I have a 97 civic ex coupe and I recently have done a motor swap on it. In the process of everything i realized my fuel pump wasn’t making noise when I turn it to acc. So I replaced the fuel pump, still no pressure and the I replaced the fuel main relay but it still wont pump fuel. I even put the old fuel relay in and still no noise or fuel pressure. Can someone help me out with this?

 

The fuel pump runs when the key is turned to ON(II) not ACC.

Does the starter crank the engine?

Did you forget to attach the G3 transmission ground and/or the G101 ground on the thermostat housing?

Posting pics is always helpful.

 

Ok first I did mean the ON position not Acc. But even when I crank the motor I am still not getting any fuel pressure nor do I hear any fuel pump sounds.

Also I do have all my grounds hooked up, the ones to the thermostat, transmission and valve cover.

 

Turn key to ON(II).

Does the CEL turn on and stay on steady, or does it turn on and then off after 2 seconds?

 

What is the CEL? Is this the fuel pump or the check engine light where talking about when I turn the key on? If it’s either then no both don’t do anything

 

Remove the cluster to see whether the check engine light (CEL) bulb was removed or is burned out. Install a new bulb so that you have a functional CEL to pull codes from the ECU.

What engine and ECU are installed in the car?

 

I have seen the engine light turn on once before but it never has since, same thing with the seat belt light. Do you think that the one bulb is out? Every other light comes on besides those two.

Next I did a 1989 JDM b16a swap in my 97 ek civic, I have changed all the engine accessories to obd2 or 99si parts. My wire harness was trashed so I got a 96ex auto engine harness and modified it to work. I also am running a obd1 p30 ecu with a obd2 to obd1 jumper harness, I’m not sure which county it’s from tho

 

Pull the cluster. The CEL bulb may be blown. If so, replace it. You need the CEL working because it's a very helpful diagnostic tool.

In the meantime, check whether 15A hood fuse 44 and/or 15A dash fuse 13 is blown.

 

What are those fuses to?

 

ECU, main relay, fuel pump.

 

There are a few different 15v fuses under the hood and same with under the dash. Can you show me which ones are which in the pics I took of my car

 

Fuse 44 looks to be crookedly inserted.

 

 

Ok those diagrams helped me so much I can’t explain. So first thing is I took out my cluster and found that my engine light bulb was indeed blown, I have no idea why but I suspect the same thing for my seat belt light and oil pressure light because they both worked before until recently.

Second I checked both those fuses you said to look at and they both looked connected so I don’t know what would be making the fuel system not work at all. Another thing is now with the bulb fixed my check engine light just stays lit up when the key is turned to ON what does this mean?


Fuse under the hood

Fuse under the dash

Check engine light is now lit up constantly when key is turned to on, but oil pressure and seat belt lights both are not anymore.

 

1) Reinstall the fuses. Does CEL still remain on steady?

2) There is a 2-pin service connector located above the ECU, which is below the glovebox and behind the passenger side kick panel.

Remove kick panel. Use a paperclip to short the two pins of the service connector. Then turn key to ON(II) position. The working CEL will either blink CEL codes or just stay on steady as before. Post the test outcome.

If codes blink, it is telling you the codes thrown.

3) Do you have a multimeter? Are you willing to try or learn some electrical tests?

 

Ok hold on so where is this connector because I’m having trouble finding it where you said it was, and second how will I know what codes will be thrown if it’s just flashing ?

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...lists-1901557/

Long fash = 10
short flash = 1

 

Sometimes it has a green rubber case over the service plug! but its there!

 

Ok so I know this is a dumb question but will I have obd2 codes because it’s the ek chassis. If so can I just use a obd2 code reader? Or will I have obd1 codes because of the obd1 ecu?

 

An OBD2 code reader won't work on an OBD1 ECU.

OBD1 codes must be retrieved using the method I described.

 

Just wanted to add there is a product sold by, Although for some maybe over kill and the method muellersfan suggested works fine but I was given one free recently and wanted to share it.

https://www.facebook.com/pg/Street2D...=page_internal


Product Details
this an idea we came up with to simplify the old-school obd1 code reading process. it hangs on your keychain ready for use. no more having to look for a paperclip or wire and I no more having to google the codes. simply plug it in and scan the QR label for all the obd1 codes and also a instructional video. EVERYONE THATS INTO OLD HONDAS SHOULD ABSOLUTELY HAVE ONE.