I was in the process of removing the cylinder head bolts in the loosing sequence. Got all 10 loosened but the first bolt to start with was pretty rough coming out but it did. Certain that the thread is screwed it only goes in a few turns and it gets rough after that. I was looking at that super expensive timesert kit for hondas I noticed it says 1 hole is 29 mm shallow and the other ones are 40mm is this the right kit has anyone used this before? I've used a timesert kit before in my Toyota Camry no stranger too it just making sure I need the right kit. Its just one hole that's messed up all other came out fine.

 

Did you re use the original bolts?

You should always use new head bolts or ARP studs if you can afford them.

 

I was just removing them to get the head done and replace the head gasket I've ordered new bolts from Honda just need to know if this kit will work for me

 

you might want to try a thread chaser/cleaner first, not a tap

 

ok cool where could I find those at

 

Found this on another forum is this correct M10 x 1.25 threads

 

That should be the one.

 

never used these before how does it work

 

I believe just like you would use a tap, except the cleaner doesn't actually cut the threads

 

basically screw it until it stops

 

basically screw it until it stops

 

yeah, it reshapes threads that are curling and cuts debris out of threads but it's not shaped to actually cut in threads into metal.

 

What's the length on the chaser?

And if you're getting new head bolts anyway, just grind off a bit of an old head bolt and make your own chaser .... for free.

Google and YouTube University will show you how to do this.

 

That one thred doesn't look to bad no threads came out with it assuming that's a good thing but I'm sure its damaged a little

 

Just finished a head gasket on a D16Z6 last week. New head bolts, etc. and going by the book. During torque down, the threads came right out of the first hole. Looked just like a Slinky. Oops.

In your case, the question is now, will those re-shaped threads hold under torque?

Ultimately, I did pop for the Time-Sert kit. Since I figured, "if one went, others will probably follow", I did all 10 holes, just in case. The kit's expensive, yep. But it does work.

 

That's what I'm worried about will it hold or the threads reshape. Just hate that kit cost almost $500 can't find any used ones.

 

Uhm, ya, $500 is more than the block is worth. Just use a tap to clean up the threads.

Steel screws in aluminum castings are not stressed anywhere near their yield or fatigue strength. The strength of head bolts/studs is irrelevant when fastening to aluminum blocks and you can reuse them without issue.

The female threads in the block, on the other hand, are heavily stressed. I think you will find that when you chase the threads, you remove very little material - because it takes very little damage to make a screw difficult to turn. If you remove a lot of material, I think you have to consider your options: reducing the torque on that screw, or scrapping the block, or using one of the helicoil insert kits mentioned above.

 

Probably have to go timesert if this doesn't work I've used it before in my camry where some of the bolts pulled out from the block and it hasn't been a problem since. I'm just gonna make a chaser with one of the other good head bolts.

 

A TimeSert is stronger than the original threads in the block. Fixing it properly with a TimeSert kit should solve your problem.

 

I used a helicoil kit ($30) with a new head bolt for a headgasket replacement a few years ago. I was able to drop in one full sized helicoil and then another one that I trimmed to 3/4 of full length directly on top of the first one into the block after drilling and tapping. I also gave the helicoils a light coating of red thread-locker to help keep them in place. Worked great until I sold the car 30k miles later.

 

This is exactly my plan for helicoils. I have 2 different ones to do, one for the tranny mount on my '07 Si and one to do on the engine mount bracket on the Z6 engine block.

I figured the red thread locker would make it pretty much the most secure from loosening, vibration etc. The only other thought would be JB weld and then oil the threads on the bolt and thread it in to dry the helicoils. Figure red thread locker is the safer of the two and you can chase it after to get any seep through out before you do the bolt.

 

After I installed the helicoils and knocked off the tangs I used compressed air immediately afterwards to blow out any metal shavings. I waited 24 hours to make sure the red thread locker dried (cured) fully. I did not use a thread chaser following the 24 hour cure time but it's sound like a good idea. I would use compressed air after the thread chaser to blow out metal shavings. Also, as per service manual use a light coat of oil on the head-bolts when installing.

I've inserted helicoils by themselves without thread-locker and never had an issue with them backing out. I've never used a Time-Sert though I've read they are much better in situations where the bolt will need to be removed and reinstalled often. However, this should not be the case for a head gasket install that is performed correctly. Time-Serts are very expensive though compared to helicoils.

 

Just an update used the arp thread chaser on 2 holes worked great got new bolts from Honda and they screwed in perfect saved me $500 🙏