1988 civic with b18a1 swap problems
Hello first post here.
(STORY PART. SKIP IF NOT INTRESTED)
"So about 6 month's ago I snatched up a 88 civic with a b18a1 swap. Pretty basic and was running perfect for a while and was my daily. About 2 weeks ago I went to chicago to visit my father with another car so it sat for about a week. I came back and was gonna take it out for a bit and drove to my friends for a couple hours when I came back it down poured really bad. It was running fine when I got home and thought nothing was wrong. The next day went out to goto work and it didn't want to start didn't get a chance to look at that time and decided work was more important."
(What's wrong)
So i came home and checked the main things like fuel. (Pump, injectors, lines, etc) was all fine then went to the air and it was clean and looking good. So I looked at the spark plugs and seen the plugs had oil on them and there was corrosion on the wires. So I changed the spark plugs the wires and the valve cover gasket. No more leaking but still didn't run. So I check the dizzy and there was corrosion on the cap prongs and the rotor. I changed both of them with new parts. I am getting spark and they are in the right order and it still doesn't want to start up. I checked the wiring harness and the computer and they both seemed to be fine. Any questions i can answer just ask. I dont know what's up I dont know what to do at this time. Anything helps thanks for reading my stupid story.
Edit 1. the starter works fine and everything. When I turn the keep it's like ot wants to kick over but keeps trying to turn over.
Edit 2. I got it to start on staring fluid but dies right after. So I believe the injectors aren't working correctly.
(STORY PART. SKIP IF NOT INTRESTED)
"So about 6 month's ago I snatched up a 88 civic with a b18a1 swap. Pretty basic and was running perfect for a while and was my daily. About 2 weeks ago I went to chicago to visit my father with another car so it sat for about a week. I came back and was gonna take it out for a bit and drove to my friends for a couple hours when I came back it down poured really bad. It was running fine when I got home and thought nothing was wrong. The next day went out to goto work and it didn't want to start didn't get a chance to look at that time and decided work was more important."
(What's wrong)
So i came home and checked the main things like fuel. (Pump, injectors, lines, etc) was all fine then went to the air and it was clean and looking good. So I looked at the spark plugs and seen the plugs had oil on them and there was corrosion on the wires. So I changed the spark plugs the wires and the valve cover gasket. No more leaking but still didn't run. So I check the dizzy and there was corrosion on the cap prongs and the rotor. I changed both of them with new parts. I am getting spark and they are in the right order and it still doesn't want to start up. I checked the wiring harness and the computer and they both seemed to be fine. Any questions i can answer just ask. I dont know what's up I dont know what to do at this time. Anything helps thanks for reading my stupid story.
Edit 1. the starter works fine and everything. When I turn the keep it's like ot wants to kick over but keeps trying to turn over.
Edit 2. I got it to start on staring fluid but dies right after. So I believe the injectors aren't working correctly.
Last edited by Cerberus Dubs; Jul 16, 2020 at 05:34 AM.
So you have verified that you are getting pressure at the rail and don't have a clogged line or filter?
All fuses are good? Especially check the 15A ECU fuse.
Does the fuel pump run for 2 seconds then stop when you first turn the key to the on position (not cranking it)?
Are you getting a bright (blue or white) spark when you test for spark, or a dull (yellow) spark?
Is your thermostat housing ground clean and tight? Look over your other grounds: 1 - transmission to chassis. 2 - negative battery post to chassis. 3 - valve cover stud (not just the valve cover) to chassis.
All fuses are good? Especially check the 15A ECU fuse.
Does the fuel pump run for 2 seconds then stop when you first turn the key to the on position (not cranking it)?
Are you getting a bright (blue or white) spark when you test for spark, or a dull (yellow) spark?
Is your thermostat housing ground clean and tight? Look over your other grounds: 1 - transmission to chassis. 2 - negative battery post to chassis. 3 - valve cover stud (not just the valve cover) to chassis.
So you have verified that you are getting pressure at the rail and don't have a clogged line or filter?
All fuses are good? Especially check the 15A ECU fuse.
Does the fuel pump run for 2 seconds then stop when you first turn the key to the on position (not cranking it)?
Are you getting a bright (blue or white) spark when you test for spark, or a dull (yellow) spark?
Is your thermostat housing ground clean and tight? Look over your other grounds: 1 - transmission to chassis. 2 - negative battery post to chassis. 3 - valve cover stud (not just the valve cover) to chassis.
All fuses are good? Especially check the 15A ECU fuse.
Does the fuel pump run for 2 seconds then stop when you first turn the key to the on position (not cranking it)?
Are you getting a bright (blue or white) spark when you test for spark, or a dull (yellow) spark?
Is your thermostat housing ground clean and tight? Look over your other grounds: 1 - transmission to chassis. 2 - negative battery post to chassis. 3 - valve cover stud (not just the valve cover) to chassis.
You can rent a noid light set from your local auto parts store to see if your ECU is trying to fire the injectors. This may help you isolate the issue between the injectors or ECU/wiring if it is indeed a fuel problem.
edit
I tested the connectors with a multi meter and getting zero volts on them. One of them had had a jump to 0.055 volts but that might just be nothing. The wires aren't split anywhere. So I dont know what to do. Should I run new wires to the ecu or somthing else ?
Last edited by Cerberus Dubs; Jul 18, 2020 at 05:11 PM.
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