Timing belt and water pump
I have a 2002 Accord 2.3 manual. My water pump went out and radiator blew out the bottom end. I did not know the water pump was bad until after I replaced the radiator and the coolant wouldn't circulate. So now I have replaced the water pump as well as the timing belt, tensioner and all necessary gaskets of course. Got it all back together. I thought that I had the timing lined up, but I must not because it cranks, but won't turn over. I pulled the valve cover back off and rotated the motor two times. All marks line up and the distributor points at #1 and #1 valves are open. I am unsure of where to go from this point or if the positioning is correct. Anyone got any pointers? Thanks!
I would check of couple of things.
1 - In working on the area, did you put back all the grounds to the engine block. I seem to recall one near the motor mount on the drivers side.
2 - Did you take anything else apart that might have had to do with spark or fuel? For example, maybe you unplugged the distributor from the power to the battery or unplugged somethng from the starter area or battery area, such as another ground?
At the end of the day, it sounds like you need to verify spark and fuel. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge (or borrow it from autozone/parts store) and can you verify spark, perhaps by pulling one spark plug and testing with a screwdriver to see the spark happening?
1 - In working on the area, did you put back all the grounds to the engine block. I seem to recall one near the motor mount on the drivers side.
2 - Did you take anything else apart that might have had to do with spark or fuel? For example, maybe you unplugged the distributor from the power to the battery or unplugged somethng from the starter area or battery area, such as another ground?
At the end of the day, it sounds like you need to verify spark and fuel. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge (or borrow it from autozone/parts store) and can you verify spark, perhaps by pulling one spark plug and testing with a screwdriver to see the spark happening?
Do a compression test on all cylinders.
What the WP gave out, if the timing came out of synch, it's possible a valve made contact to the piston and now your head is toast. If that is the case, you'll have no or low compression.
What the WP gave out, if the timing came out of synch, it's possible a valve made contact to the piston and now your head is toast. If that is the case, you'll have no or low compression.
Yes... So how do I fix this? First I'm going to double check and make sure I am correct on the valve position. I thought they were open when I was writing this post, but now that I think about it, they were up. Which means they were closed. Back out to the car to confirm that. I'm not a dumb ***! I think I just mistyped that and now I need to check the car again to be sure. Lol 😆
I would check of couple of things.
1 - In working on the area, did you put back all the grounds to the engine block. I seem to recall one near the motor mount on the drivers side.
2 - Did you take anything else apart that might have had to do with spark or fuel? For example, maybe you unplugged the distributor from the power to the battery or unplugged somethng from the starter area or battery area, such as another ground?
At the end of the day, it sounds like you need to verify spark and fuel. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge (or borrow it from autozone/parts store) and can you verify spark, perhaps by pulling one spark plug and testing with a screwdriver to see the spark happening?
1 - In working on the area, did you put back all the grounds to the engine block. I seem to recall one near the motor mount on the drivers side.
2 - Did you take anything else apart that might have had to do with spark or fuel? For example, maybe you unplugged the distributor from the power to the battery or unplugged somethng from the starter area or battery area, such as another ground?
At the end of the day, it sounds like you need to verify spark and fuel. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge (or borrow it from autozone/parts store) and can you verify spark, perhaps by pulling one spark plug and testing with a screwdriver to see the spark happening?
A few months ago the key broke off in the ignition. I was unable to get the broken and put of the ignition. Luckily enough the car would still start with the transponder and somewhat in the ignition. So I was still able to start and drive my car. Well, that is the only key I have. So I couldn't lock my car and be able to get back in and NO, I don't have a remote to the keyless entry. All of this leads to me disconnecting the alarm sensors on my doors. Well I disconnected the battery in doing this water pump and timing belt. When I got it all back together and turned the key to start it, it did start for about 3 to 5 seconds and died. I tried to start it a second time and then it would only crank and not turn over.
So, crossing fingers.... I'll keep you posted.
P.S. I do have 2 blank keys and 2 new fobs to be to take to the locksmith once I get it back on the road!
The fob you can program yourself. doesn't take much effort.
https://northcoastkeyless.com/2002-h...-instructions/
Should take you 5 miniutes, if you can turn the ignition on a few times.
https://northcoastkeyless.com/2002-h...-instructions/
Should take you 5 miniutes, if you can turn the ignition on a few times.
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