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I got a del sol with original b16a2 and I never realized until recently that my dizzy is from a different model Honda. It’s a hitachi vs what I believe it came with USDM oem -TEC part #30100-P2T-004. I also noticed that the dizzy is pretty much fully retarded. However, the car seems to run and idle fine. Starts right up and never gives me any problems. Acceleration is decent and low to mid range power is decent as well for the little b16. I also hear the VTEC crossover @ 5600 but I feel like the vtec is lacking. My questions are; 1- i understand different model dizzy’s can technically work, but is it possible that it can affect things like vtec performance if it comes from a non vtec model? 2 - is it likely that because my dizzy is fully retarded the engine runs ok but maybe lacks performance in vtec due to little advanced timing? 3 - considering the retrofitted dizzy only has one bolt holding it on and oem replacements are pretty much nonexistent or crazy expensive, is there any aftermarket dizzys that are worth the $? New or reman? From what I’ve read the answer is no but wondering If any new options may have popped up recently. If I absolutely have to I’ll suck it up and buy a new one if I can find one or keep searching until I find a used a oem. Thanks guys!
Did you check the ignition timing with a timing gun?
Have you checked eBay for a used OEM?
No I haven’t checked the timing but I plan to soon. Problem is I’ve never done it before so I’ve been doing research with how-to videos but it seems a bit daunting. A valve lash check is in the works as well (also something I’ve never done before)
As far as used OEM I just haven’t found any yet on eBay - I’ll keep looking. Those dizzys were only for 96-97 del sol vtecs and 99-00 civic si. But I’m gonna keep looking, just went to the junkyard today and saw a ls dizzy but gonna wait for a possible exact match.
No I haven’t checked the timing but I plan to soon. Problem is I’ve never done it before so I’ve been doing research with how-to videos but it seems a bit daunting.
Setting the ignition timing is not difficult but you need a timing light. Start by setting the timing and then go from there.
If you are running a one bolt dizzy, that means that you are using a non vtec dizzy, which some people say, causes issues. Try to obtain a vtec dizzy and see how the car drives.
If you are running a one bolt dizzy, that means that you are using a non vtec dizzy, which some people say, causes issues. Try to obtain a vtec dizzy and see how the car drives.
yeah i think it may be affecting vtec crossover. Like I said car runs great just seems like there’s not much happening aside from louder engine noise past 5600. I’ve changed the gaskets in vtec solenoid and it wasn’t clogged or dirty so I don’t think it’s that. Spark plugs look fine and cap is In good condition. It’s probably the dizzy and/or the fact that it’s fully retarded. I had the timing belt changed a year and a half ago and maybe they weren’t 100% on time maybe missing a tooth? Well anyway, even if a new dizzy doesn’t help it’s still peace of mind knowing it’s bolted up correctly with the right part. I’m just gonna check the timing and buy a new one from a reputable manufacturer because where I’m from 90’s Honda’s aren’t that popular and the dealer doesn’t have it (and if they did they want $600.). I wonder if the “Cardone” brand is any good?
You really need to get a proper distributor on that engine. I have not seen any aftermarket distributor work well... at least not for long anyway. Since the OE housings are discontinued, the next best thing to do is find a used one and replace the ICM, Coil, cap and rotor button with new OE parts and run it. I suspect that your ignition timing is so far off that VTEC is actually working mechanically, however, you cannot tell because of how much power is missing from the improper distributor/ignition settings. I suggest properly fixing the distributor and see where you are then.
You really need to get a proper distributor on that engine. I have not seen any aftermarket distributor work well... at least not for long anyway. Since the OE housings are discontinued, the next best thing to do is find a used one and replace the ICM, Coil, cap and rotor button with new OE parts and run it. I suspect that your ignition timing is so far off that VTEC is actually working mechanically, however, you cannot tell because of how much power is missing from the improper distributor/ignition settings. I suggest properly fixing the distributor and see where you are then.
aww man that’s gonna be some $$ for a damn distributor but I guess it’s better knowing it’s quality oem parts than having it not work properly or break and be back to square one smh. I really appreciate the help/input guys because I’m learning as I go. I’m trying to attach some photos to show you As you can see it looks to me that it’s pretty much all the way retarded. But like I said the car seems to run fine to me but I don’t have much of a frame of reference being that I’ve never driven or felt another b16/18
Just a couple more photos One bolt holding this thing in. Sad I never noticed until changing the o-ring which was bad. Good news is it fixed the leak. Now I have to check the timing which I’ve never done before smh. You would assume the “Honda Specialists” at the shop I brought it when I first bought the car would have mentioned this to me when changing the timing belt. I’m assuming this is an LS distributor? Yes I know there’s a zip tie in one of the bolt holes but it snapped off when i first went to check things please forgive me lol. But this will be replaced soon ASAP just gotta get the right parts
That looks weird altogether. When I ran a non vtec dizzy on a vtec head, it was mounted upright. It seems that yours is mounted incorrectly.
Can you do something? Mark where the dizzy is and what wire goes where, then position the dizzy upright, then reconnect cylinders 1 to 4 correctly and see if that corrects the issue.
That looks weird altogether. When I ran a non vtec dizzy on a vtec head, it was mounted upright. It seems that yours is mounted incorrectly.
Can you do something? Mark where the dizzy is and what wire goes where, then position the dizzy upright, then reconnect cylinders 1 to 4 correctly and see if that corrects the issue.
yeah I’ll give that a try in the meantime but I’m working on getting it replaced as a whole ASAP.
I think you’re right. It resembles an accord distributor more so than an integra. Smh what a mess
yes don't over tighten the new cap onto the housing.. just snug, those things CAN and WILL break off in there..
now a lot of people will tell you that aftermarket is junk, but in my case I had to go aftermarket. Since Honda doesn't make the hitachi distributor for my HX anymore! I went through a lot of distributors and you DO NOT want to buy cardone, car is done, is the saying.. they are pure junk.
I went through every major brand they had on rockauto, all were terrible.. so what did I do? Found a brand spectra at advance auto. It works well, all I used it for were the built in sensors (that I did test with an ohm meter to make sure it was to spec other brands were not even close!!), but replaced everything inside with Honda.. the ignitor (icm), the cap, the rotor, and the coil! Has been working great going on 4 years now. so using that brand as a shell, I've not had any more trouble.. just thought you'd like to know what others have done when they have to use the aftermarket
edit: advance auto doesn't list a spectra brand for your b16a but here's the link to their site.. here's their link https://ecat.spectrapremium.com/products/TD84
and I did find it at amazon AND rockauto!! Rock didn't carry this brand back in 2016, they do now..
the reviews at amazon do point to the cheap icm's/ignitor being the problem.. that's why I replaced the one it had, with a Honda.. yes I paid $$$ but it's better than being stranded on the side of the road.. that's what the other aftermarkets did to me before.
Last edited by oneheadlight; Feb 21, 2020 at 12:27 AM.
B16a2 dizzy questions
Re: B16a2 dizzy questions
