My goal here is just add to the plenty info out to help alleviate a possible headache or two as this is still the primary forum popping up for "google anything honda." LS VTEC is still happening in 2020, some of us older guys are starting in the grassroots and like the challenge of keeping things more "period correct."

8-Feb-Decided to throw a VTEC head on after my LS dyno'd 120whp 100wtq. Fair I suppose.

Initial Parts:
OBD1 B18B1 (150psi compression across the board...meh rebuilding a block on the side right now)
99/00 B16 Head ported by JG Dynamics
Type R Valve Springs all the way around
Ferrea Flat Valves
GSR Cams/Adjustable Cam Gears
New OEM Honda P72 Oil Pump
GSR Water Pump/Timing Belt
Felt Pro B18 LS Headgasket(I know I know but you can't beat the Autozone lifetime warranty)
CCC Racing LS VTEC Kit (DO NOT BUY!!! More to come) CURRENTLY running -6 line running from oil pressure port to back of head; did not use a sandwich plate

Electronics:
00 Civic EX (OBD2B) Already had the VTEC wiring in the factory harness)
OBD2B-to-OBD1 Jumper Harness
Refurbished w/new board OBD1 "P28" type ECU(set up for LS VTEC)
OBD2 Distributor (8-pin-to-10-pin jumper)

FIRST AND FOREMOST...searching forums, threads and youtube for specific item content is TIRESOME. GO TO AUTOZONE AND BUY THE HAYNES! It's worth its weight in GOLD. Don't ask, just do. The wiring diagrams to torque specs will save you so many headaches....even though still I've been fighting 2 weeks to get VTEC to pop!

There are two types of "NO VTEC" guys:

#1 The "I have a VTEC equipped vehicle and have been popping mad VTEC but now my VTEC stopped working" guys

VS

#2 The "I've never had VTEC, don't know wtf it sounds like but I bought a VTEC head and I know its supposed to pop somewhere....and I wanna go fast" guys

There is a bit more on the table for 2nd those guys to check in general. The diagnosing "NO VTEC" is so abundant that you'll lose yourself. All you see is multiple "o-ring under the cam cap, check your oil level, bang your pan out, bypass your pressure switch, clogged filter etc...solid info but VTEC not engaging....what next?! Start digging.

Somebodies Top 10 was very helpful:
-Engine Codes (check em/fix em)
-VSS (it needs to work)
-Oil Pressure (check it at the front port; No more than 7psi at 1k & 3k rpm THEN rev to 5k & jump the VTEC solenoid; check for 50-60+ psi)
-VTEC O-Ring/Spool filter (my idiot self clogged mine with copper spray! clean/change oil)
-Tach/ICM
-Temp/ECT Sensors
-VTEC Pressure Switch
-Oil Level
-TPS
-Wiring
-ECU (need a chipped ECU for your VTEC setup) - If you're comfortable, have the tuner eliminate the pressure switch in the tune like the JDM engines; trust me if you don't have the right oil pressure it won't engage, anyway!

Good info but if you just bought a head from someone(again, 2nd group), there's some additional items you need to check!

Limited info; ORIFICES as in MULTIPLE: There are 3(4ish) orifices that might require your attention:

-Infamous o-ring under cam cap 3
-Intake/Exhaust orifices near the cam gears(they have o-rings that go around them that sit down in the cam; not at the top)
-The block o-ring(sitting between #3/4 cylinders) that nobody really re-iterates NEEDS TO STAY(they don't say remove it either). However, in any "how-to LS VTEC thread," everyone assumes its just common knowledge. It's not! I had a friend I trust tell me to remove it like the H22/mini-me guys and I had to pull it all apart just to throw it back in, luckily I didn't start the vehicle. There wasn't anything rock solid saying leave it be and why. Apparently the head flow characteristics are different for the B-Series.

The manual made checking the TOP 10 items a breeze for me, just buy the tools...you have a honda, you will use them eventually, I promise. I ULTIMATELY wasn't getting enough oil pressure to the head! There is no code for that, especially when you have a new VPS. The -4 fitting from CCC Racing was TOO small and after a trip to pep boys to build my own -6 setup wala...free at last! I'm really only throwing this out there cause absolutely NOTHING pops up but a purchase link when I google CCC Racing LS VTEC! Now this thread will pop up too dammit. I had 3 weeks of vacation and this damn thing took up all three weeks checking continuity to re-wiring, swapping ECUs, dumping oil everywhere, spending a couple hundred $$ at the honda dealer(Honda is really proud of there damn parts ie. prices). In all fairness I might've read somewhere that when you do a new oil pump -6 line is ideal and sometimes -4 kits work with older pumps, if someone can confirm, cool. I am also running straight from the oil pressure port next to the oil filter. I did not use a sandwich plate.

I'm sure I missed some stuff, if anything else is relevant for 2020 throw it out...I can't lie, after weeks of driving a VTEC-less LS/VTEC when it popped around 5k last night it was amazing lol *rant end*

EDIT: Just returned from the tuner...I now understand the craze behind VTAK....

**UPDATE**
48 hours later...

30 year old block + high flowing B16 head / 8ks of screaming eagles = Pistons rings on the way out :-) build fresh b18 OR buy hi-comp B20 and just slap it on is the next debate

This thing is so fun to drive. Eating oil and all lol