Ok here is my problem. I've got a 97 HX that I just replaced the clutch everything went back together nicley but when it came to bleed it slave cylinder I can not get a pedal even after going thru about a quart of dot 3 fluid. I cant find any leaks from the master to the slave cylinders but I did notice when I was checking to be sure the slave piston was seated correctly in the throw out bearing arm that the arm is pushed to the passenger side of the trans and that I can push it by hand to the drivers side. It is like it should be releasing but it's not any clues

 

can you let us know how you did the bleeding process?

Also check your floor board/ under clutch pedal too make sure it hasn’t leaked behind the clutch master cylinder cause that’s what happens to mine but it slowly leaked out.

 

Used the brake bleeding method. I pumped (used my hand because the pedal stays down) held it down then wife opened bleed screw release bubbles and closed repeat but always have air.
also didn't notice any leak inside behind pedal or firewall

 

How many times have you pumped the clutch and opened the bleeder screw?

Does the clutch fluid go down I’m the reservoir?

it takes awhile to bleed all the air out, you got to make sure that the bleeder screw is closed before you bring the pedal back up, and then pump the clutch like 5-8times while bleeder screw is closed, then on the last pump keep the pedal down and open bleeder screw, then close bleeder screw and repeat the process.

Make sure you keep the clutch reservoir full of DOT3/4 fluid to the top line, check each time you open/close the bleeder screw. Don’t let it run low on fluid or it’ll suck in air while your doin the bleeding process.

 

OP, are you even using a clear container 1/2 full of fresh brake fluid and clear 1/4" hose...attached to the bleeder nozzle?? Sounds to me that you're just pushing fluid out into open air while opening the B/N. WRONG METHOD.

 

Yes that is the way I've been doing it pumping 5 times . I've been thru about 6-8 full reservoirs not letting get quite to the bottom. I have been using my brake bleeding setup for this which is the quart container with a hose that goes to the bottom with it filled (at start) 1/4 way with fluid. Iam now wondering if my if when I slide the trans back in something moved because when I pull the boot off the slave cylinder it looks fully extended already and I can push the throw out bearing arm both ways easily. And the ball sets snug in the perch.

 

If your questioning if something went wrong with the transmission while sliding it on then it’s probably best to to slide it off again and recheck and see if everything is in order.

it shouldn’t take that much refilling until the pedal starts to feel actual pressure.

 

Since the clutch fluid reservoir is smaller than the brake fluid reservoir, you have to make sure it never runs low. A few pumps of the clutch pedal will literally empty the reservoir. You almost need a 3rd person that will keep it full of fluid while one person is pumping the pedal and another is closing the bleeder valve when all the air bubbles are gone from the clear tubing. Make sure the tubing from the B/V and the container isn't too long. I usually make mine no more than 15" in length. You can elevate the bottle with shoe box or something similar.

 

The release arm should not move very much by hand when the slave cylinder is removed. You should be able to move the release bearing away from the clutch pressure plate but it should make contact and stop moving in the other direction (toward the passenger side of the car) with the release arm being essentially centered in the square opening of the clutch housing case. When the slave cylinder is properly functioning, basic line pressure should keep the slack out of the release arm travel and keep the release bearing in contact with the clutch pressure plate.

 

Sorry for late/early response I go into work a 3pm and off between 3-6 am. I tried to use my phone to get pictures through the release arm hole but couldn't tell much but throw out bearing is centered for whatever that's worth. Thanks for the info on where that arm should sit I wasn't sure on that. While at work my wife went ahead and bought new clutch and slave cylinders she said she noticed dried gunk on the master cylinder behind the clutch pedal. (Damn I Love That Woman) so I will try and get the parts put on this weekend and see if that helps. If not I will pull the trans and see if I did something stupid like put the cluth disc backwards . Thanks to all of y'all for the help and ideas hope to get it on the road this weekend.

 

I had a similar issue with the clutch master cylinder as well. Look up "ADLER" master cylinder on Amazon/Ebay for replacement. It's actually a Genuine Honda part without the factory pricing.


Make sure to get the gasket behind the CMS as well. factory part # 46928-SF1-000

 

Just wanted to thank everyone for the help. It is fixed it was the clutch master cylinder that was bad. I replaced both cylinders anyway but it was definitely the master cylinder the dried gunk stopped the fluid from leaking but air still got by. Also just in case someone else has a problem with bleeding the clutch I learned another way ( most might already know) it is more like reverse brake bleeding , of course start with full reservoir and hose in the container with fluid then open the slave bleeder then have someone push the pedal down and hold it, close the bleeder screw then have them let up on the pedal repeat until no air bubbles. Only took me 3 reservoirs full and about 20 - 30 mins. Again thanks to all of y'all for the help you saved my car from small explosives

 

glad you got it fixed. Bleeding out the trapped air is key (along with good working parts).