I replaced the head gasket and the heater core, but realized that I had not reconnected the heater control cable until I was nearly finished--after I reinstalled the heater core, dash, and most of its components.
After contorting with a flashlight and getting video with my cellphone I finally found the end of the cable and connected it here, but nothing moves when I adjust the temperature ****. Is something loose inside?

Broken?

Do I need to remove the dash and heater core again?!

These are all of the images that I could find. When I move the cable under the hood it just bends under the heater core, it doesn't push anything.

 

See this other thread (post # 2) for the service manual section regarding adjustment of the air mix control cable.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...s-hot-3079605/

 

Thanks! That helps! This is the 1999 - 2000 version:

The instructions are only 9 steps and 5 diagrams, but it refers to other sections so many times that my Word document is 13 pages and at least 25 diagrams. It does not say how to remove the cross member under the glovebox (just four screws) and something else. I needed to print out a page for the SRS and now this.

Those instructions will be 18 pages when I post my write-up!

 

The cable to the box, that goes into the engine bay looks rusted and damaged

 

Chrysler Kid! How have you been?!

Did you zoom in on one of the pictures that I posted? I just shared ones that I found on-line. My cable does not look rusted, although that clip is.

I have bigger issues, though:

The new one is worse!
I wish that I tested this before I installed it!
Testing seems straightforward enough, two rubber corks, a Schrader valve, and a bike pump. Drill a hole for the Schrader valve in a cork, plug both ends, and pump to the pressure rating on the radiator cap.
Well, it will not take 3.5 months the second time...

 

Hey guys, I thought that I figured out how to properly test a heater core before installing it. I trimmed down a Schrader valve to fit in one hole, inserted a rubber plug into another, and used these two mending braces, bolts, washers, and nuts to keep the Schrader valve in the hole. The cooling system is rated for 16 PSI, so I took the bike pump to 16 PSI, set a timer for an hour to ensure that the core holds pressure, and just a few minutes later the pressure was gone.
Is the problem with my core or my rig?
Oh! How do I remove a rubber stopper from a hole?! My rig pushed it almost all of the way in!

 

Use soapy water to pinpoint the site of air leak.

 

The heater core fins trap a great deal of air and I would be unable to distinguish leaking air from bubbles just trapped by the fins.

 

You can test the entire cooling system with a cooling system pressure tester you can rent at an auto parts store. You clip the hand pump to the radiator cap and it pressurizes the cooling system to rad cap pressure

If you are using the bike pump for air pressure you could pour in some uv dye from the auto parts store before you pressurized it, pump up the pressure and then shake the dye around a little bit. And come back later and inspect for uv dye leak

 

The cooling system pressure tester wouldn't help me before I install the heater core.

 

Don't talk yourself out of a tried and true method. Do the test in still air conditions (e.g., inside garage with doors closed) to avoid complications of wind. Carefully watch for bubbles that grow in size.

 

I tested myself out of a clearly flawed method. Try again.

 

This Civic forum seems to be a magnet for naive posters.

 

He only wants to test the heater core before he installs it. This part isn't sold at Honda anymore so it would be best to check it before installing it. HOWEVER, that doesn't mean it's not going to leak down the road.

 

Pressurize the heater core with the desired amount of air, then submerge the entire heater core into a bucket/deep pan of water and watch for air bubbles. Vigorously shaking the heater core under water should exorcise any air bubbles trapped in the fins.

 

I drowned it under a brick on Saturday. After twelve hours I could not see any additional bubbles. I inserted the plug and Schrader valve, bolted on the brackets, pressurized it, and there were some slow bubbles coming from the bike pump itself, so I disconnected it. There were not any visible bubbles, but when I returned a couple of hours later all of the air was gone.
There seems to be a slow leak.

 

Fill the core with water and then pressurize it with air.



I've also torn the dash out of 3 or 4 of these cars now to tell you that it's a 45 minute job and you can drive the car around without the dash shell so you can inspect the core area itself for leaks