The fins on my compressor wheel on my turbo is bent, what size do I need to replace? 60 trim...? I’m looking to upgrade it to a billet wheel, which website sells legit ones?

As I have it apart I’ll be replacing all the seal/bearings and clean it up a bit to get it ready for a new setup.

 

You would replace it with a Garrett 60-1 compressor wheel or posibly one of equivalent ind/exd and shaft dia. size. "60 trim "alone can be misleading. Trim calc is a ratio that would cover a few different turbos.

 

I’ve been reading and filling my head about turbos, I’m not a big expert on them but I’d like to know as much as possible. I know I’ll know a good bit once I tear into this turbo 😆.

This turbo starts to spools at 4K rpm. Not too bad but I’d like to upgrade the wheel and see where if it starts to spool quicker.
Ive been reading a lot on the Garrett silver surfer too or tryin to find as much available info on the net, and I know it’s one of the best ones to spool up quick and maintain top end.

 

The 60-1 is a vintage wheel design that really focused more on top-end flow and wasn't ideal for high pressure ratios (high boost or high-altitude operation). It has quite a narrow operating range aka narrow "map" compared to the 'newer' T04S-based 'T61'. Think low boost, high-volume engines like V6's and V8's that move a lot of air at relatively low boost levels, rather than high-boost 4 cylinder engines. It's rated for around 60 lb/min based on the compressor map I found, but only up to 25 psi at sea level (less boost if you operate at any altitude).

Then newer tech turbos like the GT3582R, Holset HX40 and Borg Warner S360 came into play and really outclassed the 60-1 in terms of map width and/or peak flow. For example a Borg Warner S257 SX-E or GTX3576R will spool faster, and make more power with a smaller compressor wheel. Now the second gen EFR and Garrett G-series stuff make some of the above turbo's look archaic and inefficient for their size...It's simply a progression of turbo design and technology.

Not knocking the turbo you have, just providing some additional info so you can gain some understanding of the characteristics of each. This turbo thing can be very complicated and quite simplistic at the same time.

 

Cliff notes/pointers.
-The 60-1 is "old school". Turbo tech has come leaps and bounds in the past decade.
-If you want tech info on the Silver Surfer then just call the person that sells it and they can answer all of your questions.
-"Best ones to spool up quick and maintain top end"...that's debatable and more application specific. It isn't one size fits all so to speak there.

^all correct, though I thoroughly enjoy the Hifi 60-1, there are just much better options w/ tech in 2020.

 

Very good info. Yea this turbo, along with the mark 2 turbonetic wastegate is old school af 😆.

This setup I had for 12yrs that came with the car on a stock Jdm b18b eg hatch. Was really fun driving it for it being my first turbo car. 2nd gear just burns the tires like 1st gear, you have to feather the pedal to keep it from burning the tires, but then 3rd gear is where it all catches traction and speed. On the street I was neck and neck with a saleen mustang running 110-115mph on the highway 🤣.
So I hit the 1/4mi Atlanta dragway on street tires and fastest time I ran 13.2 ( beat a stock turbo VW hatch and a camero v6 on boost but lost to a 5.0 fox body mustang he ran 12.8 in a 1/4mi, he lucky I didn’t have slicks &#128518So after the 4th run the head gave out, the screw the rocker sits on had stripped the threads. So I built a poor mans type r in a gsr and been running all motor since then. And now I decided go back to boost and use my old setup.
But I’ve upgraded from Blox log manifold to a autoworks mini ram w/ 44mm tial wastegate I bought on here from user: GEN2 LS.
As I’m test fitting the manifold on with the turbo I knew it would sit low and I was goin to have to have to redo the exhaust DP and drain line. No biggie but I didn’t know the manifold would sit so low but I can make it work. The DP use to sit next to my half core radiator now sits closer to the block and my DP has a 90* bend then extends straight down now hits my block and bolts to the turbo housing are wayyy off. So the issue is I’m having a hard time finding a t3 4 bolt DP with a 2 bolt flange to hook up to my test pipe... most ive searched come with the 4 bolt flange and no 2 bolt flange to test pipe ( probably cause you have to get one welded because of the angle of the flange welded to the test pipe...my flange moves freely on my test pipe). Seems like my only option is to cut and weld my old DP and fit it to my liking.

The turbo I’m replacing all seals and bearings and the stock compressor wheel bought from TheShodan. I figured it’s probably best I just rebuild the turbo and run it and then save up for a silver surfer. I might just try to sell it and put towards it...