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Ok guys im replacing the cheap stupid fan i had on my tegiwa 3row radiator..
I liked the spec of this fan and got it over the classic slim multiblade Spal everyone seems to be using in US. I never liked the slim fan sound and i also liked this fan seems to do well on thicker rads.
So i took my chances and bought this fan.
The reccomended fuse is 30 amps. The big question is.
Do i keep everything as is and just install a 35 amp fuse for the starting amps or ill have to for for the stand alone relay/10 awg wiring etc?
I know most people do just the fuse with most spals but my car electrician was thinky on the phone...
Edit IF and thats a big if the fan below is the slimfan everyone uses at the states, my fan pulls the same m3/h at a moderate 20 mmH2O with a good 4-5-6 amps lower amperage.
Thats the curved blade slimfan everone uses: (?)
Last edited by Balor_Gr; Sep 24, 2020 at 09:42 AM.
I'm using SPL-30101522 https://shop.redline360.com/products...8-cfm-30101522 with stock wiring and fuse. Never had a problem and it works very well. I bought it 2 years ago and I think I chose it cause its the max the stock wiring can handle but I don't remember exactly. For the big daddy ones I think you need a beefier wire and fuse.
I’m running the fan your looking at buying. I have it setup with a relay, it sounds like a turbine while she’s running
Yeah, I've noticed those that purchase that same fan complain it's even louder than the traditional 30102044 that most of us use with better CFM (but require a 40 amp fuse).
I always would say go with a slightly higher fuse, especially if you start to see a large draw of current from your headlights and other accessories.
Well its not the noise i disliked its the pitch if you know what i mean of the slim fan.
Anyway this was a random buy soundwise. I may regret it haha.
I got the fan and its HEAVY AF.something like 4 kilos maybe. And it looks heavy duty. ill post pics tomorrow.
I chickened out on the wiring and a friend thats a car electrician will come to do other stuff like instaling a clifford allarm, checking the devils black magic door wiring that wont get the window down if its closed.
Well he will come with some temrinals and a 5 point relay with some heavyer wiring and he'll do the stand alone wiring.
Ill post sound results. Ill have to mount the radiator better tho cause the fan is 1 inch wider from the china slim fan.
Well its not the noise i disliked its the pitch if you know what i mean of the slim fan.
Anyway this was a random buy soundwise. I may regret it haha.
I got the fan and its HEAVY AF.something like 4 kilos maybe. And it looks heavy duty. ill post pics tomorrow.
I chickened out on the wiring and a friend thats a car electrician will come to do other stuff like instaling a clifford allarm, checking the devils black magic door wiring that wont get the window down if its closed.
Well he will come with some temrinals and a 5 point relay with some heavyer wiring and he'll do the stand alone wiring.
Ill post sound results. Ill have to mount the radiator better tho cause the fan is 1 inch wider from the china slim fan.
I suppose. It's a fan, not a music band. As long as it works better than what you have, it can sound like dying pigeons for all most of us care.
The fan works great in my case. Its the strongest 12" fan I could find that actually pulls proper CFM's. I tried a few that were cheap and had claimed but they didn't do as advertised. Spal has always been consistent in my case.
Ok i installed the fan. I just have good news.
The pitch of the sound is PERFECT. Deep oomf sound not like the vaccum cleaner slim fan.
If you did any pc hardware fan tests its like comapring a 120mm fan with a 180mm fan soundwise. Rush of air type sound. Not "WEEEEEEEEEEE"
Huge amounts of air even through my triple core.
The SPAL wiring is somehow a little bit thinner from the oem honda fan wires. Like one wire size smaller...I was like wtf when i realised it.
Well since the wires are smaller i felt safe keeping the oem wiring stock.
I started with 15 amp fuse. Fan switch was bridged and i was just turning the keys to I to give the fan wiring power. I was letting the fan to come to complete stop.
For the first 10-15 times i gave it power it managed to start and run for 10 seconds with 15 amp fuse. After that it burned.
I then went to 20 amp fuse. 20 attempts later its still alive. I also let it run for 5 mins straight to check if the wires/oem relay for whatever reason will get any warm.
Fan relay got warmth but not hot and the wires probably reached body temperature. Good news.
Ill report back if the 20 amp fuse dies.
The fan is PERFECT so far. There is not reason at all to get the slim fan other than well space (its 1.5+ inch or 4 cm deeper).
If you have space, future reader, get this fan!
Pc of the wire sizes oem vs spal ( blue black vs spal red black)
Last edited by Balor_Gr; Oct 27, 2020 at 03:36 AM.
Spal Fan wiring or just a fuse.
