Hey.
So I have a GSR swap with just a skunk 2 manifold and intake with a tune, vtec crossover was very noticeable at 5.5k. I had an oil leak which turned out to be one of the distributor bolts not having a bolt in it. I fixed that and the leak stopped, however I cant hear vtec crossover anymore. There are no CEL or warning lights showing that somethings wrong, I tried checking the wire connections but they were solid. I replaced the solenoid gaskets and cam seal, changed oil and filter. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

 

Perhaps you're not hearing your valvetrain screaming for some lube anymore.

 

Shouldn't I still hear the crossover a little bit though?

 

Do you feel it?

 

If you're talking about the pull, yea it feels the same as it did when I used to hear the crossover. I'm just wondering what's causing it not to have the crossover anymore and if I should be concerned about it. I was just told that my CEL might not turn if theres a problem with the vtec solonoid on since i have a custom map, i dont know if this is true though.

 

Its fine.

 

Revived. Rode in a different car with the same setup. Vtec kicked hard and feels better than my setup. Please help, i tried draining some oil out since it was overfilled a bit and now its at the perfect level for oil, checked for leaks (none) then took the car for a test drive and did some pulls but literally no change in engine tone, its just like my old motor with no vtec. Still no CEL, i replaced all solenoid gaskets, what can it be !!!

 

Oh also my fuel pump prime until after i turn the key to 2nd position like 2-3 times. Im thinking that can be a problem for vtec?

 

You said you have it tuned - any chance you can datalog and verify that the ECU is activating VTEC? If the ECU is activating VTEC, then you either have a wiring issue (the solenoid is not seeing the signal from the ECU) or you have an oil supply issue (solenoid activates but there is insufficient oil pressure to lock the VTEC rockers). Do you know if the VTEC oil pressure input was disabled in the tune?

 

I dont have a way of datalogging atm. I do know the oil pressure switch was disabled.

 

Sorry, but your previous post (#8) was a little unclear - were you saying the fuel pump DOESN'T prime every time you turn the key on? If that's the case, you may have an ECU issue. Remove the ECU from the car and open the cover. Inspect the electrolytic capacitors for bulging or leaking. Best case scenario is that the capacitors have not leaked onto the board and you can just replace them and it fixes the issue. Worst case scenario is that the board is already damaged from leaking electrolyte.

If you are not confident with a soldering iron, several reputable places like Hondata can do the capacitor replacement for you.

 

It just takes a while to prime when I put it to 2nd position. I just remove the key and put it back in a couple times, idk if this makes it prime faster or not, but I believe it would take just as long if I left the key on 2nd position.

 

The fuel pump should start priming immediately when the key is in 2nd position. If there is any delay or irregularity with when the pump starts priming, I would not hesitate to inspect the ECU and replace the capacitors if the board is not damaged.

 

I checked the ecu, everything seems fine to me. Some of the stuff is tilted but I got it like that and everything was working well