2000 civic b16 swap need help and this one is going to be a ruff one
Let's start this off whith hello please be God himself.
long story short as I can make it I bought a first gen b16a with these mods
jg edelbrock intake
crower cams,spings,rtn ect
eagle rods
Wisco pistons
venom hi flow with a port matched jdm H series TB
arp studs/bolts top and bottom
and tune up parts plugs wires dizzy water pump belts ect
b16 trans
anyway I know the motor I know the car it came from 99 4door obd2b car same as mine. I've drove the car so I know for factoids its was A1. Anyway I buy it he drives over I drive it park ****** my motor d16y8 everything worked drove fine. I ****** the b16 motor trans mounts fuel line ecu jumper hanresses linkage exhaust oil catch can ect. Everything from one car to another.
well alls good get it running and all but its kinda sluggish in the climb of rpms so I drive it and it has no power no wavos at all and dosent want to go past 5 we adjusted FPR it was slightly high but no different other than it will rev out if ther is no load.
but under load it's like everything I have just to get to sixty and it will not accelerate up hill. but if it's a long down hill slop it will get up to 80 pluss no prob al long as I'm only giving at most 10%throttle I know because I was running a live diagnostics on a p2p ecu I have I'm running the p28 that was in the other car but being obd1 I cant do that with the p28 the p2p will run it for 15 20 mins or so b4 I have to put the p28 back in because it boggs out and dies.
we have checked it all iat was reading -40 had code for a few things so we go to changing the engine harness
Come to find out someone instead of using a jumper harnes for the engine to dash/ecu being it's an 2000 obd2b car jumped and spliced
( HARDWIRED ) THE ENGINE AND DASH HARNES
so I've swapped the dash to an 96-98ex and have 2000 engine harness no cuts tape nothing nowhere. Proper jumpers for dizzy and ECU all grounds are ground clean and tight my timing is dead on check fittyleven times. Fuel pressure is at about 39 40 psi at idle and goes to 44 45 WOT like I said Reeves great sitting still no load but driving I cant really give it much throttle or it boggs its super slow like geo tracker on 3 cylinder slow and dosent really wanna rev past 45 to 55 rpms and if I'm up higher in speed 60 or so more than 10 percent throttle will start making it jump choppy back and forth and full throttle just boggs unless I'm down hill it will climb in speed at WOT. I am also getting like 10mpg if that helps also yes the tach speed vteck everything is hooked up and I'm not getting any Cel codes the check engine light wont go off tho I've tried to scan the p2p and I've tried to just the obd1 port on the passenger side and it wont flash at all just stays lit I've rested the ecu witht the 7.5 fuse under the hood and disconnected the negative and let it sit I've alos started the car warmed it up reset it after warmed up and then started it and let it idle for 15 mins or so till the fan kicked on to try and let the fuel management system relearn everything me all the machanics at honda all my homies that mess with cars and people who claim to be honda vets have tried and to no avail
I've seen a few threads on the issue but none of them was describing exactly what I'm dealing with but one and when I clicked it the page is gone.
long story short as I can make it I bought a first gen b16a with these mods
jg edelbrock intake
crower cams,spings,rtn ect
eagle rods
Wisco pistons
venom hi flow with a port matched jdm H series TB
arp studs/bolts top and bottom
and tune up parts plugs wires dizzy water pump belts ect
b16 trans
anyway I know the motor I know the car it came from 99 4door obd2b car same as mine. I've drove the car so I know for factoids its was A1. Anyway I buy it he drives over I drive it park ****** my motor d16y8 everything worked drove fine. I ****** the b16 motor trans mounts fuel line ecu jumper hanresses linkage exhaust oil catch can ect. Everything from one car to another.
well alls good get it running and all but its kinda sluggish in the climb of rpms so I drive it and it has no power no wavos at all and dosent want to go past 5 we adjusted FPR it was slightly high but no different other than it will rev out if ther is no load.
but under load it's like everything I have just to get to sixty and it will not accelerate up hill. but if it's a long down hill slop it will get up to 80 pluss no prob al long as I'm only giving at most 10%throttle I know because I was running a live diagnostics on a p2p ecu I have I'm running the p28 that was in the other car but being obd1 I cant do that with the p28 the p2p will run it for 15 20 mins or so b4 I have to put the p28 back in because it boggs out and dies.
we have checked it all iat was reading -40 had code for a few things so we go to changing the engine harness
Come to find out someone instead of using a jumper harnes for the engine to dash/ecu being it's an 2000 obd2b car jumped and spliced
( HARDWIRED ) THE ENGINE AND DASH HARNES
so I've swapped the dash to an 96-98ex and have 2000 engine harness no cuts tape nothing nowhere. Proper jumpers for dizzy and ECU all grounds are ground clean and tight my timing is dead on check fittyleven times. Fuel pressure is at about 39 40 psi at idle and goes to 44 45 WOT like I said Reeves great sitting still no load but driving I cant really give it much throttle or it boggs its super slow like geo tracker on 3 cylinder slow and dosent really wanna rev past 45 to 55 rpms and if I'm up higher in speed 60 or so more than 10 percent throttle will start making it jump choppy back and forth and full throttle just boggs unless I'm down hill it will climb in speed at WOT. I am also getting like 10mpg if that helps also yes the tach speed vteck everything is hooked up and I'm not getting any Cel codes the check engine light wont go off tho I've tried to scan the p2p and I've tried to just the obd1 port on the passenger side and it wont flash at all just stays lit I've rested the ecu witht the 7.5 fuse under the hood and disconnected the negative and let it sit I've alos started the car warmed it up reset it after warmed up and then started it and let it idle for 15 mins or so till the fan kicked on to try and let the fuel management system relearn everything me all the machanics at honda all my homies that mess with cars and people who claim to be honda vets have tried and to no avail
I've seen a few threads on the issue but none of them was describing exactly what I'm dealing with but one and when I clicked it the page is gone.
Last edited by Bustedrusted; Feb 25, 2020 at 05:42 PM.
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