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Broke the threading of the valve cover bolt (see picture)
Bought the replacement part (90014-PM3-000).
Is it a simple unscrew of the hex nut (what the red arrow is pointing to), and swapping out the old part for the new? Or will I have to loosen all four bolts so that there's equal pressure amongst all four corners? Don't work with cars or engines at all, so this is a first for me. Sorry if it's a dumb question. I don't want to mess up the rocker arm or anything like that. Anyone replace this part before? Any tips, walk-throughs, or advice on what I should expect?
The fortunate thing for you is it's basically a stud you broke the end off, not broke a bolt in a hole.
So.... You don't have to drill. You can go to the wreckers and get another post. The one thing I do remember about those is the rocker rod can lock them into place so you usually have to loosen all the rocker arm assembly bolts to get some of them out and in. As such you will want the helms manual so you have the torquing sequence of all the bolts as well as the torque strength.
I have a few of those bolt/studs in my parts trays on my work bench as I too once snapped the end off one of them. The little acorn nuts are only supposed to be torqued down 7 ft-lbs. So really, it is VERY easy to snap the end off those.
Another word to the wise.... Seeing the sludge buildup in your head, you might want to do a better job keeping up on your oil changes. It's that sludge that kills motors over time and is from not changing your oil on time.
The fortunate thing for you is it's basically a stud you broke the end off, not broke a bolt in a hole.
So.... You don't have to drill. You can go to the wreckers and get another post. The one thing I do remember about those is the rocker rod can lock them into place so you usually have to loosen all the rocker arm assembly bolts to get some of them out and in. As such you will want the helms manual so you have the torquing sequence of all the bolts as well as the torque strength.
I have a few of those bolt/studs in my parts trays on my work bench as I too once snapped the end off one of them. The little acorn nuts are only supposed to be torqued down 7 ft-lbs. So really, it is VERY easy to snap the end off those.
Another word to the wise.... Seeing the sludge buildup in your head, you might want to do a better job keeping up on your oil changes. It's that sludge that kills motors over time and is from not changing your oil on time.
Hmmm... So what you’re saying is I don’t have to replace the entire bolt? (Circled in red). I only have to replace the threaded part AKA the “stud” or “post”? (Blue pointed arrow). If that’s correct, I am still unsure how to do that exactly..
I was surprised to see the sludge because I perform oil changes every 3,000 miles religiously. Is that not frequent enough? The car is 28 years old with almost 350,000 miles on it so I thought the buildup was just from age or something.
Ah, I think I understand it now. Alls I have to do is unscrew what’s remaining of my post (blue arrow) from the cylindrical shaped piece that is connected to the hex nut (red arrow). Maybe use some needle nose pliers or a hammer and nail..
No, that whole thing I am basically considered a stud being it's male on both ends.
You will have to replace the whole thing. I was saying you are fortunate it's that design and not like the D16Z6 where it's a bolt you screw into the rocker arm assembly that breaks in the assembly and you have to drill it out.
In your case you can easily unscrew the stud from the assembly and replace with a new one that the top threaded part isn't broken off.
Broken Valve Cover Bolt. Rocker Arm?
