1991 Honda Accord ex f22b4 engine with a swapped (supposedly) 91 lx transmission. Vss is different as to my ex has 2 hose connectors coming from it that attach to 2 pipes correctly Infront of the heater blower I think?


My fans are always on with key turned to on and or engine start. Realize thermo fan switch connectors weren't looking so hot so I stripped them and added simple disconnects to slip over the prongs instead of using the actual plug. They could be crossing and shorting regardless my main question is can a bad thermostat also cause this issue? Honestly not to bad of an issue because if the fans are on the engine stays cooler right? Overheats but I had a coolant leak at the entrance from water pipe to water pump so not in question on over heating.

More serious thing is my exhaust. Now I didn't expect to keep this car after slipping a bearing so I ended up selling my cat. Well I decided to rebuild and keep it but didn't replace the cat. So the car is running with no cat and no muffler but pipping is all there and resonator. Would this cause an issue with the 02 sensor or something because the car seems to big between 4-5k rpms when putting on load going up a hill. Downshift into 1st and it acts like it is redlining and I have to just take it slow...

My fuel pump also wasn't priming however after a few cranks it would start and fuel would be delivered and it ran. I replaced the main relay and now the fuel pump constantly runs when switched to on or start. Will start first time and runs decent little rough idle and idle sits at 800 neutral and maybe drops to 6-500 In gear the vibrating will stop if I apply little gas get get rpms to about 1.1k. timing might be off.

Timing... My drive plate has no markings. Also I see no markings on the pulley... Is there an alternative way to set ignition timing?

 

Do you even have an O2 sensor installed? Without it, it's going to run in a default mode, and can't dyanmically adjust to anything. Without it, car has more difficulty dealing wiht driving around.
I would put in a cat personally.

The markings are very small on the crank pully, like just little dots. If a car is really dirty, you might not see them. I missed seeing them before.

If you really have none, then I think you will need to take off the plastic cover so you can look at the chain/belt directly and look for those marks.

 

I'll have to double check the dots when I get back home, Monday.. my O2 sensor is installed it is on a separate section right before the cat which I just replaced with flex pipping from AutoZone. The O2 sensor isn't throwing any sort of code but I was thinking if the sensor wasnt picking up the amount it was supposed to detect and thought there was a bad mixture of air and fuel if it would cause it to bog. I haven't tried running it unplugged yet. Ultimate plan is definitely to out a cat in and also a muffler. Just trying to troubleshoot a problem at a time.

 

Also do all crank pulleys have the markings because I used my ex pulley which I just remember a single arrow but the other pulley I have from another engine I pulled has 3 huge circles drilled out of it I was assuming it was for weight balancing. They were all placed next to each other and probably the size of a quarter eat.

 

I suppose anything is possible. But the ones I've seen have three little marks close together and then one mark further away by itself.

The three marks that are together are for setting ignition timing. The single mark by itself is #1 piston at TDC.

 

Ok. Might have to pop the other pulley on to get it done. I also have a drive plate with the markings but I don't want to go through the hassle without a hoist it was hard enough dropping it the first time with just a trailer strap. Thanks for that tip .

 

90-93 the timing marks are on the flywheel/driveplate. Driveplate should have notches in it, the pain may have worn off, just look for the notches. White would be TDC, Red would be base timing. Might also just be a line(TDC) and a 'T'(ignition). But this is on the bent flange of the driveplate. If your TC/driveplate is out of an Ody the drive plate does not have a bent flange and there are no markings.
Look for the four letter code on a bar code sticker mounted to the front of the trans case. That will identify where the trans originated.

If the thermostat was bust the fans would only come on when the engine got up to temp, not when you turned the ignition to ON. That's an electrical issue, either a bad thermo sensor, bad fan timer, bad relay(s) or some other electrical problem. Check for any hacked wiring.
If you bleed the air out of the cooling system correctly through the bleeder nipple on the thermostat, the temp should be stable. Make sure to fix any leaky hoses, those will let air into the system which will get trapped and cause overheating. Which can lead to a blown head gasket if not careful.

O2S will affect driveablility if it is damaged but may not trip a code. Verify there are no wiring issues with the O2 and the exhaust is properly pateched up. If air is leaking into the exhaust it can affect the O2S reading.

Fuel pump should prime and then the timer in the ECM should kick it off if the car is not started after a few seconds.

I'm guessing there has been some re-wiring or damaged wiring of the car at some point. Too many electrical oddities going on.