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i have done a ton of research and cannot find the right kind of combination for my brake setup
I currently have the following :
1990 Civic DX
Fastbrakes adapter
11" Corrado Rotors
Integra GSR Calipers
Hawk HP + Pads
Wilwood 7/8 Master Cylinder
Booster Deleted.
I am finding that my braking is way too soft now and actual stopping power is at the floor.
I originally had the stock DX brake setup with the 7/8 MC and booster delete and found it was too hard.
What would you guys recomens for the perfect booster delete setup on my master cylinder ??
3/4 ? 13/16? or 5/16 ?
Sorry to resurrect a dead thread lol... But I just went through with my installation of the fastbrakes 11" kit on my 91 EF hatch, and I ended up upgrading the MC to the 15/16 bore, but kept the booster. And after many bleeding attempts my brakes still only fully engage about halfway down the pedal stroke When they do engage they feel awesome, and stop great, but I hate how much of a delay I have from pushing the pedal and getting to the point where it pressurizes, its just way too sketchy. I'm not sure what you ended up doing timdareez, but I would love to hear if anything has improved for you!
I actually adjusted the push rod a few times. My old booster had it setup wrong lol, but I guess I could try to vacuum bleed the brakes or something. I bled 2 big bottles of dot3 through that system so far and nothing has changed.
Oh yea, forgot to mention I have rear disk conversion on the rear from a da integra, my bad. But I just did a whole brake overhaul, the front 11" rotor kit with gsr calipers, new pads and rotors all around, braided SS brake lines, New MC and booster. I am just so confused at how it still stays spongey. I really do appreciate the input so far, maybe I do just need to bleed it another round lol
My setup is pretty much identical to yours, 15/16 MC, FB 11 front, rear disc and 4040 prop valve. Pedal feel and stopping power are great.
What is your bleeding procedure? For mine, I followed the service manual's order ( start at furthest, moving to closest brake lines ) and used a pressure bleeder.
It is also important to bench bleed the MC. Did you bench bleed the MC, if so, how?
That's good to hear that its probably not my setup, just something I'm doing wrong haha.
But for my bleeding procedure I just have a friend hop in the drivers seat and put pressure on the brake pedal so I can crack the bleeder. Once the pedal falls to the floor I close the bleeder and let the pedal go back to the top, then repeat until all the bubbles are gone and the fluid looks new. I did do it from the furthest line from the MC and moved to the closest.
I did bleed the MC before I installed it by setting in my vice and filling it with fluid. I then had lines go from the output back to the reservoir and pumped the piston until only fluid came out of the lines.
Also, what type of power bleeder did you use? the one that applies vacuum to the bleeder ports or the style that applies pressure to the MC reservoir?
That's good to hear that its probably not my setup, just something I'm doing wrong haha.
But for my bleeding procedure I just have a friend hop in the drivers seat and put pressure on the brake pedal so I can crack the bleeder. Once the pedal falls to the floor I close the bleeder and let the pedal go back to the top, then repeat until all the bubbles are gone and the fluid looks new. I did do it from the furthest line from the MC and moved to the closest.
I did bleed the MC before I installed it by setting in my vice and filling it with fluid. I then had lines go from the output back to the reservoir and pumped the piston until only fluid came out of the lines.
Also, what type of power bleeder did you use? the one that applies vacuum to the bleeder ports or the style that applies pressure to the MC reservoir?
I have the Motive Power Bleeder, it applies pressure at the MC reservoir. It can be a pain to get it sealed right but it makes brake jobs 100% easier for me. Your bleeding procedure sounds fine to me though.
It might be worth bench bleeding one more time. I did mine on the car by mounting the MC and using dorman bench bleed fittings with clear tubing. I could see the tubing from inside the car and just kept pushing the pedal down until the fluid was clear.
Did you have any issues with your brake booster before the upgrades? Because you mention that pedal feel is good once you get past a certain position, I wonder if you still have a booster or push rod issue like Tyson originally said.
One last thing to check is if any flexible brake lines are blistering.
But really. You keep saying you've done all these things. You have to open to the possibility you missed something or just need to do it again. You're the one with the problems, just go and recheck everything, for your own sake.
I don't care if I'm right. But whatever you find, please report back so other ppl can learn.
I have a 92 CX with original brakes but MC went bad the other day. I purchased a new 13/16” MC and noticed it will not line up with the Honed Booster deleted (New). The booster delete recommmds a horizontal fitting MC when my OE is angled/ off center. Is there a replacement for the 13/16” MC for stock brakes (7/8” or 15/16”) or should I just stick with the OE booster until I upgrade the entire braking system? Thanks Honda Bros.
Booster Delete Master Cylinder Size
When they do engage they feel awesome, and stop great, but I hate how much of a delay I have from pushing the pedal and getting to the point where it pressurizes, its just way too sketchy. I'm not sure what you ended up doing timdareez, but I would love to hear if anything has improved for you!
