To start off, yes, I have read a number of other posts regarding this no crank issue. I believe that I am in a different situation though.

Before anybody jumps to conclusions, here is some background information about my car.

1996 Honda Civic DX Auto Hatchback
(I'm assuming 1994) Integra LS B18B1 5 speed
1994 Integra LS P74/75 ECU
1998 Civic DX engine harness
OBD2A to OBD1 jumper harness
Clutch-Brake-Gas pedal assembly from a 2000 Civic DX Hatch 5 speed

The problem I am having with my B-series swapped car is that I can't get the engine to turn over. When I turn the key to the "on" position, the fuel pump primes perfectly. When I turn the key into the "start" position, the main relay (I believe that's what's clicking I could be wrong) clicks and the starter does not turn on. I did a volt drop test on the starter, and when the key is in the "on" position, the starter receives 4.3 volts. When the key is turned forward into the "start" position, it gets 0 volts. I double checked the battery terminals and the grounds to make sure that there was no resistance in the circuit. So i'm not sure what the problem is.

The B18b used to be in a 2000 DX Hatchback (it got totaled so I took everything I could off it). I am assuming that the alternator is an OBD2B, as well as the distributor. I have went ahead and repined the alternator connector, and the connector for the distributor is the same on the 98 harness. Could this cause a problem with my no crank situation? If the plugs are the same (this is a dumb question I apologize), and the wires match up to the correct pin locations, would it still matter that the distributor and alternator are obd2b?

I do not have a clutch safety switch. Since my hatch used to be an automatic, I did connected a couple wires like I am supposed to (as if it were a normal 5 speed swap). That is my neutral safety switch. I am pretty sure before I pulled the motor out of the 2000 hatch, it also did not have a clutch safety switch. I could be wrong though.

If anybody has any idea on how I can get my civic running that would be much appreciated. Apologies for my grammar, it is 4am and I have been working on my car for over 12 hours. Let me know if you need more information. Here are some photos.I'm sorry for my lack of education when it comes to electrical components. I am currently in school for diesel mechanics- that is the only thing I know by heart.

The "auto to manual" rewire. This goes to the automatic shifter. My apologizes for not knowing the proper name.

These are the distributor plugs as mentioned. They are the same- however the harness I am using is an obd2a. I am confused here. Is this going to work assuming that this is an obd2b distributor plug?

I cannot find a home for these guys.

94 Integra LS P74/75 ECU with the OBD2a to OBD1 jumper harness

the ECU

This is the engine bay. Pretty sloppy right now. I guess this is what I get for trying to rush things.

an interior picture if anybody was interested.

 

What did you connect at your "auto to manual" conversion at the shifter ?

 

the two main thick wires right in the center of the female connector and the green-white striped wire to the all black wire I believe. I got the info on one of the threads

 

I don't recall ever having to splice a green/white to an all black. The thigh black wires, yes they have to connect.

 

Anybody know the solution? I’m out of answers

 

what guid did you follow?

 

The auto-to-manual swap.

Is that seriously the reason why the starter isn’t engaging?

 

LInk?

I know you're suppose to do something else other than do just splicing 2 wires together. Another think to check is that battery voltage as well.

What you can try is to run one end of a wire to that connector on the starter and tap the battery to see if the starter will work.

 

https://www.clubcivic.com/forum/thre...t-list.157624/

here is the link. If I did something wrong in the process forgive me.

I followed these instructions since I did a b series swap in an auto car. I will hook the starter connector to a 12v bat and see if it works. Thanks for the suggestion.

I still got to find out why the starter achieves only 4.3 volts and then loses all voltage once I turn the key. I'll run the starter wire back too try and find a spot where there could be a bad connection.

 

Ok. Starter seems to be working fine when I hook it directly to the battery.

so that means somewhere in my harness there’s a bad connection. hm.

 

I'm skimming through that link and he doesn't provide what wires to cut/splice. Best search honda-tech for a similar 5spd conversion guide.

 

Got the car to start by connecting the battery to the starter. Feels good knowing it runs.

My main guess for why the key itself won’t turn it over is because I wired my neutral safety switch wrong. I still have that 4.3 volt drain but I’m going to have a breaker on the positive terminal wire on the connector. Don’t feel like searching through the harness to find where I might possibly have a bad ground or something.

my main focus right now is the neutral safety switch. I took the old auto- shifter Column and did a continuity test. I found that when this plastic piece (I’ll show in the picture) is in a certain spot it completes the circuit (common sense I guess). So somehow I’m going to have to replicate that.

 

ok.

I found a solution and it ended up being exactly what I was going for.

The car starts perfectly if I directly hook up the positive battery terminal to the starter connector. I always wanted a push start button, that was the original plan when I bought my hatch. I figure I'm going add a wire to the positive terminal that goes directly to the starter, but in the middle of the starter I am going to have a switch, where under a push of a button a connection between the battery and the starter will be made. This will be my push-start button I can control manually.

With my battery voltage drain I am going to add a breaker on the positive terminal wire which I will also be able to manually control. I will be able to cut battery power to the rest of the car while it is off. Thus eliminating my battery drain. It makes more sense in my head I'm just bad at explaining lol.

This whole set up is sketchy- i know. It's only temporary until I have more time to really do this car right.

Thanks for the help.

 

what side of the battery did you connect the wire too positive or negative? And how did you run the wire?