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Anyone ever convert their CX/DX/LX/HX secondary oxygen sensor to go through the floor and to the rear of the cat as was done on the EX/Si trims?
I know I know, everyone will say to just use an OBD1 ecu (I do currently) or use some sort of a cheater black box to pass emissions (theoretically I've done that too ) but I'm working on getting this thing officially street legal now.
The extra wiring is easy and I have that all figured out. What I'm working on is getting the hole knocked out under the car. It's unfortunately in a really shitty spot ahead of the dash brace and under the floor ducting inside the cabin, then covered with melt sheet. From underneath it looks like a knockout but I don't know if it's just held in with the melt sheet or if it's spot welded.
Anyone ever take the time to remove the knockout? Should I just drop the catalyst and break out the hole saw now? Or is it worth going in from the top?
I just split the loom back far enough on my y7 that the stock cable would reach that far back. I just had to unloom the plug back to the harness under the intake manifold
Before I went OBD1, I opened the loom and pulled the secondary O2 wiring through the firewall plug and back to the ECU location. Depin the connector and you can pull it through easily, then repin it once it’s in the cabin. The plug pops right out and you’ll have plenty of slack on the O2 wires to connect a new sensor which should have a rubber boot to seal the hole.
That would probably do the job if I had a harness to pull the wire from, but I'm making an extension to run across the dash bar in front of the HVAC stuff. It's not practical to run it along the cabin harness without pulling down the AC and removing all of that stuff.
Good thing I measured again before cutting, would have ended up with a hole 1/2" too big if I hadn't: That would have been embarrassing.
It's in and running. Used a 1 1/8" hole saw, filing the burrs off of the hole was a pain since it comes up right under the floor duct for the hvac system and there's no way to pull that duct out of the way without disassembling a ton of the interior. Used an O2 extension loom I had laying around until I get around to making something a little more svelte.
Converter is the big 2.5" Jeep cat that everyone uses as a high-flow option so there's no room between it and the tunnel to use the original location. Welded a bung behind the cat clocked over toward the shift linkage side a little bit. I'm positive the Ref is going to bounce me for this cat but I need to see what he says about the ITR header... ideally nothing and then I'll put the correct cat in there and be on my way. I don't want to weld up a 2.5" flange and then have to go right home and re-fit it all to a stock manifold so I'm electing to fail once.
Welded a bung behind the cat clocked over toward the shift linkage side a little bit.
Hmmm...Sedan or coupe? Looking for some possible link to difference.
Sedan manual (All LX's were sedans until 2001). Not really a big deal but fun to look sometimes. There were 5 floor pan variations available for 99-00 sedans:
They all crossed over trims but not factories. Example for A20ZZ:
There was an AT and MT version for each factory except for Japan. So they must have also drilled the hole when they built an EX. It's only through the inner layer, the hole is already there in the outer layer. Not sure why Tony's had it open.
Adding Rear Oxygen Sensor EJ6 --> EJ8/EM1
) but I'm working on getting this thing officially street legal now.
