Hi guys.
So I am about 4 months into a build. I did plenty of homework but any advice you have would be awesome. Please be nice.
I have a 1997 prelude sh. I bought it for $500 with a blown engine.
I know all about frm sleeves and the sh atts.
I am converting it to base. I bought a base H22a4 block off ebay. I have had it sleeved and line bored because it was missing a main cap. I bought a remanufactured crankshaft and had it lightened and balanced. I also have cp 9.0-1 pistons 88mm.
Looking for the best connecting rods. Budget for rods is $1k...any recommendations? I have an idea of certain brands but want a 2nd opinion. I plan to run high boost. Money is tight so it may take awhile to obtain everything so the build may take awhile. I am shooting for 600hp but whatever I get I get. I am looking for an aem v2 30-6060. If I can't find a 30-6060 then I will get a 6040 and make it work. I am handy with soldering and don't mind Frankensteining a wiring harness. I have no issue intermixing obd1 and obd2 parts to make it work. My only concern is the 6040 is for obd1 and I know it doesn't matter but the included basemap with the 6040 might have issues. Please correct me if I am wrong. I am buying the mini-mani from 850 fab to retain ac and Ps. I am also getting a g25-660 garrett turbo. Planning on a Flowmaster outlaw muffler. Also need opinions on intake manifold, what cc injectors and fuel rail. I'm going to upgrade all fuel lines to handle high pressure. And fuel pump. Also buying a 4p h22 polished and ported head. Already bought a t2w4 and had it rebuilt. Going with a stage 4 clutch.
Any other opinions ideas or questions please feel free to ask. I'm an open book.

Hailey

 

600hp fwd car...is just traction problem. Its not going to be fast if its only burning rubber also you should look into cooling

Intake manifold - look into getting blacktrax spacer
And then just port and polish oem manifold?

 

600hp is going to be way too much for the street as stated. If you have never been in a 400whp+ Honda then you have no idea what you're getting yourself into. 400whp is more than enough to get you into serious trouble or killed. 400whp in a 2600-2800lb car is no joke.

"Stage 4 clutch" is pretty vague. Any eBay clutches will not hold close to their advertised power, regardless of what they say. At 600hp you will need a twin disk at minimum. That's a $1200 clutch at least. You also wasted your money on rebuilding the T2W4 because beyond 450whp you run a serious risk of grenading a stock internal transmission at any time. To get near to 600hp you will need a cuff at minimum or the transmission will literally explode from the power.

You didn't mention anything about suspension or brakes. Both of which will need to be entirely overhauled and upgraded to have any hope of getting traction or stopping the car.

There's a reason why most old turbo Honda builds stop in the 350-450hp range. You hit diminishing returns very quickly after that in these cars and it gets exponentially more expensive to make a little more power.

 

For starters, unless you already have the AEM, I would nix that idea, and just do Hondata S300. Plenty of 600-1000 whp H22 cars on it, and many people able to help if you have an issue compared to AEM.
Intake manifold I would say either do a ported oem manifold, or something big like a Golden Eagle, or Gato. Whatever fuel rail you want, and probably some Bosch style 2000-2200 injectors. Rosko Racing makes a great rail and spacer kit for the ID injectors so that you don't have to use top hats or anything and it fits perfect. You are going to want a big TB, I would say 76mm or larger, plenty of people running a 90 on big turbo cars.
Rods, Turbo Tuffs should be good, or you can do some Carillos, not sure what they run currently. Make sure you are using good ARP hardware on them as well.
Tranny, clutch etc can depend a lot on what you are using the car for, street fun, drag racing, roll racing etc. A fresh rebuild with quality parts can last awhile in the 5-600 range, but again it depends on use. If you are using the car to race, might be good to look at the new Gear-x gearsets, and maybe doing a cuff, along with a properly geared final drive.