Advice on JDM B20 leakdown results
I bought a high compression JDM B20. I put it on an engine stand and adjusted the valve lash. It was out of spec on all valves (loose).
Next, I did a leakdown test on the cold engine with correct valve lash. Crank pulley was secured so it didn’t move when each cylinder was tested at TDC.
These are the results
cylinder 1 = 51 of 75 psi, 32% leakage at intake valves
cylinder 2 = 50 of 75 psi, 33% leakage at intake valves
cylinder 3 = 60 of 75 psi, 20% leakage at exhaust valves
cylinder 4 = 74 of 75 psi, 1% leakage past rings
I think the test should be performed on a hot engine, but I didn’t want to install it only to find out it is no good. I think acceptable leakage is 10% max. Do you think a hot engine would be less than 10%?
Thanks in advance for your consideration.
Next, I did a leakdown test on the cold engine with correct valve lash. Crank pulley was secured so it didn’t move when each cylinder was tested at TDC.
These are the results
cylinder 1 = 51 of 75 psi, 32% leakage at intake valves
cylinder 2 = 50 of 75 psi, 33% leakage at intake valves
cylinder 3 = 60 of 75 psi, 20% leakage at exhaust valves
cylinder 4 = 74 of 75 psi, 1% leakage past rings
I think the test should be performed on a hot engine, but I didn’t want to install it only to find out it is no good. I think acceptable leakage is 10% max. Do you think a hot engine would be less than 10%?
Thanks in advance for your consideration.
I bought a high compression JDM B20. I put it on an engine stand and adjusted the valve lash. It was out of spec on all valves (loose).
Next, I did a leakdown test on the cold engine with correct valve lash. Crank pulley was secured so it didn’t move when each cylinder was tested at TDC.
These are the results
cylinder 1 = 51 of 75 psi, 32% leakage at intake valves
cylinder 2 = 50 of 75 psi, 33% leakage at intake valves
cylinder 3 = 60 of 75 psi, 20% leakage at exhaust valves
cylinder 4 = 74 of 75 psi, 1% leakage past rings
I think the test should be performed on a hot engine, but I didn’t want to install it only to find out it is no good. I think acceptable leakage is 10% max. Do you think a hot engine would be less than 10%?
Thanks in advance for your consideration.
Next, I did a leakdown test on the cold engine with correct valve lash. Crank pulley was secured so it didn’t move when each cylinder was tested at TDC.
These are the results
cylinder 1 = 51 of 75 psi, 32% leakage at intake valves
cylinder 2 = 50 of 75 psi, 33% leakage at intake valves
cylinder 3 = 60 of 75 psi, 20% leakage at exhaust valves
cylinder 4 = 74 of 75 psi, 1% leakage past rings
I think the test should be performed on a hot engine, but I didn’t want to install it only to find out it is no good. I think acceptable leakage is 10% max. Do you think a hot engine would be less than 10%?
Thanks in advance for your consideration.
Since you called out specific valves for leaking,I assume you are hearing them leak from their respective areas.
Looks like a rebuild is in order......
Since it's valves, you could possibly get away with hand lapping the valves. That would mean pulling the head and replacing the head gasket but it's still a lot less parts and work than a full rebuild.
Also, typically 10-15% is considered okay on most engines except full time track cars. Track cars, they tend to rebuild constantly to be 5% or less. However, what I've read is you are normally looking for a variance of greater than 15% between cylinders. If they all have X loss (typically past rings) the engine is still considered okay just worn to some degree.
Also, typically 10-15% is considered okay on most engines except full time track cars. Track cars, they tend to rebuild constantly to be 5% or less. However, what I've read is you are normally looking for a variance of greater than 15% between cylinders. If they all have X loss (typically past rings) the engine is still considered okay just worn to some degree.
Additionally,he called out specific valves, which indicates to me that he is hearing the air escaping from the exhaust or intake manifold.
That is never considered ok.
As for a 10% only or less, I disagree with you. An older semi tired but still good running motor can be 15% as long as it's past the rings and still be a solid daily runner. 10% or less tends to be a brand new engine or track car stats where 5%-10% is the typical thresh hold depending on the venue.
Also, he's doing it on a cold engine as such the percentages will be higher.
Leak Down Tester
Originally Posted by wikipedia
Leakage is given in wholly arbitrary percentages but these “percentages” do not relate to any actual quantity or real dimension. The meaning of the readings is only relative to other tests done with the same tester design. Leak-down readings of up to 20% are usually acceptable. Leakages over 20% generally indicate internal repairs are required. Racing engines would be in the 1-10% range for top performance, although this number can vary. Ideally, a baseline number should be taken on a fresh engine and recorded. The same leakage tester, or the same leakage tester design, can be used to determine wear.
The other part never asked or clarified, what order was the testing done. Or are we just assuming the testing was done properly?
I say this as at first I went the wrong order and of course valves were not closed... Once I did #1, crank 180, #3, crank 180, #4, crank 180, #2 I got accurate results.
And lastly, from what I've researched, beyond just the baseline bit, is you do the test multiple times and average your results to get a clearer picture of the test(s).
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