Hello HT,

My first Honda build! Previously built DSMs, an ‘04 STI, and the last 13yrs has been Supras—wrenching almost 20yrs.

I found the CRX Si locally about 20min up the road on FB MarketPlace. It was $1,500, it still had the D16A6 in it, and included a lot of used aftermarket parts. Parts included consisted of: B20V engine with GSR trans, Skunk2 intake mani, Skunk2 UCAs, couple of intake pipes & filters, and rear disc conversion w/BBK.

Below is a couple of the builds I did before jumping into a CRX.



2JZ: Eagle/JE, HKS, crower, etc.


1.5JZ, stock head & block


814whp, built 2JZ/V160 hardtop


604whp, stock 2JZ/V160 targa top



The new project!


Last owner of the Y49 included a B20V he never installed w/GSR hydro trans.

Next posts will be the progress.

 

I began with the intent of keeping it a “budget” project, but random tidbits of OCD hit me from time to time. Now I’m just trying to stay within a reasonable budget. This project was only to take a break from the Supra as those parts costs have become outrageous.


Previous owner said it suddenly stopped running one day and he let it sit for 5 years. I decided I wanted to use the B20V he included with sale, so the D-series came out.



The whole D16A engine was sludge, and oil drained like thick black honey.





Excuse some of the annotated images. I had this build going on FB.



Initially I was going to drop right into the CRX, but decided to tear it down instead for inspection.




There was no severe issue found throughout the B20V engine.



B & D engines overwhelmed the work space fast, and I acquired more shelving to move my JZ parts away.



Helped a friend move who gave me these shelves.

 

I imagine these were originals.



Interior smells like pet dander (they had cats), so carpet and seats will be replaced.



Luckily I already planned on removing A/C but would’ve liked this to stay in one piece. Seem to go for a lot on EBay.



Pulled the CRX into the garage to work away from the sun... Florida shows no mercy. I wanted to remove everything to restore the brake booster (appearance wise), and power wash the bay.




Other than a couple scuffs here and there from an intake rubbing, and other random jobs previous owner did, it’s in fairly good shape so I won’t be repainting it.



Well, guess I’ll hit all of these too.



After the wash I put the car back outside to keep the wife happy so she could park in the garage. And I worked a little on the suspension.



Suspension out.



Basically every single bushing appeared original and was dried and cracked out beyond usage.



For $250 shipped, it seemed the logical choice over Auto Zone replacements.



In fact, the blown out shocks were parts store AFM replacements that didn’t last long.




Prev owner also included Skunk2 coil sleeves and I tossed them onto the new Skunk shocks.

 

Wife left on a business trip for a few weeks so the CRX comes back into the garage.

 

Throughout the build I’ve yet to find any rust which has been a pleasant surprise. Seems every other CRX I found had it bad in the rear arches or along door sills.


Header included with B20V (4-to-1), I understand would not clear OEM crossbeam. So I ordered a clearance sale Innovative crossbeam on EBay.




This was the condition of both the rear drum trail arms as well as the rear disc trail arms. I ordered bushings for the disc trail arms and scrapped the drum ones at metal scrap yard.




Surprisingly, I had no interest on the rear AEM BBK and took it to the metal scrap yard.








New rotors & pads from Ebay.

 

I got a kick out of this... it’s been awhile. Location likely explains the rust-free condition of the CRX.



Decided to hop into the trunk for the first time and happy to see it was extremely clean.



This has honestly been on the back burner bc I’m not sure where the best place to buy a rebuild kit.



Midway, I took the bare block and head to the machine shop for inspection and cleaning. All checked out good, and I received it back and began a slow reassemble.



I’m reusing the stock B20 rods & pistons. I had the machine shop press in the ARP hardware. This CRX will not see boost or high-rpm. It’ll be a little cruiser.



Ebay had a clearance sale on a bearing & ring set consisting of OEM B20 rings and King bearings. The Kings main bearings were fine as well as the rings, but the Kings rod bearings were unsat.



I turned to ACL RACE bearings. I mic’d and plastigauged all journals and checked out good afterwards.








ARP head studs installed.



Head on. One thing the machine shop pointed out was that it already had Skunk2 springs & retainers.

 

There were almost 10 thread repairs done between the head, block, and transmission.



Started to look like an engine again.



Had a feeling I wouldn’t reuse the old clutch.


After getting flywheel resurfaced I ordered an OEM-style clutch due no future plans of power increase.



Before installing the hydro trans, I opened up the case to look for debris, damage, or shavings. The fluid had drained clear, and no abnormalities were found.



With my Innovative engine mounts also came the kit to reuse the CRX cable. I have heard many mixed reviews on this route, but figure I give it a shot and can always convert to full hydro later.



Fresh and clean.

 

OBD-0 dizzy remains fully intact, and OBD-1 jumper successfully spliced onto OBD-2 dizzy.



I’m using an OBD-1 ECU, and I understand an OBD-2 dizzy can’t be utilized w/o modification. Wasn’t sure if OBD-0 dizzy is worth anything, or if a local would need it, so I used a jumper harness vs cutting its wiring.



Dropping this in solo was challenging. It required constant loosening and tightening of the mounts, and also readjusting the chains and strap.



Luckily, no new scratches or dents—solid.


Next was to tackle the OBD-0 harness and start replacing some clips & pigtails.



The OBD-2 harness that came with the B20V was in “okay” shape, so I figured this would be the donor.



Aligning signal & ground wires appropriately.



Vtec solenoid and O2 sensor need wiring still.


Being the CRX won’t see circuit or drag use, I went with a cheap wheel. Knockoff of a knockoff I suppose.



Same theme continued with tires and bought Ebay tires. FWIW, there’s a really good documentary on YouTube regarding tire companies and material acquisition and processing to final product.




Wheels are 15x6.5”, +38 offset. Tires are 205/50/15 Accelera brand.



Paused here for almost 2x weeks to focus on cleaning and reorganizing garage. Especially with the next phase being interior.

 

Great work on everything, looking forward to more.

 

Thank you, Lude. Have a few more updates being uploaded now.

 

While pausing on the Y49 CRX, I continued to look online for various parts I needed. During that search an opportunity came along.


I searched all over CL, FB, and Ebay, for affordable Honda seats that would compliment the interior and be period correct. Fair shape OEM CRX carpet and panels was even harder.



Official PARTS CAR! While doing my EBay daily search I found a well kept CRX just 3hrs away. After phone calls and negotiations, I was on my way to pick it up.



He did not paint lower rockers bc his plan was to spray some rust preventing liner underneath but he lost interest in the project. Side skirts were included.




It’s tempting to keep this whole CRX for another project but I promised the wife that the Y49 was primary. Garage is pretty full, and selling the Supra is not currently an option.



Leather door panels with power windows.


SiR cluster? I’m not familiar with Hondas yet.


Well that’ll solve the seat problem in the Y49.


Jackson Racing SC



Some random CRX trim.


Among this was also an Integra Type-R countershaft & 1st gear. The prev owner of the blue CRX gave me his parts stash he collected over 20yrs.


Among the spare parts bin from the blue CRX was a Fluidyne radiator, which I put in the Y49.

 

I find it funny you bought knock off Spoon wheels and your parts car also came with the same knock off Spoon wheels haha. What a haul on the spare parts/aftermarket parts from that parts car. It is always hard stripping down a clean parts car that could be cleaned up itself but the goal is always one super clean car. Are you planning on selling the JRSC or installing it?

 

One clean car is the goal! Especially after reading up on Y49 rarity. I was slightly upset about the wheels bc that would’ve saved me some cash on that end. I’ll sell the JSRC after I inspect it—just rather have fewest moving parts in Y49 engine bay.

 

The sheer amount of parts he gave me was overwhelming at first. I’ve since reorganized my garage for a 3rd time. Now I’m setting aside time to research what I can and what I cannot use. My wife will be away several more weeks, so I have time on my side.

Do I swap the parts I want from blue CRX into Y49, then take the Y49 parts and put them back into the blue one... and then sell blue? OR! Pull the engine from blue to keep as a spare and sell blue as a roller?


LS/Vtec which prev owner says is built—we’ll see. It’s an OBD-0 setup utilizing an Ostrich tuner on a socketed PR3 ECU and included some chips.



Yeah I won’t be using this at all.


I’m not entirely sure I can use this being the crank pulley has no clearance by the frame rail.



I legit put these at my trash can thinking they were destroyed from mold. Again, I don’t know much about Honda parts but read that these are sought out. So I googled on how to save suede from mold.



Debating now on swapping over the seat belt setup from the blue CRX to the ‘89 Y49 so I can use these beautiful suede panels.



Something seemed different with this climate control so I searched online and realized it’s a JDM piece.



Another find in the blue CRX parts stash revealed BNIB Mishimoto hoses!



Slapped those same hoses on to wrap up the coolant system finally.



Coolant system is finished.


BNIB 550RC injectors, however IDK if it would be overkill on the B20V even w/a fuel controller. Inputs are welcomed on this.



Skunk2 Pro Race 68mm TB, to which I believe this won’t be necessary and my B20V swap already has a 64mm TB on it.



How Y49 sits now while I work thru my options and start stripping out the blue CRX.

 

Jesus you lucked out on both CRXs.... nice build

 

Preciate it. It’s been a fun project. Newer cars just don’t have the same personality.

 

More updates!
Did a massive cleanup under carpet and behind panels.

 

Replacing the old carpet

 

Last of updates for now.

 

And some more updates. Changed up some of the lights and installed the seats and red stitch shift boot.

 

What a fun project! The blue shell was sold for $900 which is less than I wanted, but I wanted driveway space again. Once the Y49 CRX is squared away for daily driving it’ll be sold to a friend in Maryland.


I never noticed these until I was cleaning up the shell for sale.



Fender brace mounted on yellow





EBay gauge pod holder for $18 seemed like a steal.



Fitment was great



Gauges in



Skunk2 cam gears on



1320 timing belt guide