Hello I've looked for a week now trying to figure out details of doing this swap
so my d16y8 spun a rod bearing and rebuilding it is not possible atm as I need it as my daily driver

I have found a shop with a d15b dual vtec it's obd2 but my question is I have obd2b and I need to know if my harness will work with this engine it comes with the ECU and a harness but it's cut for 900 bucks so doing a harness swap isn't possible or I wouldn't even be asking this question...only other thing is this engine is comming out of a auto car and mine is a 5 speed manual so will this ECU P2J-J63 work any info would be amazing before I drop 900 bucks...I know about the vtec wiring for the dual solinoid but do I use my y8 intake and stuff or?
If anyone can answer these things for me I would be greatful thanks cause everything I have found is for d15b's that arnt obd2
Oh and btw no emissions where I live so we don't have to worrie about check engine light B's I just want it to run correctly and not be a POS

 

Why don't you just buy a Y8 and be done with it ? This D15B plan that you have outlined, based on "saving" money, is a bad idea. Making it run correctly is a challenge, and an auto ECU doesn't help. You will get auto trans related codes so your check engine light will always be on. So then how do you know if a real problem arises ? Will you check for new codes twice daily ? In the end, even if you get it to run perfectly... it will not run as good as your original Y8. That to me makes it a POS. Don't go backwards just because it is an attractive price and you need your DD back. Fix it right... you will be happier in the long run.

 

The issue for me is that I cannot find a single d16 in my area for less than 1600 bucks and ordering one and having it shipped is super exspensive and always a risk...this engine is 20 min from my house comes with the harness and ECU and comes with a warranty for 30 days for 900 bucks that's why I thought it was the best option for me as money is really tight these days with the covid stuff going on and not having much work I'm very limited on funds...I just want to get somthing in there I can just hook up and go I'm not to worried about mods or anything and my check engine light was on for four years so it never really botherd me haha stupid o2 sensors....as I said I have no emissions tests here so it's not to big of a deal.....if I get a older engine I have to buy jumper harnesses and all kinds of stuff Wich equals more money and I really don't have it right now...I would rebuild mine but I don't have the tools needed like micrometers torque wrenches and whatnot.....only other thing they have with a wiring harness and ECU is the d16a non vtec but I figured that was even more of going backwards...let me know what you think I should do cause I thought 900 bucks with warranty was pretty good

 

Well its coming with the wrong ecu for what you're trying to do. Ecu is not compatible with your auto. The End.

 

my car is a five speed manual bud should have put that in the post

 

K, still not going to work. The End.

 

unless you plan on giving an explanation then dont post being a cuck my guy im here looking for people that know what there talking about and have the brain power to explain these things not for guys with kindergarten IQ to make dumb *** posts......so care to explain why it wouldnt work?

 

BEcause a bunch of dumbasses don't care for explanations, so I no longer give explanations.

 

well if someone cares to chime in that does care to explain ill be here weeding out the cucks

 

Its funny how you don't know much about this motor but want to buy it anyway...keep on weeding.

 

It seems as you don't know to much about anything yourself and that's why I made the list was to learn my guy

 

I gotta ask, where do you stay that D16's cost more than B and K series motors? Where I stay at here next to Savannah in GA you can pull motors from the 2 junkyards for less than $300 all day long.

The reason why the ECU wont work to its fullest is because, as stated earlier, it will be looking for Automatic related signal and sensors that aren't related to manual 5/6 speed transmissions. Apparently there will be some surging idle issues and the ecu will be looking for the automatic shift solenoid. The other issue you will run into is the manual ecus have a 3 slot set up and the automatic ecus have a 4 slot set up. This means that the wire harness needs to be able to plug up correctly. With that cut ecu its going to be a pain in the but man.

Buuuuuuttttttt.............. you can still run it in your car. I personally wouldn't because I have the ecus I need, but in an emergency I would use one if I had to.

There are several threads on here that talk about this topic and ways to get around the CELs you will get.

If money is an issue and this will work and fit your budget, go for it, and get back on the road ASAP.

 

Thanks for the info man I really appreciate it my dad in Ohio got me a d16y8 for 300 bucks thank God but I live in Chicago and a d16y8 is like finding gold for some reason the cheapest one I could find with 189k miles was 1300 bucks like people around here are nuts with Honda part prices but I do appreciate the information with the d15b and you are right it would have been a Hassel with that ECU and after looking the manual ECU is basically a lost relic so I gave up on the idea