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Just replaced my transmission on my 2000 accord with a jdm low mileage on ebay. Swapped my sensors etc over to the replacement as they advised to do so the transmission would work correctly got it installed put 4 quarts started it up and put it in reverse it takes a few seconds for it to engage then it slams in the reverse gear hard as hell. Goes into drive ok checked the fluid and its nothing on the dip stick still could this low fluid be the problem why it slams into reverse after a few seconds. I used Honda dw1 another strange thing is i disconnected the solenoid in the top and it goes in reverse instantly like ummm ok lol but I know that controls shifting. I've tested all of them and they work and are in ohm specs
The BAXA AT fluid capacity is more than 4 qt. A quick search on Google or a call to the Honda shop should provide an answer. That is advisable to research the AT fluid capacity, and circulate the AT fluid for a short time until full. The dipstick will only display the capacity in the reservoir and not the total fluid quantity. The torque converter holds AT fluid, and the hydraulic pump that generates hydraulic flow pressure to enable clutch pressure when shifting gears may have been starved of AT fluid such that smooth fluid flow was not achieved, resulting in the sudden shift and slamming.
The BAXA AT fluid capacity is more than 4 qt. A quick search on Google or a call to the Honda shop should provide an answer. That is advisable to research the AT fluid capacity, and circulate the AT fluid for a short time until full. The dipstick will only display the capacity in the reservoir and not the total fluid quantity. The torque converter holds AT fluid, and the hydraulic pump that generates hydraulic flow pressure to enable clutch pressure when shifting gears may have been starved of AT fluid such that smooth fluid flow was not achieved, resulting in the sudden shift and slamming.
I believe it was 6.9 quarts its barely at the bottom if the stick now going to buy more fluid hope that helps it broke my passenger cv joint out of place and was still moving when it slammed in reverse I had my foot on the brakes.
You will need to fill the sump to hash marks and select every gear for a few moments to allow it to charge the circuits. Once you have gone through every gear, put the car back into Park and recheck the fluid, pull dipstick, wipe, reinsert, pull out and check level. Keep doing this until you get a steady reading about half way on the hash marks. Go for a drive. Recheck fluid level again.
Don't rev the engine when attempting to engage the gear, if it is not engaging then there is not enough fluid. If you rev it and there is a delay you are basically doing a 'clutch dump' but it is more violent as the torque converter will multiply torque output. Do this in 1, D3, or D4 the trans will be in 1st gear, massive torque multiplication and you can easily damage several components.
Let the engine idle, place the car in gear, foot on brake, and just wait for engagement. If nothing, place back into park and recheck ATF level.
These import transmissions are usually drained fairly well. You may have to add the full 6.5 quarts.
If the CV joint popped out or dislocated it probably was not fully inserted into the transmission. I've always found the right side short axle to be a PITA to get to properly seat and wants to pop out. When installing the axle verify that the circlip on the end has hte open end is on top(12 O'Clock position) this makes it easier to install otherwise the open ends can get caught on insertion and not allow the axle to fully seat.
You will need to fill the sump to hash marks and select every gear for a few moments to allow it to charge the circuits. Once you have gone through every gear, put the car back into Park and recheck the fluid, pull dipstick, wipe, reinsert, pull out and check level. Keep doing this until you get a steady reading about half way on the hash marks. Go for a drive. Recheck fluid level again.
Don't rev the engine when attempting to engage the gear, if it is not engaging then there is not enough fluid. If you rev it and there is a delay you are basically doing a 'clutch dump' but it is more violent as the torque converter will multiply torque output. Do this in 1, D3, or D4 the trans will be in 1st gear, massive torque multiplication and you can easily damage several components.
Let the engine idle, place the car in gear, foot on brake, and just wait for engagement. If nothing, place back into park and recheck ATF level.
These import transmissions are usually drained fairly well. You may have to add the full 6.5 quarts.
If the CV joint popped out or dislocated it probably was not fully inserted into the transmission. I've always found the right side short axle to be a PITA to get to properly seat and wants to pop out. When installing the axle verify that the circlip on the end has hte open end is on top(12 O'Clock position) this makes it easier to install otherwise the open ends can get caught on insertion and not allow the axle to fully seat.
The axle was seated properly the part that goes inside the transmission. The joint next to it on the outside I can pull on it and twist it I think it has popped out I can push it in and it goes but I think its broken on the joint. Just gonna get a used one from a salvage yard I will definitely get more fluid tomorrow from the dealer. Hopefully its just low fluid thats causing it to delay and making it slam in reverse.
The axle was seated properly the part that goes inside the transmission. The joint next to it on the outside I can pull on it and twist it I think it has popped out I can push it in and it goes but I think its broken on the joint. Just gonna get a used one from a salvage yard I will definitely get more fluid tomorrow from the dealer. Hopefully its just low fluid thats causing it to delay and making it slam in reverse.
I haven't driven it yet i need to once I get the passenger side suspension and axle back together.
Hi everybody. I have a problem. I have a 92 accord lx sedan 2.2 l. 4D light apears at time solid. And I foind oit what is the problem. But the honda repair book that I found online, calls to disconnect the 22P and 26P connector. I found where the 22P location but 26P don't show anywere. I know that some computer programs and dealers repair books tells yoi were the electrical connectors are.