When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey there, I have a 99 Honda Civic LX that Im trying to swap the motor out of. The original motor is a D16Y7 and I have ordered a replacement engine from HMotors that came and is listed as a ZC Motor. From what Ive researched its the equivalent of a D16A1 motor. My issue is that its not mounting to my transmission, and I have an automatic transmission. What would I need to do? I included a image of the block stamp
A D16A1 is DOHC 1.6L engine. Is this what you have ?
My bad, its been a long day and I was rushing when I posted this. The motor thats currently in my civic is a 1.6L SOHC D16Y7. I purchased a ZC motor from HMotorsOnline as it was listed as a replacement engine for my D16Y7. So Im thinking that the ZC motor Ive got is along the lines of a D16Z6/D16Y4 My problem is that the mechanic who is replacing the engine for me is having trouble getting the ZC to bolt up to my tranny. So I wasnt sure exactly if I needed to get another tranny or what. Car is an automatic btw if that helps.
"D" series should be "D" series... I am not sure why your mechanic is having issue with connecting your auto transmission to the ZC block. I believe it should work. Contact Steve at HMotorsOnline and ask him his opinion on how you should proceed.
I don't see your tranny next to the engine so I can't tell you what you're doing wrong. I also don't know if you have the correct zc engine for an 96-00.
I just swapped in the same engine in my 2000 EK hatchback, I replaced the original D16Y7 with the D16A long block from Hmotors. 96-99 ZC / D16A SOHC Long Block (Non VTEC) [ITEM NUMBER 30023] It should be a direct swap minus the CFK bypass and intake manifold swap. BUT the engine stamp should say D16A ! not ZC as far as I know I have had 2 of the same engines from Hmotors and they both are stamped D16A. You might have got the https://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/l...zc-long-block/ but IDK I would call and ask them.
Last edited by wunfstgsr; May 8, 2020 at 04:50 PM.
I just swapped in the same engine in my 2000 EK hatchback, I replaced the original D16Y7 with the D16A long block from Hmotors. 96-99 ZC / D16A SOHC Long Block (Non VTEC) [ITEM NUMBER 30023] It should be a direct swap minus the CFK bypass and intake manifold swap. BUT the engine stamp should say D16A ! not ZC as far as I know I have had 2 of the same engines from Hmotors and they both are stamped D16A. You might have got the https://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/l...zc-long-block/ but IDK I would call and ask them.
Ill have to grab some more pictures of the engine when I head up to the garage today. I ordered the same exact engine as you described, (https://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/c...lock-non-vtec/) so Im not quite sure why its not mounting to the transmission other than my mechanic being unsure
Bumping this with an update. Mechanic got ahold of me to inform me that he got the engine to mount to the transmission and that hes getting ready to wire everything back up. Hes just having an issue figuring out what one particular wire goes to says that it came from the old motor and hooks somewhere under the alternator.
Will be relaying that information towards my mechanic if he wasnt already aware. Pretty sure hes using the original harness, but will get a confirmation. I really appreciate all the feedback Ive been getting on this.
Will be relaying that information towards my mechanic if he wasn’t already aware. Pretty sure he’s using the original harness, but will get a confirmation. I really appreciate all the feedback I’ve been getting on this.
The CFK bypass is easier because not only does the crank sensor need to be swapped but the crank gear also which involves removing the timing belt, better to use 2 quick splice and be done with it in 5 min! OP if you don't do this the engine will never run right! it will run like complete ****!
Back with an update. Got everything all hooked up to the SOHC ZC Motor. Only issue Im having currently is the engine is running rough and if throttled the RPMs dont move what so ever. Im using the distributor from my D16Y7 but it didnt bolt up the same but it does fit however. Ive included pictures of the distributor that was sent with my ZC as its got a different plug, also included the plug from my distributor that Ive currently got hooked up.
Back with an update. Got everything all hooked up to the SOHC ZC Motor. Only issue Im having currently is the engine is running rough and if throttled the RPMs dont move what so ever. Im using the distributor from my D16Y7 but it didnt bolt up the same but it does fit however. Ive included pictures of the distributor that was sent with my ZC as its got a different plug, also included the plug from my distributor that Ive currently got hooked up.
That's the JDM distributor you cant use it.
Did you do the CFK bypass like I mentioned earlier??...
Did you do the CFK bypass like I mentioned earlier??...
Mentioned the CFK bypass to my mechanic, printed the details and showed him it. Wondering if since my vehicle is a automatic transmission if theyll be any issue.
Mentioned the CFK bypass to my mechanic, printed the details and showed him it. Wondering if since my vehicle is a automatic transmission if theyll be any issue.
Like I said if you don't do it the engine will run like horse ****.
Like I said if you don't do it the engine will run like horse ****.
Your Mech prolly didn't do it I bet you $5
Ill get with my mechanic tomorrow and findout from him. I gave him the diagrams for the ecu and such. Would the CFK bypass not being done explain why the engine is running so rough and not raising RPMs when throttled?
Ill get with my mechanic tomorrow and findout from him. I gave him the diagrams for the ecu and such. Would the CFK bypass not being done explain why the engine is running so rough and not raising RPMs when throttled?
Well yes it sounds like its running like horse **** lol get that done its very easy and then go from there.
Well yes it sounds like its running like horse **** lol get that done its very easy and then go from there.
got the car up and running with the bypass as you said. Only issues I have with the car at the current moment is trying to figure out why it wants to keep trying to overheat. Other than that, it sounds like a beast.
Ill get with my mechanic tomorrow and findout from him. I gave him the diagrams for the ecu and such. Would the CFK bypass not being done explain why the engine is running so rough and not raising RPMs when throttled?
Originally Posted by wunfstgsr
The CFK bypass is easier because not only does the crank sensor need to be swapped but the crank gear also which involves removing the timing belt, better to use 2 quick splice and be done with it in 5 min! OP if you don't do this the engine will never run right! it will run like complete ****!
got the car up and running with the bypass as you said. Only issues I have with the car at the current moment is trying to figure out why it wants to keep trying to overheat. Other than that, it sounds like a beast.
Try bleeding the radiator again!
Open the radiator cap when engine is cold.
Start the engine and turn the heat in the climate control to full blast/ high
raise the front of the car as high as you can with the jack
let the engine idle for 15 min or so until the both radiator hoses are warm/hot and there is no sign of any bubbles in the radiator. Use a funnel in the radiator cap hole to catch any fluid bubbling out and to use to pour in more coolant as needed to keep it full.
You aid the bleeding by squeaking the radiator hoses a little bit to help push any air bubbles out.
Once the fans have cycled at least twice put the cap on and lower the car and drive it around.
If the fans don't come on you may have a short to the fans in which you may have to start trouble shooting the fan switch.
If fans come on at the proper temp and you are still over heating replace the thermostat, the thermostat from the JDM engine may be old and stuck.
Repeat the steps after the thermostat is replaced.