right away now. But car cranks fast and won't start. Flashing code 8, no other codes. Any help is appreciated.
Having some issues and can't tell if they're related. I had the car tuned a year ago, ripped it around great for a couple months then one day it pegged rich and burnt my wideband. Replaced it, still dumb rich like 9afr part throttle. Shortly after, the doors started randomly locking. Sometimes once in an hour, sometimes 3 times in 5 seconds regardless of key position, totally random. Occasionally the fuel pump doesn't start priming as soon as key is turned, takes a few seconds. Finally got a check engine light for code 8 which is distributor tdc sensor? But I tried a spare dizzy and nothing changed.
Since I can't figure it out and didn't want to wash the cylinders I tuned it to be drivable... but I can't get it perfect, something is off so all correction tables would need huge adjustments. Doesn't seem to run rough or anything just impossible to tune and doing weird things. There's something really wrong and I can't get to the bottom of it.
97 ex stock block eBay turbo 7psi 240k miles
-new plugs
-gapped a little shorter
-checked for vac leaks
-tested spare main relay
-tested fuel pressure, steady
-tps, map, iat seem fine
-more if I remember
It sounds like it could be a systemic electrical system issue. My gut says to check the battery, alternator, and grounds. Do you have an aftermarket keyless entry installed?
It sounds like it could be a systemic electrical system issue. My gut says to check the battery, alternator, and grounds. Do you have an aftermarket keyless entry installed?
nope only aftermarket electrical items are gauges and ecu, I'm going to crack open the ECU and see if there's water damage or anything. I read sometimes the locking mechanism itself goes bad and grounds constantly maybe it's unrelated. I'll also check if the engine itself is grounding right.
One more symptom is sometimes the gauges forget their colors as if the battery was unplugged, but the battery is fine-ish. Code 8 throws me off as I've tested 2 distributors and nothing changes in terms of symptoms and afr. I've just been working on my s2k cuz the civic makes my head hurt lol but I miss the boost.
Code 8 throws me off as I've tested 2 distributors and nothing changes in terms of symptoms and afr.
Code 8 is not limited to a bad distributor and therefore also may be caused by an open or short to ground in either of the two TDC sensor wires running from the distributor connector to the ECU connector. Use a multimeter to test the two wires from the unplugged ECU connector. The tests are not difficult.
Still busy with the s2k and procrastinating on the civic because it's pouring rain. Anyway I noticed a new symptom, fuel pump takes forever to start priming. I tapped the main relay and it came on but might have been coincidence. Can a bad main relay cause a rich condition or is that not a thing? It's a cheap one-off, the OEM one went bad a long time ago.
Well ****, was going to get parts but the pump won't prime at all. Plugged the stock ECU in and it primed right up. Took the p28 lid off and everything looks fine. Might have to go to work tomorrow with the stock ECU, risking some cylinder wash.
Well ****, was going to get parts but the pump won't prime at all. Plugged the stock ECU in and it primed right up. Took the p28 lid off and everything looks fine.
This is actually good news - it means the capacitors have likely failed but not leaked electrolyte onto the board yet, which typically destroys traces and other components around it. Replace the capacitors now before they leak.
This is actually good news - it means the capacitors have likely failed but not leaked electrolyte onto the board yet, which typically destroys traces and other components around it. Replace the capacitors now before they leak.
Alright, I'm back from the dead! I just re-capped the board, the old ones weren't bursting open but they pulled right out and were crusty. The pump primes right away now!!! But... it won't start. Cranks fast, doesn't seem unhappy but just won't start. Where do I go from here? I'm guessing check for continuity between ecu harness and blue wire on dizzy connector? I think the problem was there with my other dizzy so I doubt it's the TDC sensor itself but who knows.
Alright, I'm back from the dead! I just re-capped the board, the old ones weren't bursting open but they pulled right out and were crusty. The pump primes right away now!!! But... it won't start. Cranks fast, doesn't seem unhappy but just won't start. Where do I go from here? I'm guessing check for continuity between ecu harness and blue wire on dizzy connector? I think the problem was there with my other dizzy so I doubt it's the TDC sensor itself but who knows.
verify you have power and the injectors and at the dizzy with a meter (not a test light unless it computer safe) if you have power, it’s either going to be dizzy or ECU related more than likely. Are you getting any codes?
Alright, I'm back from the dead! I just re-capped the board, the old ones weren't bursting open but they pulled right out and were crusty. The pump primes right away now!!! But... it won't start. Cranks fast, doesn't seem unhappy but just won't start. Where do I go from here? I'm guessing check for continuity between ecu harness and blue wire on dizzy connector? I think the problem was there with my other dizzy so I doubt it's the TDC sensor itself but who knows.
What engine?
What ECU chip?
Is code 8 still thrown?
Check for bright spark at the plugs.
Compression test cylinders. If all four are low, the cylinders may be flooded with fuel.
Yes sorry! Had code 8 before and now it's flashing 8. So I think it's either tdc sensor or a break in the wires. With my stock ecu plugged in I get the same code but the OBD2 equivalent. Can't remember the 4 digits.
To re-iterate...
97 Civic EX coupe
Stock d16y8 with eBay turbo 7psi
P28 s300 with jumper harness
Code 8, running rich, doors lock randomly
