Just out of curiosity anyone else get screwed over by Honda on this https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...15802-9999.pdf
can't see the recommendation rotate torque converter back one bolt working. Thanks, Lee

 

Why not?

 

When the engine stops the bad teeth on the flywheel stop anywhere. Thus hows moving the converter back 1 bolt going to fix problem. Didnt learn about tsb till after replacing starter and the same problem. So i knew it couldnt be 2 bad starters.

 

That is incorrect. The flywheel is not freewheeling.

The TSB procedure is valid and works. Ive done it at least a dozen times.

 

Thanks I'll give it a try.

 

For clarification, the flywheel will typically stop in the same 2, 3 or 4 positions, depending if the vehicle is a 4, 6, or 8 cylinder motor.

Now this isn't written in stone and the engine can certainly stop where it wants, but physics seem to dictate that the engine will stop on or before the compression stroke once its turned off. This phenomena is repeatable enough that it has been generally accepted in the automotive community.

The TSB outlines a requirement for a new starter motor with closer clearance tolerances and to move the flywheel so as to avoid the new starter clashing with worn flywheel teeth.

Its always worked for me, however I have colleagues who say it didnt work for them and the vehicle needed a new starter and a new flywheel.

 

I had replaced the starter only, three years back thinking it was a bad starter. I purchased the car new and I'm in and out of it 9/10 times a day. I figured it was just a bad starter. After a month same problem. I knew something was up and looked up 2013 Honda starter problems. I called Honda (I was out of warranty mileage wise) and they pretty much brushed it off. Looks like I have to order another starter, easy enough. Any recommendations on a flywheel tool? Thanks BTW how bad is it by you with this Covid 19?

 

Hello,

I will be completing the TSB16-002 service. Would anyone have the torque specs for the starter bolts and the torque converter bolts?

thanks you

 

They are listed in the service bulletin.

 

Any thoughts on what tool to use turn the flywheel or motor? Thanks

 

I used a socket (I think it was a 19 mm) with a long extension and ratchet to rotate the crankshaft.

 

Does the starter need to be replaced or can one get by just advancing the flywheel?

Will an after market starter work or does it need to be OE?

TIA

 

Seems to be hit or miss. The TSB suggests both the starter needs to be replaced and the flywheel moved. Ive had success with only moving the flywheel.

I only recommend Denso as an aftermarket alternative.

 

If I pull the TC inspection cover, should I be able to see damaged teeth on the FW/TC?

The noise, when the car doesn’t start, sounds like the solenoid isn’t engaging. When the starter engages, there is no odd noise?

 

The TSB isnt for "no start" its for gear clashing on start up.

 

When she gets the “no start,” it sounds like the solenoid is not kicking the starter gear into the flywheel. When the car starts, there is no gear clash. I want to hear it a few more times before I am sure. This is intermittent. Thanks for the replies.

 

Hope you are well and safe. I was able to do the TSB by myself (hot wired the starter). As soon as I started rotating the engine to put the bolts back in; I knew it would work. Thanks for the physics lesson.

 

Cool.

Thanks for the follow up. So few people do that here and it leaves readers wondering of the outcome and whether or not it can help their situation.

 

hi everyone, I had the same issue with my 2014 Honda Accord V6. Had the starter replaced and the torque converter rotated one bolt and have been good ever since. However, I’ve had 2 incidents where there is a vacuum sound or something spinning when hitting the push to start button. I’d describe it more of a vacuum noise. But on the second attempt it starts up no problem. Again only happened twice. Is this something normal?

 

Thanks! I know you may not see this, but I appreciate the link and the information.

I have a Honda Accord 2013 EX-L. Had the starter replaced recently, and didn't have any trouble with gears engaging until just recently. The dealer wants to charge $3,600 to take the engine out and fix the ring gear (and whatever else). When someone said I could probably replace the engine for less, I decided to look into alternatives. Can't understand why they wouldn't just rotate it, like in the tech paper, but I guess I can't expect mechanics to have everything memorized. Maybe someone there should do some research on this kind of thing before taking drastic measures.

 

Hi,
I forgot all about this post. You are referring to the v6? Odd that this should surface so many years later. If it truly is the bad teeth on the fly wheel. Acts like a bad starter grinding when you go to start say every 10 x or so. The TSB, actually worked. The hardest thing to figure out was rotating the motor, easily.

 

Hi Lee. Just wondering on two things. First when you say you hot wired the starter I assume that means to rotate the ring gear/torque converter. If true I am wondering how that works as you progressively remove more and more of the 8 bolts. Wouldn't the ring gear/torque converter be wobbling as you activated the starter each time when there are fewer and fewer bolts securing it?
Secondly, when you say that you knew it would work as soon as you started rotating the engine to put the bolts back in. What did you seen that let you know it was going to work?
Thanks, Greg

 

Hey Greg,
Forgot all about this post. I was kind of concerned rotating the motor and down to one small bolt holding the converter to the motor. Since your are just tapping the motor forward as opposed to the motor running with one bolt holding the converter. Obviously, I can't guarantee nothing will happen but it was quite easy to move the converter one bolt.
When I was bolting the converter back up tapping the engine; it sounded different, knowing the TSB worked.
Lee

 

Okay thanks for that feedback Lee.
And Two question for everyone. The TSB INCLUDES:
"POSSIBLE CAUSES The clearance between the starter motor gear and the torque converter ring gear is not optimal. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the starter and rotate the torque converter clockwise one bolt hole"
---Does anyone know in what respect the clearance is not optimal? For instance with the starter mounted is the starter gear too close to the ring gear so having a shim between the starter flange and the engine would correct it? Or the starter gear is too far away from the ring gear? Or...?
---Does performing the TSB 16-02, including putting in a new starter and rotating the torque converter one bolt hole, somehow fix the "clearance non-optimal situation" so that the clearance is now optimal? If yes, can you please share detail as to how it specifically corrects the clearance issue?
Thanks,
Greg