So the passenger side window only rolls down, either with the driver side master switch or through the passenger side switch. The only way I can get it to roll up is to unplug the switch and use 2 paper clips to jumper the plug to directly power the window motor up.

So the window motor seems good since it will roll up and down with jumpers. But I got a used switch from the junkyard and I have the exact same problem. It'll roll the window down but not up.

What gives?

 

It probably is due to broken wire in either the driver's side or passenger side door jamb connectors. Driver's side is opened and closed more; so, higher probability it is on the driver's side. But, it doesn't rule out passenger side connector.

Power from under-dash Fuse No. 10 (20A) feeds both the driver's master switch and the front passenger switch via Grn/Blk wires. Ground has to first go through the driver's master switch, then to the front passenger for the passenger window motor to work. When the switch is pushed to down, voltage and ground are applied to certain wires. When you push it UP, voltage and ground are reversed. In the UP position, most likely one of the wires is broken that would normally supply the ground needed.

 

Yeah that's what I was reading. I believe it's the blue w/orange and the blue w/yellow wires that come from the driver master switch to the passenger switch? Could I just check for continuity from the driver side of the wire to the passenger side of the wire and that would tell me if there's any breaks?

What are the odds the driver master switch itself has gone bad? I could run down to the local pick and pull and find a used switch and try that. If the wiring is good, and the driver and passenger side switches are replaced, there's really nothing else that could be preventing my window from rolling up and down right?

 

Yes, you can test for continuity on those two wires that way.

 

1997, I say that switch board is bound to go out. I'd still follow through with verifying continuity.