I had gone through the process of replacing a few things over time to try to fix my bogging (replace/disable O2 sensors, replace TPS, ECU, plugs and wires, clean EGR passages, disable EGR; ECU reset each time) on my 96 LX. I thought the bogging had gone each time, but it just took longer to resurface. But this time, it's been over 500 miles, and there's no drop in power. Feels the same since the first startup with the new MAP and reset ECU, where things before would gradually degrade with each startup.

I used to bog around 2000RPM, with it getting pretty bad below that, giving a whiplash deceleration feeling no matter how much or little gas I gave it, or how smooth I was with the clutch. Above those RPMs, shifts were better, but still had a bit of a dragging feeling as soon as I let off the clutch and gave more gas. There was also a dip in the powerband around 2500-2800 when accelerating at heavy throttle, and a bit of a jolting feeling at very small on/off throttle inputs while cruising.

Now? All gone! Acceleration is smooth as can be, and low RPM torque has skyrocketed (as much as you can get from an F22B2 ). I knew this would be different from the start, since as soon as I started driving, I had more torque off the line that I knew what to do with. The clutch just slipped where before it would grab and knock me forward into bogging. Now, I can jump off the line pretty nimbly, and there's no deceleration feeling in each gear at lower RPM holding the car back. More low end/midrange torque in general, and I don't have to fight to keep up with traffic anymore. No more dip in the powerband, either.
Best part? The replacement sensor was only $13 shipped!If you're having bogging issues, there's little to lose by giving this a shot. One thing to keep in mind is that the screws holding it in are a pain to remove, since they use a star bit. If you don't have the right bit, just cut a slot for a flathead screwdriver to fit with a dremel, or just lop the tops off or drill them out. The threaded part will easily unscrew after that. Then just get some matching length M4 x 0.7 screws (I forgot the exact length) from Home Depot/Lowes for under $1 and you're set.

 

I wouldn't expect much out of a car that is quarter century old.

 

Great job, always good to read these. I feel I am only a step away from some problem with a car this old. So I thank goodness each day it's out driving fine. Every day it works is another dollar in my pocket saved from not buying a new car!

 

Good on you for getting it handled. I get tickled when I see people using their mind to solve an issue and press on. How did you figure out it was the MAP sensor? Was it just a process of elimination?

 

In my case it was the MAP and TPS socket wire. Replace the socket and recheck the wire partly solve the issue. Slight hesitation remains on low rpm, particularly under AC load