Hey everyone. I finished my H23A Bluetop swap about a couple of months ago from an H23a1. Although, I'm having issues at the moment with the engine performance. The car starts and run but the moment I step on the gas, the motor will want to die. Also, I realized that their is fuel smell from all four spark plug wells and I have to tap on the gas every first start in order to get the car started.

ECU:
P28 from Phearable and I have them to set my ecu to be nearly stock. Maybe I have wrong injectors that aren't actually 345cc? I bought these from ebay that were supposedly rebuilt and are 345cc.

Fuel System:
I have ensured that the car does indeed hold at least 40psi. Maybe wrong fuel injectors. Also I have tons of water coming out on the back of my tailpipe but thankfully no smoke at all.

Ignition System:
I've tried both internal and external coil dizzys with still no luck and I ensured my timing is aligned when changing the timing belt. I didn't adjust the timing though.

I am running this P28 with just a H23A basemap so should I maybe get an H22a1 ecu until I can take the car to get tuned maybe?

 

I have a 92 Si as well and I'm looking forward to this same swap. Do you have an sources or information that could help me with this?

 

This swap has been documented throughout HT and many other Honda forums with just a google search away. These ones are something to look at.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...tions-2341343/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/hybrid...-post-3235165/

 

Thank you

 

You need an actual tune. A basemap is not a tune. A basemap is only designed to do exactly what you stated - get the car started. If you continue driving it or attempting to go WOT you risk potential engine damage every time. Either washed out rings/piston skirt damage/bearing damage from excess fuel/oil dilution, or on the opposite end you risk detonation and piston/ring damage from a lean condition.

You are just chasing your tail swapping parts around.

 

Damn I'm an idiot. I knew that I was gonna need a tune but I thought the car would at least be driveable to at least a tuner but I was wrong. Just ordered a p13 and hopefully my car will be running afterwards. Thanks!

 

P13 should run it decently. Just remember that it's a factory ECU so it will not unlock the full potential of the H23A. The OEM calibrations are very mild. There may be a few slight lean spots because of the small differences in fuel curves between an H22A and H23A but nothing major. If you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator it may be worth bumping up the fuel pressure just a couple psi to account for any potential problem areas.

 

Ahh okay thanks for that fpr tip! I know its very minimal as you mentioned but will the small window of lean spots cause any notable issues in regards to driveability? I'm in Taxifornia so I have to refrain from using an fpr. Well atleast for just when I'm getting the car BAR'd. Otherwise, I'll be getting myself one of those now.

If anybody is curious, I'll be using a Cali-spec OBDI H22a1 ecu (37820-P13-L12).

I had intentions to buy this ecu for the sake of smog in the long run but guess I'll be getting my car BAR'd very soon now.

 

The lean spots would mostly be at WOT but it's probably not enough to make much of a difference or be detrimental. Wouldn't worry too much about it.

 

Oh I see haha. I won't be having the car to be at WOT at all until I start taking it for track days which won't be for a long time. I'll probably have my P28 properly tuned by then.