I have a 99 prelude H23A "blue top" swapped. It was running fine until i burnt a valve... I decided to port and build the head, ARP studs, 0.051k cometic head gasket, skunk2 pro IM/ 70MM TB/ VTEC solenoid, gates belt, manual timing tensioner, water pump, MSD coil/VMS cap and wires, header, AEM 340 pump/ GE rail/ 1000cc injectors, P28/ HONDATA, nitrous, mishimoto set up... I relocated the batyery, fuse box, alternator... Deleted PS/ AC/ EVAP.... Got it all back together and trying to get it started " with stock injectors and stock ECU, i even tried my P28. Im getting spark and fuel... It will not even pop, back fire, or anything. Just cranks over and sounds a lot different than before. It sounds like it has low compression or its just because i havent heard it turn over in 4 months since i tore it down. Wont even try to start with starting fluid. WTF. Am i 180° out on the timing? It would at least back fire if that was the case right? Im stuck, im about to do the timing over again but thought id ask if anyone can help before i do it.



Ferrea comp plus valves, supertech springs, titanium retainers, keepers, seals, guides, light port, stock cams/ gears

Before and after

 

Who did the valve adjustment after the head was worked ?

 

Make sure you've got the firing order right.

 

I did the valve adjustment, and yes the wires are correct on firing order, ive even tried my wires, cap and rotor that was on the car when it ran last. I know if the valve adjustment is too tight it will cause no start, i tripple checked them before putting my valve cover on.... I guess ill try it again and maybe not have them so tight

 

You cannot be 180 out on timing. The slot in the cam is machined to only accept the distributor one way. My guess is either mechanical timing is off or your coil/distributor is dead or not setup correctly.

Back to basics and you will find the answer quickly. Check for spark, fuel and compression. Go from there.


Also unrelated by possibly helpful: Keep the nitrous shot mild and only engage it around 5000rpm or above. That is unless you want one or more of your rods to come through the block like the kool-aid man.