Alright so I finally decided to build my bottom end on my b16a2....ended up going wiseco 81.5mm pistons(8.8.1 CR) and eagle rods and also got my crank polished. Car definitely feels a lot slower than it was lol, im pretty sure its due to the change in CR right,I believe stock b16s CR is 10.2.1 ? Previous setup was just I/H/E stock cam nothing major but I can definitely feel the difference. Just wanted get confirmation that the change in CR was the reason the car felt slower. And yes car will be getting a turbo soon but for now its NA while I gather all the parts I need and break the engine in

 

Yep the change in cr plays a big roll on how much torque/ power you get out of it. Once you go boost you’ll gain it all back plus more. But why did you choose so low of cr pistons?

you could have stayed stock b16 compression and it’ll gain more power when you boost.

 

At the time there was only two sets of pistons available on the website I ordered them from which were these and the other ones were 11.1 CR. I did some research and read that high comp and boost were no good?? Mind you I had placed my order when the outbreak was bad and my order had already been delayed so I didn’t feel like canceling my order after waiting a while, I should’ve been patient and tried to get some in 9-10 ratio. Would more aggressive cams boost my CR ?

 

I don’t think it will raise compression but Mayb will help you out with it. I’ve always stuck to oem ctr cams in my turbo build with 9.4cp Carrillo pistons and a ls crank/ ls Eagle rods. My goal is 500whp and I’m happy with it on the street. Never cared for much aftermarket cams I don’t plan to push more than what I have on the street.

 

what turbo setup are you running and are you running on pump gas or e85...500 is definitely a solid number man I would be happy with that too but I guess I’ll see how far I can go staying on pump gas cause there’s literally no e85 stations near me lol. As long as the car makes 400+ hp I’ll be satisfied

 

im running old school Garrett 60-1 with a 44mm tial 10psi spring and a hallman MBC tuned on Hondata v3 on 93 pump.

yea even 400whp is perfect for the street you’ll be ripping the streets easily.

 

One more question lol..did the change in CR affect my AFR, seems to be running a little rich and am I causing any harm to the engine by running it like that ?

 

yes it can affect your afr since your running lower compression pistons your not needing all the fuel that it’s supplying from the stock setup pistons and what the ecu was tuned for.

do you have an afr gauge? What is it reading? And what tuning management are you running?

 

its running on a stock p2t ecu, not chipped or anything as I said earlier car had a very basic setup before so I never bothered on getting it tuned. Guess im gonna buy a afr gauge now, but it running rich doesn’t cause any damage right ?? I’d rather have it running rich than lean lol but im gonna get that fixed asap

 

running too rich will wash out your rings and hone job and won’t be able to seal correctly. You won’t know if your rich until you get an afr gauge. At the very least if you don’t have the funds get a chipped ecu from phearable and tell them your setup and they should get you in the ball park of your afr until you get the funds to get a Hondata S300 and get it tuned.

 

yea I was planning on running Hondata once I got my turbo setup but for now cant I just get my ecu chipped ? I know for sure that its running rich cause my mpg is worse than it used to be and car was running lean before I built the block so I know how it sounds/feels

 

you can run it IF the afr is within the limits of driving, but make sure you get that wideband gauge that’s goin to be the lifeline on the engine bro. Get a chip from phearable like I mentioned, I wouldn’t drive the car until you have that wideband to tell you if your in the correct afr range. Otherwise it’s a hit and miss while driving without knowing the afr and you’ll do more damage to it.

 

Finally got the AFR gauge installed and it is running really rich lol it read 17-18 so I’m gonna get me a chipped p28 since I couldn’t find any chips for the p2t. I already have the jumper harness to run a p28 in my car but do I have to change my dizzy to obd1 or that doesn’t matter ?

 

that’s lean af bro rich is in the 10s. You’ll burn a hole in the pistons so I wouldn’t drive it till you get your fuel adjusted.

 

You shouldn’t have to change distributor just get that chipped p28 from phearable and make sure you tell them your setup.