Good day transmission rebuilders. I finally have the opportunity at trying my hand at rebuilding a manual transmission. I've heard the D series can be done without a press but I am going to be picking up a 12 ton shop press anyway.

I posted a couple of my concerns as well as the research I had done in the past and recently trying to get clarity on the main shaft shim process in this post/thread here.

I saw where 94EG8 mentioned you could use a crush material like solder to determine the shim thickness requirements. In another thread on a different forum I saw where the person took two measurements and did some math to find the shim thickness value. And on d-series I noticed where Mista Bone (transzex) stated he takes 2 hours to do the shim process. I don't have access to the special tool Honda mentions in the FSM. What is the best way without the special tool to find your main shaft shim thickness?

The other part I could use clarity on is, on FSM page 13-11 they show measuring the reverse pin on the left side of the pin and provide specifications. On the 89 picture rebuild, the person measures on the right side of the pin. Is that clearance spec for both sides of the pin in the 5th/reverse piece? I ask as on the left of the pin like in the photo seen below, it's less than service limit by a lot, but on the right side of the pin it's beyond service limit. I will be measuring the "window" width of both the fork and the piece but would like to know how the first measurement using feeler gauges applies to the pin, fork and piece.

Thank you in advance for any wisdom you are able to share. I suspect I will have more questions as I go being this is my first tranny rebuild and I would like to get it right.

 

Dial indicator and a vice grips with a rag to make soft jaws. Vise grip the input shaft and then use a pry bar to lift the shaft out of the case. Measure the amount of play with a dial indicator. No special tools required.

 

You can estimate the shim clearance using basic tools plus a precision straight edge (as the Helm's shows). You cannot verify the clearance without the OEM tools and dial indicator. Any methods not using them are not accurate (I've tried them to satisfy my own natural curiosity).

Measure on the left side, per the Helm's manual.

 

After seeing a little bit more on the main shaft holder that is now running 300 USD for now a days if it's even in stock.

Do you think the tool could be replicated?
I see now it's to lift the main shaft and I believe I can have a machine shop make the tool for less than it would cost to get the OEM.

What do you think?

 

You're thinking about this too much.

It doesn't seem like you're changing the mainshaft or the case. Just replace the input shaft bearing, the synchros, and if the sleeves are worn, replace those. If any other bearings are worn, replace those.
https://www.transmissionpartsdistrib...ic-crx-delsol/

 

Yes, it can be copied (should be relatively easy, it's a very simple design). Translab did a batch of copies some time ago. He might have one laying around or know of a customer that doesn't need theirs any more.

If you need any parts for it click the link in my sig or shoot me a message.

 

I was planning on getting the bearing and seal set from Syncrotech for 175 dollars.

I don't know who translab is or I would ask.

I assumed if I was replacing all the bearings then I would need to redo the main shaft shim. You only need to redo the shim if the case or mainshaft is being changed?

The transmission shifted smoothly and the teeth on both the syncros and the grey dog teeth look mint. So it seems the previous owner(s) never drove the car hard, speed shifted or did any grinding on the gears. Just the bearings are starting to show their age.

I suppose since I'm taking the dive, I should just do the whole nine yards and do up all the syncros etc and just order the master rebuild set? It's not a performance build at all so is there any advantage to switching away from the brass syncros for the carbon ones? This is for the tall geared VX transmission to go back into being a lean burn high mpg setup.

I love your about page and story Aquafina, very kewl!

 

Technically you're supposed to verify the clearance when changing anything, but I've never had bearings change it enough to warrant a shim change.

If the selector sleeves aren't worn then I wouldn't replace them for a stock rebuild. Check the gear to synchro clearance to see how close they are to the wear limit and replace if they're close.

All Synchrotech parts on my site are the same price as buying directly, but you don't pay for shipping through me and get to feel all warm and fuzzy for supporting me.

 

You say I don't pay shipping, however, I think I should.... I live in Canada my friend, least I could do is cover at least some of the shipping costs as it doesn't fit your normal setup you probably have shipping to the various states....

Thank you again for the heads up. I just got my press today, so I can be prepared for any path this transmission has me travel. I'm sure you will be hearing from me at some point.

And thank you @Bense , I did follow the link you supplied and see the pricing is even lower on one of the brands. Definitely a good resource to have on tap.

 

Eh, my mistake, shipping is not free to Canada. It will calculate it at checkout, so it will end up being about the same as purchasing direct, except for the immense satisfaction and feeling of belonging that come with being a WDR customer.

 

LoL... well you know, I can always get my money for shipping back through intense support.

Welcome to 10,000 questions.

 

Support comes with every order.

 

Just FYI, I've always had to use a press to disassemble D-series transmissions. I've had B-series boxes disassemble by hand, though. Also...I sent you a PM regarding the tools.

 

When looking at the syncro's sleeves and hubs, I am not totally sure what things to look out for.

The teeth seem to look pretty good to me, the cone seems smooth and good. And the brass syncro friction area looks like it still has deep channels. All these things seem good to me but maybe I'm looking at it all wrong.

Would you be able to enlighten me on what kinds of things I should be looking at on these parts. Here is pics below of the 3rd-4th sleeve, syncro and hub I think. Any tips will be greatly appreciated.

 

From what I can see it all looks ok. Engagement teeth on 4th are a bit rounded but are fine for a daily driver.

 

Are the engagement teeth the grey dog teeth that look like the dog teeth of the syncro? The small teeth?

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/transm...nding-1916635/

 

Thanks @Bense I appreciate the link. Good quick read. Also shows I would have gotten some of the answer by continuing into the FSM but I put it down yesterday to call it a day.

It didn't clarify the one bit on terminology. Are the Dog Teeth also sometimes called the Engagement Teeth? I'm pretty sure they are but at the same time I don't want to make an assumption and go barreling down an incorrect path based on that assumption.

 

Yes. Dog teeth are the engagement teeth, the small little teeth on the gear that are similar in size to synchro teeth.

 

Hey Aquafina, I appreciate all your help. Enough that I feel I should inform you that I won't be buying the syncrotech parts at the moment.

Unfortunately money is of heavy consideration due to this pandemic. I do hope you understand and I do hope you don't get upset. Sadly I know you wouldn't be able to give me enough of a break on the parts to compete with the pricing I was able to get. With shipping I'm in 25 dollars USD lower than what syncrotech kit charges for the kit prior to shipping. The kit I am getting is all NTN and Nachi bearings for almost half the cost.

Please understand I do wish to support both you and syncrotech but it's just not in the cards this time around.

 

No worries. You can always buy a t-shirt.

 

What's the setup in that?

Just out of curiosity, have you thought about switching your 3rd & 4th gears for ones from a DX / HX / LX / (96-00 CX) / etc? -- Some of the OEM close-ratio D setups use that 1.0666 third gear of yours. Which means that 1.0666 third gearset of yours could be valuable to someone else.

Currently:
1st: 3.25
2nd: 1.761
3rd: 1.066
4th: 0.853
5th: 0.702
Final: 3.25

------------------------------------
Modified:
1st: 3.25
2nd: 1.761
3rd: 1.172
4th: 0.909
5th: 0.702
Final: 3.25

 

For us in Canada, only the VX has the final drive, 3rd and 4th gear specialty. In USDM it's both the CX and VX. What's nice is it looks like it's 5th that has the most wear and I can get another 5th gear from one of my CDM CX/DX transmissions. It's the final drive, 3rd and 4th that are hard to come by in my area.




Basically, I'm just wanting to keep the transmission stock and rebuild the Z1 motor to marry back up to it to get the 40+mpg city/hwy.

I'm not sure why I would change out 3rd and 4th like you are suggesting. I think that would hurt my city fuel economy on the vtec-e motor.

 

No it wouldn't. Just upshift. Look at the HX ratios.

 

The tranny is a pretty rare bird here in Canada. I think I would like to keep it unmodified to retain overall value.

People in the states can grab the gear from two transmissions, and I think the CX in the states is a lot more common than the VX in either country.