Hey everyone first post here. Just like to get some info on this car. It seems to be rather rare and i cant seem to find much information on it at all. Its a 1997 accord with the 2.7l v6. The transmission is acting funky. First gear into second seems to have a long pull like hanging on a clutch too long in a manual. 2nd into 3rd seems fine but 3rd into 4th seems too quick amd makes rpms drop alot and have to give it a little extra gas to get it up to speed. Then once its in 4th it will hang at 3k rpms at 70mph. The torque converter does not lock up until the car has ran at operating temperature for more than 20 minutes. I have replaced coolant temp sensors and i am doing thermostat next week as it seems to not warm up for about 15 minutes of 70mph driving. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

 

2.7 was a three year model and an early OBDII type of system. Out of 13 years of Accords and only three of those being the C-code V6, It's not surprising you are not going to find much on them. Out of the CB-CG cars the 95-97 C-V6 cars probably only accounted for 5% of Accords
You may have better luck with help from the Sterling/Rover 827/Acura Legend forums as they used the C-code V6 variants and transmission.

Verify the transmission fluid is full. If a higher mileage transmission, verify the fluid is correctly filled by starting the engine, placing the gear selector in every gear for a few seconds to charge, then placing the transmission into Park and turnign the engine off. Pull the AT dipstick out, wipe it clean, reinsert, pull out and check level. It should be within the hash marks of the dipstick.
Verify that the shaft speeds sensors on the transmission are clean. They are magnetic pickups, pull them out, wipe them down and reinsert. If they are filthy they will cause erratic or late upshifts.
One is located on the left side cover, can be accessed behind the left wheel when turned fully locked. Other sensor is on top of the transmission next to the fill bolt, might have to remove the air intake to access it better.
With the ignition in the II(ON) position, engine off, back probe the TPS sensor. It should have a linear voltage change from .5-4.5V and back down. Any breaks or erratic voltage changes will affect how the transmission shifts. Map sensor you will need a vacuum pump to test it, remove it from the intake and apply vacuum to it. Should see a linear voltage change do it in 5lb in/Hg incriments to verify that the MAP is not faulty.
Not sure on the C engine, but on the F and H engines there are multiple thermo sensors, gauge, engine temp(ecm) sensor, and then a couple more for the rad fan relay/timer. Verify that the thermo sensors you replaced were actually for the ECM(thermo).

Engine tune greatly affects transmission shift quality. This includes sensors, back probe sensors and use a compatible OBDII scanner/code reader and look for any stored codes. Not all codes will pop the CEL/D4 warning lamps.

Shift solenoids are located on the bellhousing.
Pull the connector off and run battery power directly to each solenoid. You should hear an audible 'click' on and off. If no clicking or very low sound, the solenoid may be dead, or gummed up. You may also want to pull off the solenoid and verify that the screen is not covered in junk, clean off and reinstall. If you were careful in removing the solenoid the gasket filter can usually be reused.
There is a throttle valve solenoid that is mounted to the top of transmission case, verify its electrical connector is clean and tight. Not sure if it can be readily serviced/cleaned.

Verify the engine is in good working order before blaming the transmission.
Verify the pedal to throttle cable is correctly adjusted, it should have no pretension but no slack either. This would affect drive-ability if the throttle is not opening when the pedal is moved then you will lose throw. Flooring the pedal and only getting half throttl, actual, will greatly affect how quickly the car will move and how fast the transmission will upshift.

If you are having downshift issues, the VSS on the F/H engines is what controls those shift points. I would suspect this is the same for the C-code engines.

 

Ok i will do some of the things you have suggested. some have already been done. Engine is is top running condition no problems there. I have checked the transmission fluid but i did not check it the way you suggested. all temperature sensors have been changed and i am doing the thermostat next week. This is a 243k mile vehicle so i expect some issues but would like to straighten out what i can. I will get a probe and multimeter and check all the connections i can. It shifts normally for the most part when its warm but takes forever to lock in torque converter i just did a 30 mile round trip and it looked up at about the 28 mile mark. The VSS has also been replaced. Along with plugs wires cap rotor. Should i do a transmission fluid change with that many unknown miles on the fluid. It is not burnt but is not pink or red either.